Since the tree is only about 3 years old it should be one of the cultivars that is DED resistant, but as Bill mentioned get someone familiar, like the horticultureist from your counties Texas A & M Cooperative Extension Service office, to look at it.

mommacude, First where are you in general located (i.e. South East Arkansas) and what has the weather been doing? Windy and warm? Dry air? Drought? Lots of wildfires? Also do you know what kind of soil you have? If you dig a hole and fill it with water, how does it take to drain? Reason for asking all this is that it gives us some clues as to what's going on. So to make sure I am correct to this point. You planted a larger tree 5 days ago. Watered first day, and then got rain, but no water for three days after that, and I assume warm conditions since you list Zone 8. Assuming that is correct, then I personally don't think over watering would have done this much damage in 5 days. I think you are right in that it got too dry. The roots have certainly not extended into the surrounding soil to any real degree in 5 days, and those root balls don't hold that much water. Watering a large leafed out tree is a fine balancing act for the first few months, that can be very difficult. I planted a 10 Gallon Sugar Maple a few years ago at the end of May/early June, I ended up slow watering it with gallon juggs that had pins holes in them, 1.5 gallons every other day for about 2 months, and it still got leaf burn. This is where the often recommended technique of sticking your finger in the rootball daily really pays off. If it feels dry, or only slightly moist, water it. If it feels wet do not. You will figure out in just a week or so how much and how often to water. Now what else can be done? No fertilizer. It will probable leaf out again, and you can probable still have a nice tree out of it. But you will have to water as needed, not by a time schedule. Lastly, if the tree does not survive due to lack or water, or over watering, then that is not the nurseries fault, and I would hope you would not want to return it anyway. Arktrees

My hubby took a while to agree to some chooks too. We convinced him with all the benefits and the fact that they will be my domain as far as cleaning out and feeding. I have no doubt he will be glad to have them once they are here. We are hoping to get about 3-4 to start with and maybe a couple extra later on when they layers start to get a bit older. We have some wormwood growing in the backyard at the moment. For others interested in chooks I have found Jackie French's Chook Book really useful reading and she has lots of useful tips. I was wondering about clipping the wings. Is this necessary with all breeds? I will let mine out of the enclosure to roam the garden occasionally and to use in the 'chicken tractor' but don't want them flying over the neigbours fence.

Regarding Imidacloprid Drench, soil inject, or trunk inject. Large trees must be proactively treated, before EAB causes noticeable damage. And if already showing decline, one must apply god-sent Tree-age product until tree recovers. Imidacloprid product must be applied just after ground unfreezes, which is usually April for us in the Midwest. Since peak uptake is needed between end of May and First of July, because Imidacloprid only kills Adults feeding on leaves, and Borer larvae's first two "Instar" stages. So Imidacloprid must kill off all young stage borers, before they reach damaging 3rd and 4th instar stages which Imidacloprid can not kill. Anyone in fear of killing off Honey bees or Earth worms, which settlers both brought over from Europe in 1700's. Must remove any flowering plants under treated tree that might also uptake drench or soil inject. Another proven option is applying Organic Tree-azin and Aza-sol produced naturally from India's Neem tree. Presently these are only approved products available in Canada. All the above only lasts one year, but Tree-age G4 can be purchased and applied by any common tree owner that lasts two years. If anyone would like to learn how to trunk inject themselves, using assembled parts costing under $2 bucks. Just contact me! Know that ALB Asian Longhorn Beetle had been totally eradicated here in Chicago. Since ALB spreads so slow, compared to EAB. Public should also be aware that 99% of Nursury trees arrive today with root flare already too deep in rootball. And require "Root flare excavation" before dug out of field, or installed on parkway. Also be aware that all young trees require "Formative structural pruning" to retain "Apical dominance" completed every few years until age 15-20. And also understory fruit trees with "modified crowns". Enjoy!