Proper etiquette when asking builders for a bid?
elisalinscott
9 years ago
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9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Etiquette when a project collapses
Comments (11)Just an update. I spoke with the GC on the phone today and it went very well. I had already sent him an email letting him know the project wasn't going to happen and offered to pay him for his time. It was an very amicable conversation with no finger pointing. We discussed where the project derailed and what we could have done better. If course, he politely assured me that I didn't need to pay him anything. Then he mentioned that he started a new service about a year ago that offered design advice and project pricing for a flat fee of $1200, but it didn't apply to me since we had no such agreement. I told him that sounded entirely reasonable and I would be happy to pay him $1200. Oh... and his son might want to buy my lot. LOL. So other than the check, I do plan to write him a nice letter with it and perhaps include a gift certificate. He definitely gets a good reference from me. Since I have two friends actively looking for a builder with the same credentials, I may end up sending business his way as well. When I think of how badly this could have turned out, either with a bitter "divorce" or worse yet, an unscrupulous builder like the horror stories told so often on this forum, I am very happy with my choice of GC. Professionalism isn't always easy to find in the building industry. And who knows, I may build a house some other year....See MoreHow can bids from builders differ?
Comments (8)Great points above. Sensing a trend that its mostly about Overhead and Profit which might be true sometimes but certainly not always. If I had to bid on some plans right now, it would be a higher than typical price as I currently have enough clients who will work in my preferred Cost Plus arrangement. My overhead is extremely low but I also use preferred contractors who cost more. Building a good home is a combination of the right products, right labor, and right knowledge. There are increasingly stringent building codes which are creating an ever widening gulf between builders as I see it. Minimum building codes are pretty easy to achieve but it will cost more money. Many of the things that make a better home cost more money and its impossible to specify all the materials, labor and knowledge in a set of bid documents. Does your detailed specs and plans include how to protect your freshly poured slab on a hot day or cold day? Type and # of anchor bolts. 3" washers? Does the Radon pipe just stub under the slab somewhere or is it tied to a sub slab drainage to daylight? Very cheap insurance that I would not install if it wasnt in the plans or specs. Do the plans call out the type of sill sealer? I would never use an off the shelf version with what I know. How about sheathing fastener schedule? Its pretty cheap to use the newer APA recommendations but might have my carpenters skip it on a bid job. Just how detailed is that wall section of yours? Ive never had one to bid on that I would feel comfortable following to a tee in the field. How about sloping window pans for the rough sill? What type of flashing tapes? I find its best to mix brands depending on application but wouldnt want to waste my money or time on something I wasnt getting paid for. A 12 SEER unit could easily outperform a 16 SEER unit depending on what HVAC sub you go with or how much you babysit them. Surely you have the Manual J in the specs and blower door test goals? Its surprising the difference you might see between houses in this area in terms of comfort, energy efficiency and durability. Do the plans spell out how to meet ASHRAE 62.2? I dont think I could build a house without meeting this minimum ventilation standard but I know I would use a drastically different way to achieve it on a bid job. It wouldnt cost me as much and would not work as well as the slightly more expensive system I would recommend for most clients. Fixed bids are very likely to omit some important details that take place below the finished surfaces. In addition to what others have mentioned (and many more) the difference in prices will surely reflect a bit of this discrepancy between builders too....See MoreWhat to Specify When Asking for Custom Cabinet Bid
Comments (11)pull-out breadboards? treatment of any display space such as wine rack, bookshelves, decorative panels? treatment of plain panel sections on cabinet ends?--I wish I'd had it in writing that our guy would use good-looking grain, not too busy. I won't even share a photo of a place where it looks like he thought a nasty grain board would be on inside, not outside of the end panel, sigh. handling of grain in symmetrical sections? I know that cabinet guys can't always match up the oak well, but in big expanses of oak, there can be obnoxious wild grain that needs to be used as a positive feature, not a negative eyesore. Can your guys match-up as best they can for slab or center "Shaker" panels from same general grain kind of board--look at these large drawers, where one set has good match and one has less good. (At least there isn't a real stinker piece here.) (Note: My dad was an old-school carpenter and he would have insisted that cabinet guys treat grain as a feature in symmetrical cab faces.) maximum use of space vs. sizes of cabs? We have a few places where we could have gained functionality if measurements were different. Be sure that you keep track of the sizes and expectations as the evolution of plans takes place. I think that I can explain why the inconsistencies crept in, but I'm not the only one who should have caught the error that cost me dearly in one instance. I think it was the result of a measuring error that was caught and compensated for but only in one instead of in two places where it mattered; a different error was in consequence of a misguided effort to add symmetricality. Both were total surprises to me at time when we couldn't go backward to fix the errors and now I'm married to the errors, stuck with 3 banks of lower cabs that cannot accept a pull-out unit of a sufficient size. Ah, me....See MoreEtiquette (?) of making a lowball bid
Comments (33)"Lowball" is a cliché term and I don't really give it any thought. You're conducting a business transaction and one side wants to get way more than it's worth to someone and someone else wants to get it for way less than what someone else wants. Items are worth what someone will pay at the moment. If I offer someone a price and they're "offended" (yet another cliché term), then that's THEIR problem. I can't insult someone, and nobody can insult me. Only they or I can be insulted by our own feelings and actions. Too bad people don't understand that they're words. Just letters put together. But today we're so conditioned to take offense whenever we can. Normally, if something is fairly priced and it's something I want and am willing to pay the price, I don't haggle. I don't haggle for a hobby. I'll ask if they will take less, or offer something I'll pay, or both but it's only a couple negotiations. Then I'll walk or vice versa. When I've had garage sales or something I normally put absolute bargain prices on them and people can make offers and I'll accept or reject. Sometimes I'll tell them to stop back later and I'll probably take less then if it's early on and I'm thinking I should get more. At one sale when I was getting rid of one of my Crock-pots, it was brand new, in the box. I had received it as a gift and no way was I going to use it. Had already tossed the ones I used and replaced with Nesco Roasters. This was a LONG time ago now and I put a $5 price tag on it. Retail was about $40-$45 but I wanted to get rid of it. This lady starts whining "well, does it work?" I had just finished turning someone else down on an offer so she should have known I'm not going to play games. But I said it's brand new in the box as you can see the box hasn't even been opened! It SHOULD work since it's brand new, never opened so never used. Then she started with, "well... will you take TWO dollars for it?" I said no. I'll have more than $2 worth of fun smashing it with a sledge hammer and use the cord as a backup for something else. The cord alone will cost at least $10 to buy. "Will you take $2.50?? I couldn't resist. I told her it's at least a $40 unit and you know it and the price is going to $7.50 in exactly 30 seconds and reached for the masking tape and marker. Then she offers a check. I looked at her and wrote $7.50 on the masking tape and started tearing it off. She whipped out a fiver right quick. Then... as she was walking away, she asks... "If it doesn't work, can I bring it back?" I broke out laughing and said this ain't Wal*mart but you can bring it back. I won't give you your money back but feel free to bring it back. One guy was picking up some things and he just broke out laughing. Came up to pay me for the stuff and said "I like your style." A couple ladies who overheard it commented about how some people just don't want to pay anything do they? I just said I think for some it's just a hobby. And when their purchase was totaled I rounded it down for them and told them it's my "nice person discount"....See Moreelisalinscott
9 years agoelisalinscott
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9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoProperty Serv, LLC
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9 years agoGIRSH DEVELOPMENT INC
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