Oh my! When I first looked at the pic, I didn't realize the brick was part of the same building! I think I would paint the stucco a color to blend with the brick and leave the brick alone. I think the off-center window is part of the problem which the shutter is trying to fix, but it looks too low and a tad wonky so it's not helping that much, plus the color is different from the rest of the house. I would paint both doors the same color to try and play up the symmetry, but then I would add something along the patio to make it clear that the the door on the left is the entrance...either a hedge or a row of plantings. I would also want something centered under the window and shutter to complete the facade like a fancy bench with matching ceramic pieces on either side. Otherwise, I think you have to completely abandon any attempt at symmetry, get rid of the shutter and use larger plantings in front to help break up the facade so the asymmetry looks more intentional.

I think she made a very bad call in design and should have told you what would be showing. If the cornice is rebuilt, I'd change the design since making it longer (vertically) may make it difficult for a tall person to exit without ducking. An easy, immediate fix is to lower the cornice until it covers the railing, but you'll have a gap between the top of the cornice and the ceiling. I'd do that first to check the final height for head clearance and if it's too low then building a taller cornice isn't going to solve the problem. If the order was for a cornice to the ceiling then she's at fault in design and owes you . Blaming you is not putting the customer first! IMO, she owes you either a new cornice (if lowering it doesn't work) or vertiglide. Remember that using an outside mount vertiglide is going to require a deeper cornice, so she'd probably end up having to replace both if she goes that route. "You wanting an inside mount" has NOTHING to do with it. She was in charge of measurements and should have known this would happen. If they mess up on measurements then they're responsible. That's why you let them come in and do all measuring. If you prefer an inside mount, then a cornice can be built to go over it. BTW, the cornice doesn't have to go all the way to the ceiling. It depends on where the bottom of it needs to start and the overall depth needed to balance the window treatment. If you want more feedback, post over in the discussions section.....see below. Here is a link that might be useful: Discussions

Chjim, yes! I borrowed a bunch of books from the library in search of ones re: English cottage and country styles, and his was one that popped up in my search. I'd never heard of him until I read his book. It is just amazing. Ellendi and jlc believe it or not, removing the FP would not solve many issues. There still isn't much of a wall across from it. It's really the darn entryways that are the issue. Holly, I've measured and measured, and it just wouldn't help to narrow it to the point that would help the sofa and still provide access to get into the DR. I could possibly use Annie's portiere idea and put a curtain up on just one side, though . . .it might work. I am thinking of putting a portier up in the entryway doorway, at least, because while sitting on the sofa now, the view is of the front door . . .does not feel like a cozy thing to be staring at! Beverly, I am so thankful for your floor plan ideas. I'd thought of moving the bookcases on either side of the sofa, but thought I would be making that wall too heavy and emphasizing the narrowness of the room. But, I can see how it would help to break up the large expanse and also lessen the crowding of the piano. And, no, there is nowhere in the sunroom for the bookcases. The walls on the other side are the same as where the little tables are as you may have guessed, 2 walls are windows, and the third has built-ins that are too narrow for books. Jlc, thank you for your suggestions. I bought some poufs recently from Target (big sale!) but they are too big for the room. With the skirted furniture, wall-to-wall carpeting, etc. they were just too much. So, I will have to try some other ones that are smaller scale. (The new ones live in our TV area now.) Interesting idea about angling the bookcases-- I will have to try and see. I am sorry about your room. :( I hope you can get it to feel right. Have you posted it here and I missed it? Funky, yes, the bottom shelves are where we keep most of the books for the younger children, so the tables couldn't live there now, as you said. Olychick had a great idea to use a console table to solve the lighting problem. Furlow Gatewood also does something neat-- he puts these little paddle things on his bookcases to hold lamps. And you're right, it takes a lot of talent to pull off a room like his, which I clearly do not have! I have tried the club chair by the FP (we used to have two) and it was just too big . . .but I like the idea of the loveseat where the chair is, esp. if moving the bookcases works out. Hee, hee about the rustic charm of the fireplace! I wish it were rustic in the dreamy sort of way, but you're right, at least the bones are there. Olychick, that is a great idea, about using the console table. As you said, it would make the space seem more cohesive and solve the lamp problem. If the bookcases are 11" deep, do you think the table should match that depth? You are all very kind not to mention my elephants in the room, namely, my very overstuffed furniture which I did not buy for this house. But, while I said I can't replace them now (which is why you kind people didn't suggest it), I do think they, esp. the club chair, are a "big" problem. What do you think of this as my short-term and long-term plan (long-term because of $)? (1) Move the bookcases to either side of sofa. (2) Buy console table to go behind sofa, maybe the same depth as bookcases (11"). (3) Add a pair of lamps to table and artwork behind sofa. (4) Add some artwork to walls where bookcases currently are. (5) Replace sofa and chair with something that smaller scale. I'd say same size sofa, smaller chair (not as deep or wide), but both with low-profile arms like an English roll arm for sofa and maybe chair-- or a pair of slipper chairs instead. (6) Redo fireplace: paint and/or new mantel, surround. (7) Refinish h/w floors; still not sure about rugs (where they should go and which direction they should run). (8) And, of course, accessories in the form of pillows, art, etc. Thanks so much, everyone!

I’m a fan of bottom up top down if they work for the window and accomplish what you need. I hope a window treatment pro weighs in. I’ve always wanted them and when I finally could afford them they were not a good choice for a number of reasons.