Should I cut my roses before tomorrow’s rain?
Andrea zone 9b
14 days ago
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BenT (NorCal 9B Sunset 14)
14 days agolast modified: 14 days agoAndrea zone 9b thanked BenT (NorCal 9B Sunset 14)Andrea zone 9b
14 days agoRelated Discussions
Should I cut the top of my rose off?
Comments (9)A couple of questions, what rose is this and is it own root or grafted? Also, how deep is that mulch around the rose? Is there much more rose underneath it? I brightened up the photo so it's easier to see and marked the three places to cut, I think, that third ones really hard to see. Start at the red line and snip it off at about a 45 degree angle about 1/4 inch above the bud eye. Look at the center of the cane. If it looks moist and a greenish white or creamy in the center it's OK. But I have to say that one, although nice and fat, looks iffy because the cane has died back awfully close to it. If it's tan or brown and rather dry looking go to the next line, yellow, and cut again. That one looks like it's good but if not then go to the green line. At that point you aren't going to have a lot of rose left if there's nothing below the mulch. Don't be fooled by that white tip. That's just dried and bleached from the sun. The wood itself is dead. Depending on whether or not it's own root or grafted the rose may not survive that deep a cut if you have to go to the green line. Or if it survives it may never be a strong healthy plant again. Own root roses have a better chance of survival and revival because they will send up new canes from the roots. Grafted roses not so much. We call them one cane wonders and they rarely come back to be strong bushy plants after dwindling this far. And if it is grafted and it appears to send up new canes from below ground those will most likely be the root stock sprouting and not your rose. I hope this helps and I really hope your rose survives!...See MoreShould I cut back my rose before transplanting?
Comments (12)Perhaps in the climate the link originated in, that method works. From over thirty years of actually doing it in MINE, not reducing water stress on any plant whose roots have been significantly disturbed, damaged or reduced is a sure way to severely impact the plant. Leaving the original top growth when the roots have been reduced results in loss of canes and foliage, perhaps even the failure of the plant in this climate. I would venture to suggest it might in others with the sun intensity, heat and accelerated transpiration rates similar to this one. If I transplant a four foot bush with only about a foot and a half of roots without reducing the top appropriately, this heat, sun and transpiration rate will induce the plant to wilt and begin eliminating foliage, softer growth and in many cases, harder, woodier canes until it re establishes roots to balance the tops to the bottoms. Cutting the top back to about the same mass as the root ball, keeping it well watered, even shading it with sheets, old tee shirts, cardboard boxes or soil, either as a mound over the remaining plant or held in place with a cylinder of cardboard until new growth begins showing, brings them through every time. IF transplanting can be accomplished during a period of sufficiently long rain, reducing the top growth isn't as critical. The lower temps, reduced sun intensity, higher humidity and the regular bathing by the rain maintains the moisture in the plant, tremendously reducing (even eliminating) the water stress. The provided link is from Washington State with their greater humidity, rain, reduced sun and transpiration rates. When the weather here is similar to that, I don't have to prune many roses and other plants to transplant them because of the conditions. Most of the time, it is NOT like that here and not reducing the top to match the bottom will jeopardize the plant. If the poster's conditions mimic those of Washington State's, perhaps they don't need to reduce the top to mitigate the negative effects of cutting off so many roots. But, if the conditions aren't similar to that rainy, cooler, damp, cloudy type, I personally wouldn't risk it. Kim...See MoreRoses in bloom before the rain
Comments (6)Thank you so much Lilyfinch! Peggy Martin is coming into full bloom soon. I've got my dad now wanting to plant her around their fence and a couple friends on theirs as well. Love that rose and perfect for beginners too! You should definitely get her! She doesn't have the best rebloom like many of my other roses throughout the year but she is one heck of a showstopper in spring and will certainly give you that pop of color in your garden! I'll post again when she's in full bloom. That stinks your neighborhood doesn't allow chickens or ducks. :( If we ever move to another neighborhood rather than some land and a house, I've always said first requirement would be it must allow my feathered babies! lol The ducks have been so much more fun to raise than my chickens, they have such personality and are just so much cuter, although I will always love my chickens. :) ~Meghan By the way, see my pics are squashed too. I didn't feel like resizing since Annette said you can see it full size by clicking on it....See MoreRoses before the rain
Comments (32)Hi Carol - so far I like TPW because of the steady growth and fragrance. The yellow isn't as dark as I'd like once it opens up. The canes can be thin but some are showing more thickness and uprightness. I think it's bit too early to judge but overall I like it. I just got Charlotte as a tree standard and it's similar in color and fragrance but I'm happy with both so far. Maybe I'm not critical enough of the Austins which have generally done quite well for me, especially after the second or even third year. TPW about two weeks ago (mid-July) TPW blooms from last week - I wish it would stay this color. Ann...See MoreAndrea zone 9b
14 days agoAndrea zone 9b
14 days agoAndrea zone 9b
13 days ago
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA