This deer deterrent would work, but it may not exist
laceyvail 6A, WV
2 months ago
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2 months agolast modified: 2 months agolaceyvail 6A, WV
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Electric fence for deer and groundhog deterrent
Comments (18)Lavender_lass, what you are talking about is the reason why I suggested that the OP read up on how to properly use electric fencing to deter deer. The baiting of the fence so that the first contact made is a sharp zap to a tender area is very important. Otherwise the combination of the deer's coat and hooves insulate them from the bulk of the current and no real lesson is learned. Also the amount of electricity used for deer deterant is stronger than conventionally used for horse containment. It is a little different. But yes, the two sets of fences is what I planne to turn to next if my single strand failed to work. I have a herd of 20 deer that frequent the edges of my property. An interesting side story about the difference a little insulation will make... Last year I was creating the garden and got tired of turning the fencer on and off, so would just go under the wire. It was spring, and cool, so I was wearing sneakers and a fleece vest. I never felt the fence at all, so it became quite the habit... Until the first day that it was warm and I was bare foot and wearing just a tee shirt. As I went under the fence that time the current made the muscles in my back seize and in my legs as well, so one second I am sliding under the fence as usual and the next I am flat on my face in the mud wondering what the heck just happened. Respect the fence....See MoreDeer-proof, May-blooming in zone 5??
Comments (10)Fencing - 7-8 feet if you're fencing an area (perhaps lower if they can't see where they'd land if they jumped over). There are different thicknesses of netting used; typically a very fine 3/8-1/2"ish netting and a heavier 5/-8-3/4"ish netting. In either case, make sure they can't wiggle under or put their head under and pop the lower staples off the pole (lost every leaf off a Fantastica last winter that way). The fine stuff tends to get tangled; birds can get caught in it, etc. Cheaper, but hard to manage and not strong if the deer hit it by mistake. The heavier stuff tends to retain it's form more; doesn't get tangled easily. Much stronger, but a deer on a run can go through it. 50-100% more expensive. Probably lasts longer. I like the heavy stuff. Poles: don't go too wimpy, and drive them deep enough. You can get away to a degree with slightly wimpy stakes, but it makes it easier for them to push the netting against the plants (see below). 1x1" or 2x1/2" or 3/8" would probably be the minimum. I bought some 2x2"s for next winter. Metal (green-painted) poles for fencing are probably better and longer-lasting - I got some of those too. I plan to do major fencing this fall (bought and plants 60-70 rhododendrons, azaleas, and pieris this year). To make it possible to remove the fencing quickly, I plan to install 2"ish PVC pipes in the ground about 12". The metal poles will slip into the PVC pipes (and I may secure them somehow). In the spring, I pull the end of each section of netting, and roll the netting around the poles until I reach the other end. Reverse to install in the fall. Or so goes the plan... :-) There are some good books on Amazon on deer control, and also the net. For individual plants or small areas (too small to jump into), shorter fencing works. Make sure that they can't push the netting up against the plants, or they'll eat them right through the netting! I lost 1/3 the leaves on a big Yaku Princess that way last winter, 50% off a Blue Peter, etc. For the problem, get some heavy wire mesh rabbit/etc fencing and/or chicken wire. Take a section, cut it from the roll, let it make a rough circle and use the ends to lock it. If needed, take a section of netting (or burlap or whatever) and fasten it across the top. Put over plant. If worried, stake it down with one or two stakes. This is very safe for the plant. They can be reused year to year, but storing them might be annoying unless you flatten them. Deer rarely touch rhodos or azaleas in the summer unless there's a SEVERE drought, so long as there are other things to eat. Usually not even in sever grought. Mine got hit last fall in November. I'll bet on the deer eating the maximums in mid-late winter again. Instead of soap, try one of the egg+garlic(+hot pepper) sprays in the winter, but you need to remember to do it every week or two or three. Or fence...See MoreMango squirrel deterrent not working.
Comments (13)I bought several squirrel traps by Hav-a Hart and using peanut butter on apple slices caught 22 squirrels last year. Also using the fruit they are eating is good too if they,ve already tasted it. Hauled them off to a preserve about 5 miles away and remained free of them through avocado season. This year my lychee had the biggest crop ever so I let the new spring crop of squirrels and woodpeckers have the upper fruit and I harvested the lower branches before they worked them over. One thing that slowed the climbing critters from getting up my avocado tree was wrapping a 2-foot width of aluminum sheet metal around the trunk and where it came together, took vinyl-coated clothesline wire and tied it together through pre-drilled holes, tight enough so it wouldn"t slip down the trunk. Weekly I painted used motor oil or smeared Vaseline on it so they couldn,t get a grip to climb. They probably took to the traps better probably out of frustration. If you have nearby limbs from another tree, you,ll need to trim them back further then they can jump. Besides raccoons and possums, the gray squirrel is the most destructive and persistent rodent on the face of the earth!!!...See MoreBest Tips for Deer Deterrence
Comments (13)I'd leave the munched parts on the plant for now. You should act sooner than later to deter the deer so the 'salad bar' isn't imprinted on their memory. There are several spray products on the market to try. Alternating between them is a good idea. As I understand it, some sprays have a smell and some are absorbed into the leaves leaving a residual bad taste. I have smeared daubs of Vick's vapor rub (or generic works too) low and 'nose high' on the trees around the approach to my yard. I also smear dabs on edging and around the yard near the beds. My theory is deer don't like the smell and hopefully will avoid those areas. It's greasy and doesn't wash off....See Morelaceyvail 6A, WV
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laceyvail 6A, WVOriginal Author