How to finish butcher block counter in a corner?
Hey Houzz!
My counters and cabinet guy is coming in a couple days and I need to get a decision made on a corner detail! We are replacing the old butcher block we have currently since we’re reconfiguring our cabinets and there will be more counter space.
We’ll be doing light rubberwood butcher block tops. Cabs are matte black (ikea kungsbacka) and hardware is a mix of unlaquered brass and matte black. We’ve got a ceramic apron front over mount sink. Our style is a mix of clean minimal with rustic/primitive earthy elements. counter guy can keep the seam where it is currently (pictures below), but finish nicely with bow tie joints. Or he suggested another option where the counter (on the wall with the range) runs all the way to the wall, and he would glue extra butcher block strips to finish the small area next to the sink. So it would be seamless looking. i like the idea of it being seamless (I bake bread so always lots of flour and crumbs), and I like the counter running all the way to the wall, as there will be a marble floating shelf directly above that counter that goes all the way to the wall as well. However, this option would mean that the grain of the countertops would run in different directions on either side of the sink. If you’re standing facing the sink, to the left it would run up and down and to the right it would run side to side. Is that weird? For some reason I feel like it might bother me. Or is it nbd, and totally worth it to get a seamless corner? I have decision fatigue and need input. Thank you!
Pictures below of our kitchen, countertops, and a cad showing the finished look of the range wall. I should note that lower cabs will run all the way to the refrigerator on the range wall, and they will extend further on the sink wall as well. Each arm of the “L” is roughly equal in length.
Comments (12)
elizabeth_eclectic
2 years agoKat Berkery
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Best way to finish butcher block counters? Waterlox, poly, tung?
Comments (2)Little late to the rodeo here, and I guess you got the butcher block finished already. When I installed kitchens, we used a product called "Good Stuff" that Bally block recommended . It was kinda an oil based paste that you rubbed in then buffed off. Several coats provided a nice matte finish. Cant attest for how long the finish lasts, but I've never got a call back to re apply....See MoreHow to finish butcher block counter-Formby's?
Comments (16)There is no reason to apply pure tung oil over top of varnish. (In addition to little reason to apply pure tung oil all by itself, IMHO. It is more expensive, more time consuming, more difficult to apply successfully, and if you don't do it right, you have to strip and start over. Nor does it look any different than cheaper, more available, easier to use boiled linseed oil.) (Curing) Oil finishes are generally always soft, offer little moisture protection, and need renewal. You already have a hard film finish with the wipe-on varnish. This is great for an eating area finish. Nearly all finishes are toxic in liquid state and non-toxic in cured state. Just do not use the Formbied surface for cutting (if that's one of the etcs). Cutting will create cuts in the film finish, looking unsightly and allowing moisture to penetrate and will accelerate its demise by flaking. For anyone finding this thread, if you want a good, working butcher block finish, the finish of choice is either no finish or mineral oil. Mineral oil is inert so it will not go rancid like non-curing vegetable oils. If you want, you can shave in 1 part paraffin to 6 parts mineral oil, heat in a double boiler until the paraffin melts, slather it on, let it cool, and scrape off the excess with a plastic scraper. Repeat either treatment as needed, maybe a couple of times a year or less. You can buy "butcher block oil," but this is usually just high priced mineral oil. You can find mineral oil at a drug store or drug department of grocery or discount store, where it's sold as a laxative / stool softener. (Thus it's "non-toxic") Paraffin is also easily found in the canning supply section of stores. Here is a link that might be useful: food safe finishes...See MoreButcher block counter tops and waterlox
Comments (15)You've gotten good advice! I applied 2 coats of Waterlox Original to the underside of the Ikea slabs before they were cut to size. (A carpenter was cutting and installing them and I didn't want to have to move them afterwards.) I tried every application method I could think of - old t-shirt, foam brush, lambswool applicator, brush, etc. The foam brush (a wider one, 2" or so) worked best for me. Use a new brush for each coat. Do let it dry well in between coats, and be generous with the first few as it will be absorbed into the wood. You're going to want lots and lots of coats around the sink area - and probably a vapor barrier between the dishwasher and the underside of the butcher block. I ended up applying 2 coats of Original to the bottoms, then 3 coats of Original and 4 coats of Satin for a total of 7 on the tops and sides. I'd suggest more at the sink. Good luck - the Waterlox will make it look rich and honey colored!...See Morefinished kitchen, cream cabinets with butcher block counters
Comments (21)Thanks everyone for the nice compliments. I got so many good tips from this forum. The biggest tip I got here was to use mostly drawers in the bottom. I was worried at first but my gosh, it is fantastic! I can't believe everyone that does a new kitchen doesn't do this. Everything is so accessible and you actually have more storage. In fact, I have so much storage I still have drawers that don't have anything in them yet. And this isn't a huge kitchen, I think it is 11' x 12' or so. Lynn, I answered you question about the hard wood on the post in the decorating forum where I posted pics of the rest of my house. The floors are by Shaw, 5" plank engineered, satin finish. The color change hasn't been dramatic, just gives them a richer color. Easy to care for so far. Thanks for the thought on sealing after oiling. I was planning to sand them down first but I will definitely check and see if it will work....See MoreKat Berkery
2 years agoelizabeth_eclectic
2 years ago
Hillside House
2 years agoKat Berkery
2 years ago
kculbers
2 years ago
heather641
2 years agoKat Berkery
2 years agoKat Berkery
2 years ago
sansira
2 years ago
klynneg