I don't know that you can get a real looking Shaker hollow door because the flat recessed panel area would have to be very thin in cross section. In my experience the raised panel portion of a hollow door is much thicker than the raised panel on a solid wood door, almost as thick as the stiles and rails themselves in cross section. Stylistically I don't think a 6 raised panel will work well on closets with the Shaker on the room doors. In a hierarchical sense, the Room door is the Primary door and should be fancier or more detailed than closet doors if they are not all going to match. I see nothing wrong, if you are not matching doors, with using a Shaker door on the room door and using plain slab doors in a paint grade with a good paint job on them for the closets, so that the closets take a stylistic back seat to the room doors. As for hollow vs. solid. I am strongly biased toward solid even for pocket doors. It is the hanging hardware and the workmanship of the hang that dictates their proper function, not the weight of the doors. The houses in my neighborhood have pocket doors that are 10 feet tall and four feet wide that are Very heavy. But you have to get good hardware, have a good carpenter do the install, and *make *sure * the *finish *carpenters *don't *nail *the *baseboards* and *door *casings *through the *drywall *and *into *the *pocket *doors *themselves*. It Happens. A Lot.

The poly furniture is lightweight, which makes them easier to move and store when you have to, but also makes them more flimsy and uncomfortable - heavy furniture is always more comfortable. It also gets dirty easily but is much harder to clean. "The real thing" is always nicer, in my opinion, for authenticity, as well as for other reasons. Wood is cleaned naturally by weather. Problem is, it's difficult to find well-made authentic anything nowadays, and when you do, it tends to cost a fortune. If you get the authentic wood chairs, make sure you know what kind of wood was used to make it, and what kind of hardware (you want stainless steel and/or galvanized, to handle weather). I think if I were looking for such chairs, I'd contact some well-respected woodsmiths and ask them if they could refer me to a place that makes very good Adirondack chairs, even contact "This Old House" and see if you get an answer from them. Obviously check out the Adirondacks themselves, as there are probably genuine makers there.

Oh, I forgot to say that the dark blue would be the main color. How many dark blue houses have you seen? Not many, if any, and there's a reason for that. A dark blue is going to fade a lot faster than a gray blue or a light blue. Which is why most blue houses are some flavor of gray with an edge of blue, or a blue-gray, or some version of a medium or light blue. Those colors of blue will last a whole lot longer than a dark blue. So blue per se is an issue, but so is the factor of "dark". Dark anything exterior collects energy from sunlight and that energy ends up as heat. Essentially dark colors cook in the sun. The color cooks and whatever the color is applied to cooks. Lighter colors applied exterior lend a longer life to exterior products because lighter reflects that energy and allays roasting in the elements. It can be surprising to learn that you can't color however you want to exterior. The truth is that only a percentage of the colors at the paint store can go outside. Not many people know that or think of that when they are choosing colors. It sucks when you are far along in the choosing and sampling process and have your heart set on a color scheme and then learn that your pretty palette is pretty but not functional exterior. If you were my client and truly had your heart set on a dark blue exterior we would do this: We would come to the conclusion that BenM's Aura Exterior is the best product for this project. We would chose a dark blue, like BenM's Hale Navy, and have it mixed in Aura. Aura is 100% acrylic as are its colorants. That makes a difference because 'regular' paint uses glycol colorants. Factors of the glycol colorants in combination with the colors (or pigments) needed to mix a dark blue, and the amount of colorant needed all combine to make dark blue unstable for exterior use. Aura Exterior could be a solution because its colorants are 100% acrylic. Not glycol. That will help with stability (fading) exterior. The only way I'd paint the body of an exterior a dark blue would be using Aura Exterior paint. There are ready-mixed blues that can go outside, but I'm pretty sure all of them are high gloss. High gloss with the intent of their being used on small areas like doors or shutters. I can virtually color-style the house for you. Need to know if you still want the body dark blue? Give me some time to get it done. I never forget when I commit here, it's just I'm not always super quick.

Great space- I remember your house. The pictures are tiny but I think the paint looks fine. Finish the room first, then decide. A darker, rug with some color would ground the sectional. The sage is nice, but bolder accent colors like orange, teal,navy or pink would really bring the space to life. Maybe with darker window panels with a subtle pattern.