Raspberries are not really comparable to avocados. They are not a single plant or bush. They produce their fruit by putting out new canes every year. The reason raspberries 'travel' is that they are seeking new ground with a fresh supply of nutrients for their new canes. If you are going to prevent them from doing this you will need to ensure they have what they need in situ by feeding them well, pruning out old canes and allowing new ones to grow within your allowed area. You will not be able to stop them sending out runners and if they are constantly thwarted they will not be as happy as if they were allowed to roam. You can keep them in check for while but it is likely that after a few years you will need to start a new row elsewhere as they will exhaust the ground they have and the berries will become increasingly inferior in size and yield.

Thanks Jim, My intentions are that my son and I will plant the trees. I plan to rent a dingo with a large auger. These are small peach trees, so they won't need much of a hole, but I don't want to try it by hand. I've thought of doing some soil testing. The biggest issue with our soil and climate around here is getting peach trees up out of the ground (i.e. terraced). If that's done peaches grow like weeds, if it's not done, they die. I did a couple soil tests on the soil here and it was very low in P. However, the farm property has been used for cattle pasture for years, and so should have plenty of P (probably too much). Zinc was also low here, but I typically spray Ziram for early scab control which also provides zinc through foliar absorption (peach trees are heavy feeders of zinc). My general problem is that peach trees have been too vigorous here, so I wouldn't mind if the soil was a little less fertile at the farm (but it probably won't be). The soil profile looks very similar on both sites (20" of top soil followed by clay for as far as you want to dig). I plan to mulch the trees out there with wood chips and run a dry orchard, as I do here. "are you doing this on your own or are you getting technical assistance from a university or crop specialist?" I'm not quite doing it on my own. I've been touring orchards in the area for many years (partly with the Kansas Fruit Growers Assoc.) so compared to other orchards I don't think there are many surprises. There is a good fruit specialist in Missouri I've met and may see if I can get him to come out. My wife and I looked for land for a while and no site is perfect. This ones not either. The biggest issue is air drainage. The part of the land I intend to plant does flatten out in a low spot, but the low spot extends for over a mile, so I'm hoping the flat area is large enough to accommodate cold air drainage. Part of the property is on a southward facing slope, but I don't intend to plant on that (at least not right away). I wish the property didn't have the air drainage concern but trying to find a property easily accessible to the public, zoned rural, doesn't flood, at a reasonable price is pretty difficult. My biggest question was row spacing, since I don't have any experience running large equipment down rows. I emailed a few commercial peach growers and basically got back similar answers. Namely, it's personal preference. Jerry Frecon (fruit specialist from Rutgers) sent back the most humorous response - "I could take you to orchards with 16' row spacing and when they are heavily laden with fruit you can hardly walk down the rows. I see the growers drive his equipment through these blocks and break limbs, knock off and bruise fruit but he does not worry about it because he says he is picking up to 1200 bushels per acre at this close spacing and high vigor." I've pretty much settled on 25'rows which is a bit more space than growers around here allow. I plan to allow 30' at the ends to turn equipment. There is a very good resource here, http://www.clemson.edu/extension/peach/commercial/index.html called the "Southeastern Peach Growers Handbook". It is obviously written for peach growers in the Southeast, but the Midwest doesn't have anything nearly that extensive, and a lot of the information crosses over.

Maybe this will help: Trumpet Creeper Vines should be thinned throughout the growing season and cut back in winter to prevent aggressive spread. Posted by bhrost zone 5 NY (My Page) on Sun, Oct 23, 05 at 9:55 Both trumpet creeper and wisteria are fairly rampant growers, and will require occasional pruning both to keep them within bounds and encourage flower production - if left largely unpruned, they will expend a lot of their energy on vegetative (leaves, shoots) growth and direct less of it toward flowering. As a broad general rule, if you are going to prune vines, it is best to prune them in the period after they complete flowering. It is best to avoid pruning them in the period leading up to their next flowering, because you are likely to inadvertantly prune off many of the future flowering buds and so lose much of your next flowering display (the flower buds may not be readily apparent while you're pruning). How long this window of pruning opportunity lasts depends upon the vine and is something you will get a feel for with experience. Of course, if the vine is a total mess due to neglect, you may want to prune harshly regardless of the timing so as to get it in bounds and train it for the future. Vines that flower most effectively in the spring, such as Wisteria, do so on the growth of the previous year. Thus, if you prune Wisteria too late in the previous summer and fall, you are likely to have a non-flowering wisteria in the spring because you've pruned away most of the potential flower buds. In my experience, the latter do not even become apparent until the springtime. You want then to do major pruning on wisteria in early to mid-summer. Long, wispy shoots can even be pruned away in the fall because they are unlikely to produce flowers next spring. It is substantial branches/branchlets that you want to avoid late pruning on. As you put your garden to bed for the winter, you ideally want your Wisteria to be a relatively compact woody entity with a lot of somewhat short, thick woody spurs (not stubs) coming out of a main trunk and at most a few major branches (assuming you're not trying to cover a tremendously large space with one vine that is)- you don't want a lot of small diameter but comparatively lengthy branches shooting out everywhere from the main trunk and limbs. As with any vine, shrub or tree, when you prune you ideally want to prune back to a bud - you don't want to leave stubs protruding. Creating your framework of comparatively short spurs (the type of architecture most conducive to wisteria flowering) may take a couple or more seasons to develop, particularly if pruning has been misguided in the past and/or you need your Wisteria to grow and cover a large space - once it is as big as you want it to be, you can direct your pruning efforts toward developing the short spur framework. Wisteria will sometimes produce flowers after leafing out in summer on new growth (particularly if it didn't flower in the spring), but this is usually ornamentally ineffective - it is the spring flowering before leaf-out which gardeners aim to achieve and towards which proper pruning efforts should be directed. There have been many good articles written about Wisteria pruning over the years, and I encourage you to seek them out to learn the nuances. I've dealt mainly with generalities above. Trumpet creeper flowers in summer on growth of the current year, so it follows that you can prune it freely in the autumn but should be wary of particularly late spring to early summer pruning lest you remove flower buds. It's my impression that pruning for Campsis is generally less tricky than for Wisteria, and you're likely to get flowering even if you make some mistakes, whereas improper pruning is the reason why some wisterias seem year after year to not flower at all. Good luck with your efforts.

I love the indoor growth im still getting. I'm going to have to conclude the grow lights are definitely helping. I hope to keep this up all winter. Lights are on a timer from 7am - 8pm. just a few months ago I wasn't sure if ficus needed a sort of dormancy, not like deciduous trees that drop leaves, but more like an inactive growth period. However, I do believe if they get the right amount of light and conditions, they can just keep growing all year.