sskit, I agree with Live Wire, while the concept is not new, hanging large format 2cm stone on a vertical wall should be taken seriously. Any well thought-out stone installer will know to ask the right questions and they will make certain other tradesmen are not left holding the bag after the stone is installed. Just make sure the obvious utilities are accessible and the rough in is complete and most importantly identify who is responsible for each task. Another option for the stone installer is to install mechanical clips around the exhaust opening. It�s another way to help pin the stone to the wall without having to worry about hiding the anchors. Something similar to Hohmann and Barnard #432 would work great (again I am sure your stone installer can also provide alternate options). All the best Caayu

I had to do this for my mom. The best thing I found was to take a hammer to the front of the tiles first. It wasn't necessarily hard enough to crack them, but it somehow made them fall off easier. Then you can use a very flat chisel and hammer behind the tile. One thing you don't want to do is to use a any type of curved bar (crow bar, claw?). I put that behind one tile to pry it away from the wall and the curved part went right into the wallboard. That was the only big repair we had to make. Her's had lath and cement underneath and there was still only minor damage to the rest. Have fun! I love demo!

Here is a link to google, how that backsplash should have been installed. There are some u tube videos too. I watched one video, where they used grout, between the countertop and the backsplash, and grout should not be used there. Caulking shud be done between backsplash and countertop. My backsplash is also caulked in all the corners, rather than grouted. Once you watch these videos and read these articles, you will see that your thinset was put on improperly, and thats why your tiles are falling off. Please read carefully. https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=uI4VW7HdLszKjwTtrqSoAw&q=how+to+install+glass+subway+tile+backsplash&oq=How+to+install+glass+subway+tile+&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0l3j0i22i30k1l3.3755.12143.0.14244.41.29.3.9.9.0.173.3348.9j20.29.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.41.3556...0i131k1j33i22i29i30k1.0.70wb9L5GlO8

lmao. what Jan said! Although, I had to help out my guys who did my herringbone wood floor. it's the starting point where everyone gets messed up. after that, it's simple. Look up how to properly start a herringbone layout and read it. you need to use a speed square at the end of your tile in order to get the proper middle starting point. much easier to illustrate than trying to write it out here. This is how I showed my guys how to start it. see the blue tape w/the two lines? you have to start on the middle after you mark your corner. that's the only way you will get perfect even cuts on both ends. this is how most do it, and it's not correct IF you want perfectly symmetrical left/right borders. All he's done is set the corner of the tile on the line. doing it like this will leave you w/one side smaller than the other: see how the sides of the window don't match? this is what you don't want. your tile guy should be doing a dry layout in order to determine where he starts so he doesn't get this look or these tiny triangles. Again,,,see how the ends don't match below? the right has longer tiles than the left edge. that's because of the way he started his first tile. And don't do these vertical tiles for your edging. get proper bullnose tiles, pencil liner or a Schluter edge. This is a layout board of my herringbone for my shower. took a few hours in order to get this almost perfect. since this was an odd size, and the tiles were even at 3x12, it couldn't be perfect. the right bottom corner triangle is the only portion that doesn't match. luckily, it's not readily visible! Even the subway tiles are perfectly matched. this layout took hours to get exact, even around the niche. 2x6your 3x9 will be 1/3 larger. 3x9 is a good size for a backsplash. this is a regular 3x6. again, a 3x9 will give you 1/3 longer.