not only is there a variation in petal numbers over a plants lifetime, the cultivars themselves are very variable. 30 years ago, the red climber 'Etoile de Holland' was fully double whereas now, clones of this rose have changed to semi-double status (17 petals or so). I have noticed this phenomenon on several other roses and concluded that, even though these roses are meant to be genetically identical to the original varieties, there are continual changes as the characteristics of the mother plants recede further back into the mists of time and circumstance. Audrey, are you a fairly new gardener? In a couple of years, as you continue to add to your plant collection, you will look back on this time with bemusement. We don't so much as learn patience but find that, as our gardens are evolving all the time, there are always going to be new plants to look forward to and old ones we can rely on. If you grow plants from seed, you will find the same phenomenon - it seems so hard to have to wait for YEARS for a seed to reach maturity but if you do this every year, then there will always be some that have finally made the grade. I know 2 years seems like a long time but it really isn't and rather than waiting endlessly, satart right now by sowing some perennials from seed and add a few companion plants, buy bulbs in autumn and more bulbs next spring. Bulbs, by the way, are a great lesson in deferred pleasure which never let you down....while appearing in the gloomy parts of the year to cheer you up.Enjoy what you have already achieved in the knowledge that it is a work in progress which will never be finished.

Lioness, just wanted to point out to you that there is a big, big difference between a climber being "hardy to zone 4" and being "cane hardy to zone 4." The first is a rose that will live through winter for you, but have to be pruned to the snow line (or lower) year after year, turning it more into a shrub than a climber. The second will actually be able to build on its own growth, year after year, until it can really cover that trellis or arch. There are many in the first category and darn few in the latter, unfortunately, and lots of sellers who are less than forthcoming about which they are selling to you. Floribundas, as far as I know, don't have winter hardy canes in zone 4. I could be wrong as I have no personal experience with Fred Loads, but I'd be willing to bet on it.

Jean, so far the deer don't touch the peonies. But... I was just out perusing the yard a couple hours ago, still broad daylight.... I went into the backyard to turn on one of the sprinklers... DAGNABBIT!! Those frickin' deer (two does) were chowing on my DA's!! I screamed at them and they flew over the side fence and away! Had to spend the last hour or more spraying my deer repellent. My hands and arms are killing me! I had to spray 3 gallons this time because the roses are so big this yr! Yeah Leslie, I think that color change on GYPSY LANTERN must be the temps. We'll see with the next blooms! Rainbow, I'm just glad the Japanese maples are so expensive, or I'd have tons more of them!! LOL Redsox, the tree peonies are a good 5yrs old now and they seem to have peaked out at anywhere from 3-4½ft tall. I just love them! These are all in part shade and they sure do lean towards the sunniest area! I wonder if they'd be even bigger in full sun?? Aprille, I got my tree peonies at the store where I work. I ordered the bulbs from Van Borgondien. VB has a retail website under its affiliate, Van Dycks. They have all the ones we had ordered yrs ago. I just discovered a tag on this magenta peony, and it's name is "SHIMADAIJIN." Here is a link that might be useful: Van Dycks

I used an automatic watering and feeding system based on the use of recycled rubber soaker hose, an automatic timer, and water filter cartridge holders. Starting from the garden water faucet, the system consists of the following: 1) An anti-siphon device protected by filters on both the inlet and outlet side. The function of the anti-siphon device is to prevent water from backing up into the house water system if the house water pressure would suddenly drop from something like flushing a toilet. The reason I use filters on both the inlet and outlet side is to prevent particles from entering the anti-siphon check valve chamber. Particle contamination could prevent the valve from completely closing. As an additional precaution I use a second filter, anti-siphon device, filter combination in series with the first but located after the automatic timer. I also replace the anti-siphon devices each season (since mineral buildup could also hinder complete sealing of the valve). 2) Battery operated automatic timers. The most important feature to look for is that the unit will automatically shut off when the batteries are weak. Also look for a unit with a battery life that lasts for the season (the first unit that I purchased needed a new battery every couple of weeks). My present units are good for the season. My timers have a manual on-off feature that does not disturb the automatic settings. I find this feature very useful. Ease of programming would also be desirable (some of my previous units were not easy to program). As noted above the timers are protected by filters on both the inlet and outlet sides. 3) Water filter cartridges holders. I use four household water filter cartridge holders in series to hold whatever chemicals I want to deliver to the rose beds. The number four is because I have four independent lines to various parts of my garden (each with its own timer - set to go on at times that do not overlap). The first one was purchased at a discount store. The others were later purchased used at yard sales and Goodwill type stores. I recommend that you look for units with a clear lower unit and with a pressure release button. I install them backwards to the suggested direction when used as filters. As I install them the water enters from the center of the cover and then exits from the side of the cover. I epoxy a small section of plastic pipe to the center top inlet so that the water goes to the bottom of the cartridge holder (this is not necessary, but it does promote more rapid mixing of the fertilizer and the water). To use a household filter cartridge holder with a garden hose, one should utilize adapters to change from water pipe thread to garden house thread. The adaptors are not expensive, and they are normally available at large hardware stores. The two threads are almost the same; but if you try to force the one on the other , you will cross thread the fitting and probably have slow leakage at the joint. 4) The distribution system. I have used both regular PVC plastic pipe and cheap plastic garden hose for the under lawn delivery systems. I used a semicircular edger tool to lift one side of the sod and then I pushed the hose under the sod. In the Spring the ground is relatively soft and this part of the installation is not as hard as one may think. 5) The soaker hoses. Once in the individual bed the water is split into several paths by the use of inexpensive "Y" connectors (with shut off valves in each arm). The soaker hoses are connected at this point. In my most recent beds I use three hoses that run parallel to each other 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 of the way from one side of the bed (my beds are about 5 feet wide). In the older beds I snaked two hoses in and out from bush to bush (the hoses were installed after the bushes were in place so a straight line installation was not possible). I install a manual on-off valve at the termination end of each hose so that I can periodically flush the hose. The first year I buried the soaker hoses. However, the second year I found that the hoses appeared to have lost most of their porosity (presumably due to mineral build up). I now put the hose under the mulch. Each spring I take the hose up and flex it and then flush it. This seems to restore the porosity. Sometimes in the late fall I have added enzyme drain cleaner to the water filter cartridges the day before shutting down the system for the season. I should point out that the water used is untreated well water so the mineral buildup problem may not be typical. Probably each hose is replaced every 4 or 5 years. (As a side note.) I found that I can not operate the units at night as "critters" chew on the hoses to get more water.