There's a difference between "recommended" and "allowable" minimum window size. As stated before, local codes vary. In my neck of the woods the ALLOWABLE minimum is 8% daylight and 5% egress/ventilation. So if the room was 10' x 10' which is 100 sq. ft., one would need a minimum of 8 square feet of glass and a minimum of 5 square feet of natural ventilation when the window is open. However, in my opinion that allowable minimum is somewhat small by today's standards. That's the amount I'd typically find in a house built in the 1950s. In newer homes it's more common to see the glass area be equal to about 15% or more of the square footage of the room. Windows today are much more energy efficient than those of the 1950s, allowing larger glass areas without the adverse effects of temperature extremes. Using the previous example, that 10' x 10' room would then have a minimum 15 square feet of glass (perhaps two windows 2' x 4'). It's brighter and more cheerful. My own personal goal if I were to build or remodel would be to shoot for 15%-20%, depending on the room. I hope that helps!

As an electrician for more than 25 years, hanging thousands of chandeliers, I can tell you that those formulas rarely work. Like most formulas made up by the design industry, they only work for a limited range of room and table sizes... based on what someone decided was the perfect size of table in the perfect size room in a McMansion... where you have a high ceiling and 5' between the table and wall. I can literally walk around any house and make up formulas about anything that appears to be just right for that house. ...A door height should be 84% of the height of a wall... There should be 14 steps between floors. (13 steps used to be such a universal rule of thumb that it became an unlucky number - think about the number of steps up to a 1 story gallows.) BUT, neither of those formulas would hold true for a house with 10' ceings. In other words, they are not true mathematic formulas in the scientific sense. They are just quite literally coincidences of what people found for a particularly large dining room. One thing I find through years of experience is that the chandelier should not be so close to the edge of the table or so low that someone feels like they may hit their head on it when leaning in while standing up to move the chair. A larger chandelier usually ends up higher, and that means higher ceilings. A smaller one can be lower. (The decorator's rule of thumb is 30" above the table, but I have raised nearly every one that I have installed that low to suit the taste of the homeowner - a few skinny pendants) I have found that most people prefer the chandelier low enough to catch their eye, but not low enough to obstruct their vision horizontally. (An orb, being fairly "airy" can often go a little lower than a chandelier with lots of Bling) With round tables, this usually means that most people feel comfortable with the chandelier about 11" from the edge of the table. With long tables, it is common for people to feel the need to fill up the space more, so the fixture tends to crowd the narrow sides of the table more.

Or, were you trying to ask about a picture you found somewhere else on Houzz?

Open your current machines, stand in front of them with a load of wash in a basket. Measure from the wall to where you are standing. Add some space for ease of use. You can buy any size hampers to fit your space. Some people do not have hampers, they just move one load at a time from a bedroom to the laundry area.