Mark , I meant to try to answer you sooner, but lost track of your post. 1) I saw the SL16 label on a box the last time I went to Home Depot. I had the box opened and saw they had the correct SL15 ballasts in them. I believe that they may be changing the style of the fixture and just used the old number and upped it by one, not realizing that somebody initially based the product number on the ballast number. Beats me. I always open one box to see if its got the SL15. Sunpark doesnÂt make an SL16. 2) The traditional T12 fluorescents were designed to use 430mA each, and use a magnetic ballast. The newer T8Âs have been designed for 265mA of current. The SL15 ballast is able to drive the old F40T12Âs, but it causes the circuitry to operate different, drawing less current than the older design normally would use. I use F40T12Âs in them, both out-of-the-box and overdriven. An overdriven fixture really lights up the older style 430mA tubes. (Extra design info: T12HO=800mA , T12VHO=1200mA, 34wT12=460mA, 20wT12=380mA, 20w/40w slimline=425mA, and thereÂs more, each different T5 wattage has a different current design.) 3) Probably not. It is nearly always cheaper to buy a good, inexpensive shoplight and remove the ballast Especially that Home Depot one. 3b) I donÂt know. I had downloaded brochures on them from GE months ago. They may be designed differently, as they are supposed to have special features, such as automatic line voltage matching. 4) I donÂt know the fixture you speak of, but reflecting back light that otherwise would escape is always a good thing. 5) Power Factor (not ballast factor) is a ratio of the how efficiently the current and voltage waveforms match due to the circuit design. Without trying to remember how to explain it, I can tell you this  donÂt worry. Poor Power Factor normally does not cost you. It costs the electric company, unless they have special meters on your house to detect it. That is rare. 7) DonÂt try to switch in and out of overdrive. Too late for details, but youÂre asking for trouble if you do it If you are using a single SL15 to light each bulb, then put any switches on the line-side/power-side of the ballasts (black wire). Zink

LOL Yes, I guess this is why they say English is such a difficult language to learn. I'm glad I started in infancy.

Most supermarkets have spiral cut ready to eat hams this time of the year....I happen to like Smithfield but there are others. Then put that ham, shank down cut side up ( I am trusting you won't be buying a whole ham) into a dish with sides and pour honey over it and onto the cut side.....even open up the spirals where it's cut and put some in there. Teh ham will absorb the honey....and repeat.....and perhaps a third time. Then place that ham in a roasting pan, cut side down! and heat at 325, covered or wrapped in floi until it's just heated through...for maybe a 6 pound ham that would be about an hour. Don't over bake or all the honey will leak out. Enjoy! Linda c

If you click on the name of the bot, open the page, and look for "Activity" for all recent posts. Flag all you can. I am getting the feeling that we are circling the drain and that the end is near. They dropped the retail business, and they used to delete canned ham once a week or so. Now, they ignore it. Sounds like one person trying to keep a finger in the dike. But Spike used to keep things in order, didn't he?