yes - you can do it. Or you can give them a feed with a weak solution of the fish emulsion or manure tea or alfa alfa tea - weak is the word - or you can give them an epsom salt supplement - I guess 1/2 teaspoon per gallon. Or all the above. Or nothing at all. The most important thing is to keep a good eye on the plant - because tired look, loss of shine on the leaves, droopiness - it can be a sign of root rot - and the plant is going to keel over very soon. So - investigate the stem at the soil level and slightly under - and if it is it - cut the crown, remove the big leaves and reroot. good luck Irina

thyme - definitely remove the seedheads from the big tulips and daffodils as soon as you see them start to form - actually, as soon as the tulips drop their petals and the daffodil flowers start to fade, I cut the flowerstalk down to the base. It reduces the 'mess' factor considerably by not having that dead-straight yellowing stalk poking up. It's easier to hide the basal leaves among other plants than it is to try to hide that stalk! But the small 'botanical' tulips and dwarf type daffodils should be allowed to set seed because most of those will spread nicely from seed without as much weakening of the 'mother' bulb - or at least the seedlings get to flowering size before the 'mother' bulb wears out. Judy - tulips are usually recommended to be planted about 6" deep - I aim for 8" in heavier soil and 10" or more in lighter soil (which I don't have!) In your climate, I'd think planting deep would increase their odds of returning for more years. Another important factor I think is to not water where they are too much during their dormant period. I don't think they like that. So make sure any companion perennials are not water-hogs that you need to provide a lot of supplemental water to in the summer. If I know I want to divide or move a clump, I wait until the foliage is ready to be removed and do it then (usually early July here). I that is not good timing (e.g. because I have to move/lift the companion perennial too and it's not a good time to disturb that plant...) I just mark where the bulbs are, either by leaving a bit of the old stems showing or put a few sticks in the ground or something like that... Then I can find them easily again when the time is right to move them. When we dig them, we start the hole back from the edge of where we've marked the bulb location. We know how deep them are, so it's fairly easy to dig them up without too much risk of damage.

It's understandable to want flowers asap but from a good gardening point of view you don't really want those new plants to put energy into blossoming until they have built up a good strong root system. It is sensible to remove any flower buds which do form until the plant has reached a reasonable size, has a strong root system and a good branching structure (not just multiple leaves). This can be achieved by pinching out.

Being in Canada, I can't let my peppers grow year-round. Also, its beneficial to me to cut the flowers at a specific time before the first average frost date. That date is Nov. 5th in my region, and I cut 35-40 days before that (end of September). What do you guys do?