I'm coming to the discussion late but had to weigh in. Imagine if you saw people in the neighborhood making and eating some stuff out of flour and water and a some lesser ingredients. After it was mixed together, they baked it, smeared some butter on it and it was heavenly delicious! They called it bread. When you tried to copy it at home, you didn't know about the yeast so your attempt at making bread was a disaster. How can something one place can be so delicious and somewhere else, inedible? But that, in fact, is what's happening with crape myrtle pruning on a grand scale. While I fully support the annual pruning (which can be done anytime during the dormant season) I notice that upwards of 90 or 95 percent of the pruning is done poorly, or horribly and could rightfully be termed "crape myrtle murder." But I think this term is unfortunate as, instead of persuading the fearful and uninformed to learn a better pruning strategy, it causes them to not prune at all or only very little. If crape myrtle pruning did not produce SOME beneficial effects, it would cease. So even if done poorly, some good effects result: larger, healthier looking leaves... larger bloom clusters... leaves retained longer into the season... longer lasting blooms... arching branches that nearly create a "weeping" form. These effects, to some degree, come even with the worst pruning jobs. If the pruning is done well, one also benefits by having a "tree" whose form is impeccable, whose size is appropriate to its setting, whose trunk structure is a sculptural object in and of itself and whose overall presence is commanding of its space. A well pruned crape is a sight to behold. Unfortunately, we almost never see one. The terms "tree" and "shrub" are ill defined divisions within the woody plants. I use them to explain FORM, not size: A tree is a woody plant with one or more trunks (vertical) in which the bottom branches (horizontal) are absent. A shrub is a woody plant with multiple trunks (vertical) in which the branches (horizontal) are retained so that foliage is continuous to the ground. Most plants that we call trees, if left to grow in the middle of a sunny field and never pruned, would qualify as shrubs. Plants that we think of as "shrubs" sometimes lose their bottom branches and turn into "trees." It's pretty easy to see that the area between "trees" and "shrubs" contains a lot of "grey." What is the nature of a crape myrtle left to its own devices? It would definitely be a shrub... a very large shrub as crapes can climb to the 40' height range. At such a size, it's spread would likely be 25' or so. It begins to become obvious that if we let woody plants only grow "naturally" we would be barely be able to contain any of them in our yards. So like the maples and oaks, we frequently limb up crape myrtles and other large shrubs by removing their lower branches. Even those who tend to be against altering plants via pruning, are almost universally content to turn crape myrtles into "trees." The question becomes, TO WHAT HEIGHT should crape myrtles be limbed up? The bottom of a tree canopy forms a "ceiling." I suggest that the answer is contained in the idea that plants are serving the needs of humans. When has a person ever found it desirable to have a ceiling dragging on their hair or smacking them in the face? Ceilings created by plants should clear the human head. That means that they will be no lower than 7' at the extreme. But like ceilings in houses, often higher "feels" better than lower so there is rarely an objection to limbing up further. (I'm speaking of how the SPACE seems... not the object within the space.) Look around at the crape myrtles you see pruned... or "murdered." How many of them are cut to a height of only four to six feet? This means that all the branching will occur not above one's head, but directly in one's face. Instead of being a ceiling to walk under, crapes become visual and physical obstructions. (Scroll up to look, again, at the photo posted by pabrocb. This is a very typical pruning.) While you're looking, also take a good look at the trunk structure. (pabrocb, I'm not trying to pick on your crape, I just need a photo to use and yours is already here and it works. But it would be one of thousands.) There is predominantly one main vertical trunk. Two smaller trunks break off to the right and left, defining the overall "V" shape of the plant, within which are a couple more minor "whips." The trunk system viewed from above might look like half an asterisk. For a moment, let's imagine what a handsome bouquet of flowers in a crystal vase looks like. Are the stems organized... or crossing chaotically from any direction? Are they of disparate sizes... or similar? Are they uniform of texture... or with a patchwork of random leaves attached at any point? When viewed from above, are they full (3-dimensionally)... or is their form like that partial asterisk? Take a quick look at a vase of flowers to see why it has appeal. I suggest that putting to use some of the principles employed in creating the vase of flowers when pruning a crape, can produce a plant with statesman-like stature... rather than one that appears to have been for some time homeless. I hunted Google images for an example of a crape myrtle pruned in the way I'm describing, but couldn't find even one ideal example. There are runners up but nothing on the money. I'm attaching a sketch that gives an idea of what I suggest makes a useful and beautiful crape. Nowhere in my discussion am I claiming that a crape myrtle grown in the tree form and left unpruned (as in Kate's example directly above) is undesirable, ugly or in some way without merit. They make beautiful, "natural" looking trees. But... there are many times that one does not want the 20 or 30-foot height... or the smaller, more sparse foliage, or the upright habit or the thinner, more sparse flowering, etc., etc. In these cases, annual pruning CAN turn a crape myrtle into a very useful and beautiful, "right sized" plant. When done properly, even the leafless winter form--beheaded or not--can be an outstanding sight. Also, there is another feature of annually pruned crapes that develops over time if one is consistent in their pruning... that is the formation of swollen, "paddle"-like woody structures at the tips of the trunks. These are hard to describe to one who has never seen them. They become large and let the crape take on a persona reminiscent of a strange and exotic undersea creature... or an unusual artistic sculpture. At least, they are fascinating and interesting conversation pieces. To those who ARE murdering their crapes, you might consider making a few changes to your pruning methods so here's a few tips: If the trunk structure is not good (like a full bouquet) there is nothing you can do but start over. However, you should know if you've ever cut down an undesirable weed sapling in an attempt to get rid of it, it will grow back (with more trunks) in very short order. I wouldn't hesitate to cut a crape back to about 18" right before the spring growing season. It will regrow with many more trunks. (This process is called 'rejuvenation.') Each year evaluate it's structure and if there are not enough trunks, cut it back to half its height. Eventually, there will be enough where you want them. Remove any trunks that start on one side and cross over through the center to the other side. They should all radiate in an outward direction from the center in order to appear organized. After much looking, I consider the ideal "V" shape spread to be about 45*. Narrower than that, crapes just don't look like they have as much money in their pocket. Wider than that, the trunks start appearing or becoming obstructions to use of the space they're in... so it depends on the setting. So I remove any trunks or cut them back so that only those within this imagined cone remain. Trunks are more vertical than 45*; branches are more horizontal than 45*. When doing the annual dormant season pruning, remove all branches and let only trunks remain. In general, cut back the trunk length to one half of the recent year's growth. It will be a mistake to leave it all as it terminates in weak, thin growth of not uniform height. Trimming it back by half allows growth to the overall height of the tree, helps it to keep an organized appearing presence and keeps the trunks stout and strong relative to the weight and burden of the coming growing season. (The trunks also need to "branch" a little on their up in order that the cone shape continues to be full of trunks as it widens out.) Cut all trunks straight across the top. If they are cut at varying heights they do not look good. It is much more bother to create a "domed" appearance and it does not look good either. Straight is easiest and best. As, and after the tree branches out, completely remove all branches that occur below half the height of the tree. While the new branches are just buds or soft growth, this can be done very quickly with the wipe of a gloved hand. Yesterday, I cleaned up a small crape (about 6' ht.) for my mom and it took about 20 minutes. Almost all of the small, twiggy branches can be knocked off with any weighty implement. Strike downward (but not actually scraping off bark) alongside the trunk and they will just quickly pop off. I usually do this with my closed hand pruners, but a machete or even a heavy screwdriver will work. Over a few years, a crape will work it's way upward so that you are cutting the main trunks at the final height of 8' above the ground. This is what I would consider the minimum. It works out pretty well for having the canopy clear a person's head. And it's a cutting height that one can do while standing on the ground... with a good set of loppers. A 5' height person would need a small step-stool to do this job. Depending on the circumstances of the setting, a higher final trunk cutting height might be desired. I know there are plenty of people who will always prefer a "natural" look and will never want to grow a crape as I describe. I'm not trying to convince them to change. But if one likes the features and benefits that annual pruning of crapes provides, I hope they consider looking "beyond leaves and flowers" and examine how much more improved a crape can be if its structure is properly shaped and organized and given the attention it deserves. Then any common crape can become an outstanding specimen. Hopefully, soon, the homicide rate will begin to fall. I realize, also, that my method is contrary to the majority of advice given about maintaining crapes: "Let 3 or 4 main trunks remain." "Cut at 6' height." "Every so often, remove old trunks and let them be replaced with new ones." This is pat horticultural shrub maintenance advice with no regard to the design aspect or purpose a plant serves. Even though I have a degree in horticulture, I've been happily disregarding this advice for decades.

Bobbi, you are simply experiencing the difference in 3000 yrs. of civilization, vs. 300 yrs. of civilization. It really does make a big difference. For me, I found the differences in Europe very preferential to those in the US, in many ways. However, that was 40 yrs. ago, and like the US, things have changed. (I monitor the BBC on a daily basis.) Also like the US, the governments there, really don't have a clue, about what needs to be done in today's world, to save the planet, or make the world a better place, or if they do, they aren't willing to take the necessary steps to make the changes happen. Be assured though, that in many countries today, people have become over educated. If you look hard at the numbers, you will find entirely too high a number of college graduates, and even those with advanced degrees, working well below their educational levels. There are a number of reasons for that, but it isn't likely to change any time in the foreseeable future. On the contrary, the probabilities are strong that even more of our population will be working below their educational level, in the future. The divisions between the rich and the non-rich will continually cause people to attempt to improve their situation, but in fact, that will be difficult to do. The "American dream" is now more of a myth than a reality. I don't see that much of a difference in Great Britain, to be honest. They will be following in the same sort of path, and so, it is only sensible that they consider a practical approach to educational levels. I have watched the erosion in the US, over the past 50 yrs. of a country with great strengths, to a country with little more than great ideals. The strengths are gone, the lifestyle is far worse, and the future prospects are very limited. Such is the impact of far too extensive, and far too rapid growth, in world population. Since no one is doing ANYTHING about that problem, there is little chance of future improvement in today's conditions. On the contrary, the probability is very high, that conditions will actually worsen. So.....the practicality of being a plumber, an HVAC technician, etc., is certainly something to consider. After all....almost all of the jobs in this country today are medical or computer related....and the computer industry is reaching its plateau, where advances are going to slow down considerably. So....unless you can qualify to get into the medical field, as a doctor, dentist, nurse, pharmacist, etc........which typically requires very high GPA's in high school and very high scores on the college entrance exams, your ooportunities are going to be very limited. The odds of that are 15 to 1 against you. (At least in my medical college.)

THank you all so much for writing...it's been a roller-coaster of a day...I called the dentist back and said that it was worse than ever, not subsiding, just growing -- he folded and referred me to an endodontist, but I couldn't call them until after 5, so I won't know if I can be seen until tomorrow morning. By around 5:30 as I was driving DD to orchestra, it finally HIT so bad I was ready to go to an ER. I was sweating, panting from the pain, and felt faint...oh my gosh it was bad and just getting worse...luckily DH met me at the orchestra place and he drove me at first to a dental ER, but I REFUSED to let them see me because it seemed so shady (weirdly, I got definite vibes not to let them near me, and the weirdness was confirmed by the completely inappropriate behavior of the people behind the desk and the questions on the registration sheet -- how many medical offices make you write the name of your "Financial Institution" and warn you about the fee if you don't call within 24 hours of your next appointment before even handing you the *long* registration form??! but I digress)...by then I had given in and taken an extra half tramadol, just because I was going completely insane with the pain. I would categorize it as the second worst pain I've ever felt--first being childbirth. But I think the tramadol what did the trick because in about 45 minutes I was living again, doing errands with DH while we waited for DD. I can feel it's coming back again now, but I know now how to control it until tomorrow morning. jbrig, thank you for the clarification -- you're right, I was being too broad-brush and ended up just being wrong -- I think I was thinking of the prostaglandin-inhibiting and the anti-inflammatory effects of ibuprofen (or at least that's what I had been told). Thanks for correcting me. Funny that you should mention the tramadol/flexeril, because those are what I take -- the tramadol in the daytime for fibro and the flexeril at night (low dose, as a muscle relaxer as you mention). camlan, WOW...that's scary...how did they end up finding it? Do you have complete resolution now and you're pain-free? And Pat, I'm sorry to hear you've had that situation for years...I can only imagine what it must be like for that long. Could TN2 include the feeling that teeth are about to explode? INTENSE ache? I'll bring it up with the endodontist tomorrow. I can feel a tooth throbbing now, starting the wind-up. I really appreciate your all's understanding, help and good wishes so much. I'll post back about the endodontist. THANK YOU!

I've had the same problem with some computers...I think it might be the styro-foam packing. Whatever it was, it was terrible for about six weeks, every time my husband turned on the computer. Eventually, it finally 'burned off' or whatever, but it can be annoying and it gave me a bit of a headache. My friend had a similar problem with new carpet in her basement. It was installed in the winter and she couldn't open the windows. Can you store the stools out in the garage for a month or two, until the offgassing is a bit better? Do you think it's the vinyl...or maybe being stored in a warehouse and the vinyl just picked up some other odors?