None that are manipulated in the exact same way, but we only ever teach each other that the only bee that can do this work is the honey bee. We never teach each other that one of the New England tribes (don't know which) called them "white man's flies" - because they were. The colonists introduced them. Humans lived on this continent for at least ten millenia without ever knowing honey bees even existed because there were none here, only in the old world where the bees come from. The honey bee is native to western Asia, Europe, and most especially Africa. There are somewhere between three and seven other species of bees in the same genus (Apis), but all of those are in Asia (including the Philippines, so you have to define "Asia" loosely). There are many, many species of bees native to the US (including many in the honey bee family, but in a different genus - Bombus, the bumble bees), but none of them make beeswax or honey in a manner that allows it to be extracted from the hive. Then again, if you talk to a beekeeper you'll rapidly learn that beeswax and honey aren't worth much in this country. Regarding honey bees' pollination skills, there are actually bees that are better at pollinating some crops. Honey bees are so bad about alfalfa that those farmers long ago gave up depending on honey bees. Many or most now depend on other species for pollination. Apple growers have to put in extra hives when the trees bloom because when you put a honey bee hive in a blooming apple orchard most of the foragers ignore the apple blossoms and spend most of their time on the blooming dandelions under the trees! Honey bees are also reluctant pollinators of blueberries and cranberries.

you used a systemic... and expect it to work in 10 days ...??? you need some patience .... research.. or call bayer.. and ask how long it takes to move through the whole plant .... and become effective .... i figure.. not being properly hardened off.. putting them outside will kill them ... in my z5 .... why are they indoors?? .... next year... if the bugs don't drive you insane this year ... use the systemic.. about one month prior to bringing them in the house... so that they come in the house clean .... prevention works a whole lot better than cure .... if they will fit in the shower .... and you have a hose end sprayer ... ... you might be able to give them a good hard shower on the undersides... to wash them off .. i might go as far as bagging the pot so as to not over-saturate the soil .. the systemic will take care of whats in the pot ... BTW .. did you drench the medium .. or just spray on the leaves .... i know that bugs in the house can be maddening.. been there... dealt with that .... but please... take great care in over using chemicals in the house ... good luck ken

Khalid wrote in another thread: "Then I stopped spraying even any organic matter. I gave more calcium to my roses which made the soft branches and leaves harder thus making it relatively unattractive for the pests. This reduced the affected bushes / leaves to a good extent." Agree with Khalid, folks in rainy climate lime their soil, either in late fall or early spring, depending on how many inches of rain they get. Rain is acidic at pH 5.6, as the pH drops, less calcium and potassium are available. The best lime to use is Espoma Garden Lime (sold at Walmart for $10 per 5 lb.). It has 20% calcium and 10% magnesium ... both are essential in keeping leaves thick so pests cannot invade. From the above chart, around pH 5.6 (rain water), less molybdenum, less magnesium, less calcium are available. Next nutrients that are less: phosphorus, potassium, and nitrogen. I already posted in Organic Rose my experiment that I did with 2 identical Thai basil: I lowered the pH of one with acidic cracked corn (pH 4), plus gypsum (17% sulfur) .. that Thai basil' leaves became pale, plus THINNER due to less calcium and magnesium available. Then I saw blackspots on a Thai basil for the 1st time !! The other basil I planted in my alkaline clay (pH near 8), and it's twice taller plus really thick & glossy leaves (more available nitrogen, potassium, sulfur, calcium, and magnesium). But leaves were just a bit pale due to less iron at high pH, so I gave it blood meal, has chelated iron, and leaves became dark green. I once planted a bok-choy vegetable next to my patio with a limestone base, so the soil is very alkaline, pH 8. The leaves were dark-green, but its so tough that I boiled it for one hour, and it's STILL so fibrous that my teeth can't handle, let alone some tiny pests like aphids, rose slugs, or midge. Rose slugs (sawfly larvae) are very rare in my alkaline clay, unless I lower the pH with my experiments: Put acidic cracked corn (pH 4) in potting soil, and roses got rose-slugs from THINNER LEAVES in acidic rain (calcium, magnesium, and potassium drops when pH drops). Mirandy rose got a big-fat rose-slug on it for the 1st time. Why? It's next to a tree, and the tree robs the soil of calcium, magnesium, and potassium. Plus tree roots secret acid, so the soil became even more acidic with rain (pH of rain is 5.6). Used molasses, plus vinegar, plus sulfate of potash (21% sulfur), plus gypsum (17% sulfur) ... such acidic solution made leaves thinner, plus the stinky molasses really attract sawfly which give birth to rose-slugs. CONCLUSION: The best solution for pests is to raise soil pH by using dolomitic lime such as Espoma Garden lime (20% calcium and 10% magnesium). My soil is dolomitic clay, so I don't have midge, rose-slugs (sawfly larvae), nor aphids, unless I use acidic fertilizer. When there's tons of acidic rain, I throw pea-gravel on top of roses that like it alkaline, pea-gravel has many alkaline minerals to make leaves thick, glossy, and to prevent pests.

If you feel you need to spray with a miticide, try something with the active ingredient abamectin. There are other miticides on the market, some are specialized so you need to know for sure which mite you're spraying against. Not all are advisable for roses due to the potential for tissue damage. Spray in the evening twice with 10-14 days between applications (or follow the label). If temps do not regularly exceed 83F you can mix that with light summer horticultural oil in the first application. Oil will destroy the eggs. Spray on the canes also. Always do a test spray to make sure you have no tissue damage.