How to avoid spaghetti glop?
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Freezing spaghetti sauce question
Comments (5)Yesterday, Easter Sunday, two of our kids and their mates decided on the spur of the moment to come for the day and instead of a big holiday meal...we did a Sicilian Easter Dinner. I made my canner full of red sauce (Sunday Gravy as the old timers call it) and cooked meatballs, sausage, eggs, potato's, and 6 little thin sliced steaks in the sauce. Now obviously I knew 6 of us were not going to eat that much...but I was making extra for the freezer. I have lots and lots of tomatoes planted this year and I'm hoping for a bumper crop so I can can some too....See MoreSpaghetti squash
Comments (3)Suzie, Technically all squash have the capacity to be either winter or summer squash. Squash are considered summer squash when they are harvested young and, technically speaking, immature while their skin is still soft. They are prepared and eaten within days of being harvested. Winter squash are those which are left on the vine until the skin is very hard and the seeds are mature, and they can keep for months off the vine....which is how they earned the name 'winter squash'....because they'll keep until winter. Spaghetti squash is in the Cucurbita pepo family and normally is used as a winter squash, but some people harvest the spaghetti squash fruit while they are young and small and cook them and eat them the same way they cook and eat the typical summer squash like yellow crookneck or yellow straightneck. You can plant spaghetti squash seeds in the ground anytime after soil temperatures have reached 60 degrees and daily high temps are staying at or above 65 degrees. A hybrid variety named Tivoli is one winter squash that a lot of people grow. I understand why you are leery about planting squash because of its pest issues. To a certain extent I feel the same way, but we love to eat squash so I plant it anyway. There are several things you can do to help you combat squash bugs. First of all, they overwinter in mulch and debris. If you use raised beds bordered with stone or wood, they often overwinter underneath or up against the woods or stones. You can seek them out and destroy them. If you have plant debris left from last year, squash bugs may be overwintering in it, and you may need to destroy it. If it has been on a compost pile, turn the pile often to bury any overwintering pests deep in the pile where, hopefully, its internal heat will destroy them. While I generally don't worry much about crop rotation in a home garden, I do try to rotate my squash plants every year. If you plant this year's squash in the same place you grew last year's squash, that's just asking for trouble. My squash this year will be growing about 200' from where it grew last year. I realize most home gardeners don't have a garden plot large enough to rotate the squash very far, but moving it as far as you can from last year's area---even if you only move it 15 or 20' still is better than not moving it at all. There are no good, solid, reliable organic controls for squash bugs (or squash vine borers either, which is a whole different can of worms). There is no magic bullet, no guaranteed way to kill them. As organic gardeners, we just have to use all the methods we can to try to control them. In addition to rotation, this includes scouting plant leaves for eggs. If you can find and destroy the eggs before they hatch, you can lessen the damage a great deal. It sure is easier to scrape eggs off a leaf and squish them than it is to catch and destroy nymphs or adult bugs. You can use a hand-held vaccum (it needs to be a high-quality one with a lot of suction!) to suck up the bugs. I keep a bucket of soapy water handy and dump the bugs from the vacuum into it to drown. You can use a shop vac in the same way if your garden is close enough to an electrical source that you can run an extension cord to the vac. If you do that, if you'll put a few inches of water in the cannister of the shop vac before you start and put a couple of drops of dish soap in that water, the bugs will drown after they are sucked up into the shop vac, making them easier to dispose of after you're done. You can hand-pick and squish the nymphs and adult bugs (I hate doing this....if you grow a lot of squash it consumes a lot of your time) or flick them into a soapy bowl of water to drown. While mulch is wonderful and beneficial in general, the squash bugs hide in it so you might consider mulching the ground under your squash plants with a couple of old boards. The bugs will crawl under the boards during the worst heat of the day and usually at night too. You can flip over the board and step on the bugs before they flee. One pretty useful method is to make hoops of PVC pipe or electrical conduit and drape a lightweight floating row cover over the hoops. Secure it tightly to the ground. That will exclude the pests from your plants assuming there aren't any of them residing in the ground where you planted the squash. Once the flowers start to bloom, you'll have to remove the floating row cover so insects can pollinate the squash blossoms, or you can briefly lift the row cover, hand-pollinate the squash, and then replace the row cover. I do not know of any organic pesticides that are effective on squash bugs, but there might be some....I've never tried any of them since I generally avoid all pesticides, even the organic ones, as much as possible. I do a couple of other things to combat squash bugs and squash vine borers---in my garden, SVBs are a worse pest than the squash bugs. I plant buckwheat as a companion plant because it attracts beneficial insects that prey upon squash pests. I also plant nasturtiums and rat-tail radishes with my squash plants. I feel like both of them repel squash bugs. Last year I didn't see a single squash bug until either late July or early August, and I had planted both summer squash and winter squash in March since it was so hot so early. Some years I never see squash bugs and some years I see them as early as May. Squash vine borers, though, always show up sooner or later, except I didn't see any in 2011 so my squash lasted all summer...for as long as I kept watering it. The best way I know to battle squash vine borers (because someone who is reading this discussion of squash bugs is likely thinking to themself "well, what do we do about the borers?") is to plant squash from the C. moschata family. While most C. moschata squash are normally grown and harvested as winter squash, some of them can be harvested young and small and used as summer squash. Tromboncino rampicante, often referred to as zuchetta, is one winter squash that normally is harvested young and used as summer squash. I've never had SVBs bother it, but squash bugs sometimes do. This year I am trying two Asian squash, commonly called avocado squash, that are C. moschata and I am growing them as summer squash, not winter squash. That won't keep squash bugs from being an issue, perhaps, but it might mean that the SVBs won' bother them. Unfortunately, I don't know of any C. moschata that can be used as spaghetti squash, which is certainly a very unique squash. I grew many, many, many squash of all kinds here for 6 or 8 years before the squash bugs and squash vine borers discovered we were growing them here. It was wonderful. I'd grow 20-30 different types per year. We had squash coming out of our ears and had the most incredibly gorgeous fall squash and pumpkin displays. Once the SVBs and squash bugs arrived en masse, I cut back growing C. pepo and C. maxima types and now grow mostly C. moschata types. You still may have squash bug issues with them but you won't have SVBs. Some people have pretty good success spraying their squash plants with Surround WP (kaolin clay). I have had a 25-lb. bag (and I hate to admit this) of Surround WP sitting on my sunporch for at least 3 years and never have opened it and used it, though I had used Surround a couple of times when it first arrived on the market. It coats the plants and makes them roughly the same color as the squash bugs (which is sort of ironic, because it is harder to spot them!). The theory is that they don't like it and avoid plants sprayed with it. In the years I used it, it seemed to work but I hate the dusty gray look it gives to the plants, which is why I haven't used it. Also, I worry it might harm or repel the beneficial insects...and you know that I will not do anything that might harm beneficial insects which is why I rarely use even the organic pesticides. I wish you luck with your spaghetti squash. You can grow it in spring or fall, and you may find you have fewer pest issues in fall although I wouldn't bet the bank on that. Dawn...See MoreServing Spaghetti
Comments (27)A little olive oil adheres to the spaghetti and keeps it from sticking and adds to the taste and is healthy. It does NOT quit the sauce from adhering to the spaghetti unless you use some ridiculous amount, if you use the sauce you'll have to use more and mix well are it will still stick together. When spaghetti is cooked correctly and you try to serve that many plates of it from a bowl then carry it to the kitchen, then each takes his sweet time pronging out enough for just his/her plate it will be either stuck like glue and just about cold! When mix with the sauce it's the oil in the spaghetti that tries to keep it from sticking anyway. Always mix the children spaghetti with the noodles and sauce mixed on the plate and take to the child, try it any other way and you will find out why this is the "only" way to do it, parents can help serve the children!!!! You didn't say how many children so I'm assuming a "BUNCH", 3 to 6 is a bunch, anything more is a "Mob"! Try and serve them all at on once are as near to it as possible. I mentioned an off room back porch or feeding them first, it's because it's quick to clean, could be cleaned later or the parents drinking the wine will give you a hand then it's done quickly, especially if they haven't eaten yet, (psychology) What ever you do not not let the children and adults eat at the same time, DISASTER! Once the little darlings have been fed they will tire out quickly, That movie with the kids on the floor will save your life/sanity. The adults can march by the stove and help them selves to spaghetti/sauce and mix on their own with out any sticking problems (if done quickly). No fuss no muss, actually there always is so, just grin and bear it! That's basically it, I gained this "wisdom" from being raised with 6 brothers and sisters, plus on Sundays (every Sunday) there was always another 4 to 10 relatives or more not counting kids), loads of fun if done correctly, nightmare if not. You ask it I've seen it!!!!!!!!! Hints: Have a couple of rolls of paper towels handy where the kits are eating along with a couple damp dish towels. If you plan on desert, make it simple, small bowl of ice cream with some chocolate syrup (serve it at the table for the kids), not on the floor watching TV. Don't set condiments on table with kids such as cheese or whatever, have it on the spaghetti when served! Make sure the children are properly adorned, bibs on the young ones. This is the one area I am extremely familiar with, I have made it sound like a nightmare from the start but it isn't! I would just like you to be well prepared for some thing unusual to happen, not that it always does, but the possibilities are fairly large that it will. Have your camera ready or be sorry later. It's a trip but one that no family should be without. However if you are prepared you'll have a BLAST, be prepared! Please don't forget to just chill out when thing don't go according to plan, hell they never do , so just have FUN!...See MoreNeed Recs for Containers for Freezing Spaghetti Sauce
Comments (11)ci_lantro, you are my freezing clone! Have been freezing in paper milk cartons for years as well. When I make similar pasta meals/soups, etc, I line the boxes with a non-zip plastic food storage bag, de-air and use a twistie. I have never had freezer burn and am still enjoying home grown frozen apricots halves from 2005. A plain freezer zip lock is not as trustworthy IMO. When packaging a pasta dish or soup for two, I simply shorten the half gallon milk cartons-since those are the main sizes I have. Keep enough ht to fold sides and front in, fold over back side and then use a strong 1/8th inch rubberband to secure. Label and stack those "bricks." When I package our home grown chickens, one cut up chicken minus back fills one carton. Cut down cartons can hold lesser amounts. Like you, storage is in the lower level between floor joists on shelves above the freezers. Half gal-flat bottomed-Breyers icecream cartons are the other favorite storage worker. They hold zip lock (snack or sandwich) portions of berries/fruits, chutneys, asparagus, chicken livers, sauces, and eggs. Before capping, a piece of closed cell foam or bubble wrap covers all. Rubberband as well. Should admit current icecream cartons are only 1.5 qts but my vintage ones are 1/2 gal. My children and grands love to comment on previous labels on their BB10 (aka blueberries 2010 crop) gifts...and the cartons are returned as they know recycling is my mantra. Try this Juliet, and let us know if it works for you....See More- 2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoSooz thanked sleevendog (5a NY 6aNYC NL CA)
- 2 years agoSooz thanked dcarch7 d c f l a s h 7 @ y a h o o . c o m
- 2 years ago
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