Post the long model # from the tag on the rear of the deck. It sounds as tho fro, the noise that either the transmission is jumping hard enough to hit the housin g or it is getting bound up inside- which is why I'm sure you serviced it. It may be time...

I tried both and I find the rear-drive very awkward and very difficult while pivoting the mower to the other direction. With front-drive, all I do is raise the front and quickly turn the mower to the other direction. My target is to quickly and efficiently mow my lawn and not tinker with the clutch at all; who wants that? With rear-drive, I have to disengage every time when I need to turn directions ... making my expensive mower a push mower during the attempt and tremendously slowing my momentum ... and of course, I have to engage again to move forward. If you have the mower on fast while doing this, you will find yourself fighting the mower every time you want to start on the new direction. You are not controlling the mower, its controlling you. Think about it, being able to raise the front wheels will allow you to turn the mower on 2 wheels; that is turning on a dime. If you have 4 wheels, you are going to make several small movements to realign your mower to the new direction while stroking your clutch on every attempt. IÂm returning my rear-drive today for a front-wheel drive.

I see that a few times a summer. Usually the persons concern is that they have difficulty pulling the engine over or simply that the drive quit. The best you can do is to ensure that the lower guard is in place and the debris kept out. Also, these short belts have a lot to do and simply wear thin. 175436 is your belt#, it isn't one of the more common belts, but it can be ordered from Sears or any EHP dealer. It would be in your best interest to replace the belt with a new one and ensure that the drive pulley is clean before you put the belt on. You still want to pull the drive wheels and inspect those gears + lube the wheel studs and clutches. (Once a year :) **Tom - thanks for the reply. When I dug into it, I found the fan belt had jumped off the drive shaft ( blade spindle). Was able to get it back on and mower seems to being doing fine again, Question is: Why did it jump off the pulley in the first place? Paul**

Okay, I've actually done both myself. I'd say "it all depends" is the answer. - Tile on Slab: I removed two bathrooms worth of tile in our fairly new house. The builder used substandard materials and the tile de-laminated within the 2nd year of the house. No it was not covered by the warranty. I used a demolition hammmer to break up the tile off the floor. I duct-taped my shop vac hose to the shaft of the 'bit' and used a concrete dust bag in the shop vac to keep the dust down. I think this worked pretty well but still had some clean up. But this leaves a rough surface of thinset. So the next step is a 4.5" angle grinder with a diamond cup wheel and a dust collecting housing. Again connected to the shop-vac. It works REALLY well. The thinset is litterally just vacummed up off the floor. Still it was a lot of hard work but left the slab as clean as the day it was poured. I could even see the builders marking on the slab of where to put junction boxes, vents etc. - Tile on concrete backer board. It depends on how well the backerboard is attached, but a pry bar under the backerboard (which was nailed not screwed) removed the tile in minutes with no dust. If it were screwed I might have been screwed too. ;-) - Tile backsplash in Kitchen. I just got through removing the builders idea of a custom backsplash... the same tile as the floor tile. This was placed over dry wall and there is no way you are going to remove tile off dry wall. The dry wall will be ruined. So I took a multi-tool and cut along the top and bottom of the backsplash (between the countertop and upper cabinet) and then used my demo hammer to break up the backsplash which came out pretty easily. So the only thing left was the studs. After some wiring work I just replaced the drywall. Again I ran the shop vac right next to the tool which really cut down on the dust. But not dust free. A pro would use other, larger tools. Maybe air powered tools. Maybe walk-behind tools. These might generate a lot more dust. I was used a floor machine with a sand paper disk to prep a slab and it was a dust nightmare. Luckily that house was empty at the time. If you are going to do this yourself you can control the dust reasonably well. Use a bag in your shop-vac rated for concrete dust and run the shop vac as close to the tool as you can at all times. First time using Picasa Web Album... hope it works.. GW Album From GW Album From GW Album From GW Album