Andrea - sometimes it is difficult to imagine what we are talking about. I like pictures. Actually feeling with my hands is better, but pictures will do. When we talk about adding perlite to a mix, we mean at least 50/50. Measure with whatever you have - a scoop, a measuring cut, a Dixie cup. Do a scoop of soil, and a scoop of perlite. In the end, it should look really chunky, like this. That is a 50/50 mix of the Miracle Gro C&S mix. I know it says right on the MG bag that it is the "Fast Draining Formula", but just like the sand in a mix, they are wrong about using this alone for our succulents. That 50/50 mix doesn't work for me on everything. It stays too wet during my summers when we get rain every day. But it may be perfect for your conditions if you are keeping the plant indoors (or you don't get 50-70 inches of rain over the summer - LOL). When we mention grit, most of us mean granite chicken grit. It is this size - And Turface is a calcined clay product that retains water but drains quickly. Some people also use NAPA floor dry with good results. And my mix is perlite, Turface and granite grit. It looks like this - A lot of people add bark to their mix. I don't because it breaks down into compost quickly in my warm wet weather. But it does work quite well for others. I've used ReptiBark from the pet store right out of the bag. I hope these pictures help. And as Stush said, your other plants look good! And I really like that new pot you have for your Aloes. Good luck!

Best to stick to one post, https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6245616/tips-for-front-yard-landscaping-plants-and-trees-zone-6 tj

@ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5 - my SO actually is the one who wanted to remove the damaged leaves - I assumed that we should just leave the rest alone (after I removed the two broken ones). My plan for the winter is to “over winter” it indoors. I have an area in my kitchen with a V shaped area with six sets of double stacked windows from the floor to (almost) ceiling (plus, that area vaults up to right under 14’). The six windows on the bottom start at about 5” off the floor and are 75” in height + there is a second set of six windows above those. This area faces west. Currently, I have a large square table that seats 8 (turned so it fits perfectly into the V shape) in the V area. However, I am renovating my kitchen - and my plan is to put a small pedestal table with two comfortable chairs in there to have a coffee nook. I’ve empty nested - my SO and I typically eat at the island + I have a dining room. I will still be able to expand the pedestal table to seat eight when needed. Switching out the table will open up an area for this banana plant + two other plants that I have in containers (not sure of the exact names of those two plants - I am very new to this). Also, I am going to finish my basement in the next 18 months or so - it is a side walkout + I will be adding a couple more windows. I will be able to move him down there if needed in the future. I bought this plant (plus the other two in photos below) from a local nursery about 5-6 weeks ago for only $100 (for all three). It was a complete impulse buy - so, I didn’t research anything about the three plants ahead of time. I appreciate any wisdom you’d be willing to share!

Camellias are beautiful and long lived. You want to give them room. Try to think of the future 20 years from now. They can be moved when dormant in the cool months but ideally, you dont want to be digging them up because they were planted too close together. Better to pot them up in larger pots on ideal soil until you get their locations prepared rather than put them in smaller holes that are prepared with tjust ok soil. I like a potting mix I make myself. One part peat and one part pumice. Mix that together. Then add 1/4 of that volume in sand and 1/4 good garden soil. If its clay use the topmost part and break it up so no clods or stones or big roots. Then add some charcoal from a wood fire ---not the ashes just the charcoal bits washed clean with a hose. Maybe a shovel full or 2. Dont use a fertilizer in the mix or in the planting hole. Camellias dont want manure or anything too strong. They prefer a good mulch that breaks down over time. Something like oak leaf or redwood but any good weed free leaf mulch is nice. Keep it well away from the trunk. Let the roots be near the top and dont smother with too much soil. The roots should be near the top and then a light leafy cover to shade them and hold moisture in. I have some on a gentle sloping area so they can not stand in water. Raised planting areas work very well. It has to drain wherever you are putting them. Think about them being small trees in 50 years. Kramers Supreme is a prettier red with more fragrance in early morning sun here. I moved that pot around for 5 years to get the best location. If youre not in a hurry you can try out different spots before you plant. No hot midday or afternoon sun! Late day slanted light is ok but dont let the plants get hit by harsh drying winds if you can help it. Filtered light under a tree is good. I have one by my front door that lost its protective tree. Every late spring-fall I have to put up a shade cloth to protect it from the direct hot sun. Off it comes when the sun gets lower in the sky and flowers beautifully into March. By early May the cover goes up again. So you can modify locations that are not ideal. The more soil you can replace with improved soil, the happier your plants will be. Keep the mulch on and water generously in the warm months. Camellias dont like drought at all.