There are very few plants that satisfy a significant % of their nutritive needs via nutrients dissolved in water that contacts their foliage. The primary pathway for nutrient movement into almost all terrestrial plant material is through the roots. Foliar feeding is used in agricultural situations where a scarcity of one or more nutrients has been identified, and the plant is growing so rapidly that nutritive (plant) demand is greater than the plant's ability to supply (take up) isolated nutrients. Rarely is a complete fertilizer sprayed on foliage; rather, it might be a solution containing Fe, Z, Mn, or any of the other nutrients in attempt to alleviate a deficiency of an already identified nutrient, or sometimes more than one. In containers, plants almost never grow at rates that find the plant's ability to absorb insufficient to support it's growth rate, so if you do see significant improvement in your plants growth rate or appearance, it's a fairly good indicator that something is acting to inhibit the primary pathway or the grower isn't providing all the essential nutrients at a favorable rate and ratio. If you DO provide nutrients in a favorable rate/ratio, and root function isn't inhibited by poor conditions in the rhizosphere, you should see virtually NO difference in growth rate or appearance after foliar feeding. Also, when applying fertilizer via foliar application, it doesn't necessarily correct deficiencies. Nutrients that are immobile in the plant cannot effectively be moved throughout the entire organism, so you really are only providing a stopgap remedy. Any foliage that grows after application of immobile nutrients is still going to be deficient unless that nutrient is taken up so it enters the nutrient stream. An excess of any one nutrient can be as limiting as a deficiency, so make it your goal to ensure all the nutrients plants normally get from the soil and that are essential to normal growth are in the soil at all times, in a ratio that closely mimics that at which the plant actually uses the nutrients, and at a concentration high enough to ensure no deficiencies yet low enough that it doesn't inhibit the plant's ability to take up water and the nutrients dissolved in water. Conceptually, that would be the perfect way to fertilize, and it's not difficult for the hobby grower to get very, very close to getting it just right, using only one fertilizer, if some consideration is given to its selection. Al

I have done some recent testing with my Honeywell tstats and the CPH adjustment definately changes the cycle rate, but it takes a while for the settings to reach a steady state. I lowered mine from 3 to 2 and the average number of cycles per hour dropped accrodingly, but it took at least 2 hours to see a rotuine, repeatable cycle per hour rate. When the cycles decreased the ON time for each cycle increased. I also measured the swing in the various room temperatures: they increased from a +/- 0.5 degree swing with CPH=3 to a +/- 1.5 degree swing with CPH=2 which I did not like, so I eventually reset the CPH back to 3. The techs you talked to at Honeywell must not understand the software running in the tstat. I found a nice description of the Honeywell P+I algorithm way in the back of the Vision PRO documentation - and I believe that same algorithm is used in the other PRO tstats (I have 3210 PRO non programmable digital tstats). If you read the description of this algorithm, you can see that it is a combination of room temperture/set temp differential and long term room temperture trend that the tstat uses to decide when to call for heat and how often. In your case it may be that even with a lower CPH change the tstat will still come on more frequently beacause the differential between room and set to temperature is also a factor. How are you measuring the room temperture? One thing I noticed is that it takes quite a while for the stat to reach normal operation when you change the settings - and this makes sense after reading the manual on the P+I algorithm. I let it run with the new settings for 12 hours, and took 2 sets of measurements: one set at night and the other in the early morning for 3 hours worth of cycling each. I evaluated both sets of readings, and made one GW post for advise, before making any decisions on re-adjustment of CPH. The other thing I learned is that the Honeywell "Room Temp" has quite a range on it - something like +/- 2 or 3 deg. So while the tstat was showing a room temp of 65 even when I lowered CPH to 2, the actual temp swing I measured in that room was 64 to 66 which I verified with a standalone thermometer that i placed on a stand right next to the wall tstat. Prior to the CPH chnage, that room alawys stayed in the 64.2 to 65.2 range. This room temp display range is also described in the Vision PRO manual - and with the Vision PRO device you can actually change the tstat so that it displays the actual room tempertaure, which I cannot do that with my tstat. That alone was a good discovery for me. I don't know how you did your testing. Even with the decision to change to a different tstat, i would still test the Honeywell unit throughly so you have a good baseline from which to compare. Use independent thermometers in a few rooms to measure the temp at the on and off times with the CPH at the recommended manual setting and then again with the change to a lower CPH. Make measurements at night and in the early morning when the outside temps are lowest,and do this for a few hours of cycling. It is a pain to do but the data will be useful when you compare the results with the new tstat. After chnaging to the new tstat, I would repeat the tests and compare. There is a lot happening behind the scenes in these digital tstats. You have to get into the details of not only what algorithm the tstat uses for contolling heat ON/OFF, but also what algorithm it uses for displaying the room temp. best of luck.

Regarding not reaching 70, I assume that the average temperature dropped in the house due to in=and-out activity that might also tend to distribute the mass of cold air from our less insulated rear porch. The next scheduled event is back down to 62 at 8:00 a.m. I couldn't find the American Standard install manual online, but the same thermostat is available from Trane. I have excerpted what I think are the relevant controls to play with. I did look at these once, but was frankly too put off by all the double negatives such as, "disables the 10 minute inhibit" and "Heating Aggressive Recovery can only be enabled if Aggressive Recovery is disabled." I'll be back home in two weeks and I can try to adjust these. Naturally, I will ask for advice here on anything I'm unsure of. Aggressive Recovery: This option disables the 10 minute inhibit anytime the thermostat sees more than a 2° change (such as moving from one program time frame to another). This applies to heating & cooling modes. Heating Aggressive Recovery: This option disables the 10 minute inhibit based on outdoor temperature in heating mode only. The value for outdoor temperature can be set from 0°��"70°. Heating Aggressive Recovery can only be enabled if Aggressive Recovery is disabled.There is a 10 minute “inhibit” period between first and second stage compressor as well as compressor heating & supplemental strip heat. This 10 minute inhibit period minimizes the cycling of higher capacity request due to drafts around the thermostat or marginal load conditions. Cycle Rate The cycle rate affects the cycle time of the system. With a 50% load value, a cycle rate of 3 will allow the system to run for 10 minutes and be off for 10 minutes; completing 3 cycles in one hour. A cycle rate of 5 would allow the system to cycle on and off at 6 minute intervals. The higher the cycle rate, the more often the system turns on and off. The actual amount of time the system will be “on” or “off” will be reflective in the load value of the home. Higher load value demands will increase system run time and decrease system off time. Lower load value demands will decrease system run time and increase system off time.Emergency HeatThe heat pump will be disabled and the furnace / heat strips are enabled any time the thermostat is set to Emergency Heat. Lockouts System lockouts will disable a certain function of the system under specific outdoor temperatures:Compressor Heating Lockout • ��" will lockout all compressor operation below a set outdoor temperature (from 5°��"70°). This value must be set lower than the auxiliary heat lockout. Auxiliary Heating Lockout • ��" will lock out auxiliary heat stages above a set outdoor temperature (from 40°��"70°). This value must be set higher than the compressor heating lockout. Defrost Heater Balance Point • for W1, W2 & W3 ��" will lock out specific auxiliary heat stages when above a set outdoor temperature. (W1 setpoint is from 40°��"55°, W2 & W3 setpoints are from 5°��"55°). This feature does not apply to dual fuel systems. Compressor Cooling First Stage Lockout • ��" will lock out the first stage compressor above a set outdoor temperature. (from 80°��"120°) Compressor Heating First Stage Lockout • ��" will lock out the first stage compressor below a set outdoor temperature. (from 0°��"50°) Furnace First Stage Heating Lockout • ��" will lock out first stage furnace operation below a set outdoor temperature. (from 15°��"50°) First stage lockouts are not available with zoning. Setpoint Dead Band This sets the temperature band between heating and cooling setpoints while in the auto mode. Here is a link that might be useful: Trane Comfortlink II Installation Manual

Half of my tress are at my dads house in his sun room this winter. It's very sunny and warm, so I'm planning to continue fertilizing with foliage pro when watering. Osmocote plus too if they need it. They all have fruit, except one. They look happy. No signs of bugs or desease yet. They dry out quick over there. A good excuse for me to go over often and spend time with my dad who has come to LOVE eating calamondins out of hand. The other half of my trees are home with me in sunny windows. It doesn't get below 68F at night inside our home. It's well insulated. In the daytime I've been bringing them outside for more sunlight. When the nights are warm I just leave them out (like last few days it's been like spring). I need the exercise. I sometimes get a bee in the house however doing this. They are doing great. I'm going to continue fertilizing them this winter too. Broke a Calamondin limb off carrying one out, turned it into a cutting, will see if it roots. Last winter I didn't fertilize much at all. They looked hungry. This winter I'm going to try feeding them more. They look like they are liking it so far.