Why don't you shim behind the wall to make it square, then find the right size door that will fit. Don't make the door fit the wall, make the wall fit the door. I don't think a filler piece would look that attractive. In a pinch, if this is the way you want to go, you could make it yourself- simle DIY project. I'm sure HomeDepot has all the materials you would ever need.

SO glad to find this post! I'm really struggling; didn't catch this on the plan or I would have changed it. We've framed: - a 4' wide, 9.5' long walk-in shower - on each end is doorless opening of 2' wide - there is a 5.5' to-ceiling panel betwn the openings * on the side of this "wall" facing into the main area of bathrm I will do some sort of glass tile and the tub will be there, forming a "T" with the shower itself. So I have a rectangle that's much too long, and am concerned about showerhead placement. DH thinks if I put a showerhead on each end, there will be water splashing out the 2' walk-in. Independent of the decision, we'll likely install Kohler 8030 in-ceiling rainshower panel (I've heard great things from users) in center of shower. But if that's the ONLY showerhead, you're walking to either end to get shampoo, etc. from inset shelves! FYI, I've always planned to put a basic handheld mounted on the 5.5' center wall, facing the back, of course. I know I'm over-explaining, and I apologize, but I REALLY don't want shower doors and DH is convinced that's the only way I can mount a showerhead on each end of shower, since we didn't plan ahead and at least have a 5-8" piece come in from corner of shower before the 2' walk-in. Does anyone have any experience w/a shower this large, or advice on how the showerheads would perform if mounted on each end? For those who have read this far, I greatly appreciate it!

Kerdi Update: I've gotten a couple of emails regarding the newer "Kerdi-DS". First, emails. I often get emails sent to me through the G'web email system, and because of the sender's setting on his/her G'web account, those emails can not be replied to. So don;t think I'm rude for not replying to your question. More often than not, it's literally impossible for me to reply to your email due to your account settings. Kerdi-DS. What is it? It's simply a thicker version of plain ole Kerdi. Kerdi is 8-mil, Kerdi-DS comes in at 20-mils thickness. Why is -DS now getting attention here in North America? Because TCNA has changed their recommendations for membranes used in commercial or heavy use steam showers. Recommendations for residential use steam showers have not changed at all. What or who is TCNA? TCNA is the Tile Council of North America. You might see references to TCNA when it comes to installing tile. TCNA publishes "best practice" guidelines for tile installation. You have an organization like TCNA which is fairly nimble when it comes to changing recommendations for installing tile. Then you have "building code", which only gets updated every few years, and updates are subject to influence from various interest groups; be they trade groups (plumbers, electricians, etc) or large corporations that make building materials. TCNA will often make tile/shower/bath recommendations that improve building practices several years ahead of those changes being implemented into state or national building codes. Blah blah blah. So what is this about? We have water barriers, which limit the penetration of liquid water. Then we have vapor barriers, which limit moisture vapor penetration. At a minimum, a water barrier is needed in a shower or tub surround. A more robust barrier, or a vapor barrier, is needed in a steam shower. Protection from vapor penetration has been typically defined by a product's "perm rating". Previously, if a product had a perm rating of less than 1.0, it was considered a vapor barrier. Example, a topical membrane that I use often is Hydroban. Hydroban has a perm rating greater than 1.0, so it can be used as a waterproof membrane in a shower, but it won't suffice as a vapor barrier in a steam shower. A product like RedGard has a perm rating of less than 1.0, so it can be used as a waterproof barrier in a regular shower, or as a vapor barrier in a steam shower. Kerdi? "Regular" Kerdi, the "standard" 8-mil thick Kerdi, has a perm rating of around .90, so it can be used as a water barrier in a regular shower, or as a vapor barrier in a residential steam shower. TCNA has revised their recommendations for vapor barriers used in heavy use or commercial use steam showers. Health clubs, spas, etc. Whereas the old recommendation was to use a material that simply had a perm rating of less than 1.0, for commercial installations like listed above the recommendation has been...

I had two tall niches put in a new tub shower. Our contractor uses noble niches. I chose noble niche model #2942. The contractor knew I wanted them so he built some of the cost into the contract so I don't know how much it added to the overall cost of the bathroom. However, on top of the base cost of installing two niches (which I don't know because it wasn't broken out) it ended up costing approx $200 extra because I wanted 5 white quartz pieces used as shelves and for the bases of the niches. And another $500 extra for tiling labor to get the subway wall tile to look like it wrapped around the sides and back of the niches. One of the niches apparently required more effort and tile cuts because of the heights I chose for the shelves to make the subway tile look like it wrapped around as a continuation of the wall tile. For the master bath with the same contractor there were no upcharges to the two niche costs built into the contract because my mom chose noble niche models that did not require shelves or anything special. However, I found that her niches were not quite tall enough to accommodate some toiletries and I became determined to max out the niche space in the next bathroom we did. Even though it was a tub/shower, I hate storing products on the tub edges.