Definitely match the edge! I am assuming you will have an overhang of stone just below that stainless? I just installed my counter tops and sick that I did pay close enough attention to the edges. I will try and post a pick later - I have 3 different corners - squared, rounded, and extra rounded - within a few feet. The fabricator said the rounded edges were necessary to prevent someone knocking the corners off. At the time, I didn't really picture it so I didn't object. If I could have a "do over", I would do it all squared off. Maybe it wouldn't bother other people, but I will have to always avoid looking directly at that area.

Hi there, just wanted to share our walnut island top refinishing experience. We got our 2" thick, 72" x 36" walnut top unfinished. My finish carpenter cut the piece and routed the edges. I sanded to 320 with an orbital sander, and then finished with hand sanding. Did this outside on the covered porch because it creates such a mess (red dust everwhere). Took me a couple of hours to get it where I wanted. We then moved it into the garage (to keep smell away from kids) where I applied the waterlox finish (6 days, 6 coats). Lightly sanded b/w coats 2, 4 & 5. Directions say to get it fixed in place no later than one week after delivery to avoid warping (we did it at day 8). Make sure you do this b/c ours started to warp ever so slightly --you can only see it if you examine unerneath closely. (we live by the water and received this during a heatwave!!) I applied waterlox to all sides to further protect it from warping. After we did the underside, we flipped it and put it on boards with screws sticking out to keep it elevated while we finished the top side. It is a lot of work, but saved at least $1500 doing it myself. Here is the finished picture (we still need to do the final steel wool at the one month mark when fully cured) (excuse the mess we are getting ready for painting). we got our top at the hardwood lumber company $900 delivered. ($150 for truck delivery), but this was for 2" thick. PS I am a petite woman who is only slightly handy and I had help only to move the piece into place -- so if I can do it you can!! It was a little stressful because I was terrified I would ruin it -- but it came out fine. : ) Good luck and be patient. Here is a link that might be useful: hardwood lumber company

I don't know how handy you are or what the current status of your countertop is, but it does sound like you're thinking about installing a Formica countertop and would like something nice to edge it. It that is the way of it, the solution is really rather simple. I won't tell you about the steps for installing the Formica itself, as I will assume that you already have that knowledge, except to say that it is really not as difficult as it seems to be from the outside looking in. It is one of the easier things I have learned in woodworking, to be honest about it. The way to get a nice edge treatment is to apply it to the countertop substrate before you glue down the Formica. I would choose a wood that matched my cabinets. If you have, say, ¾" particleboard for a substrate, you simply glue the wood of your choice to the outside edges of your substrate. Typically, that wood should be 1½" wide, thereby giving the illusion of a countertop that thick. You can miter the corners, but I have found that what works better and easier is to use wood that is 1" thick, as opposed to the usual ¾". You can then simply use butt joints for the edges of your wood trim. I do it in such a way that the joint is NOT on the side that will face out when the counter is installed. Make your joints on the sides. Next, I would make a template that has a 1" radius for a corner and put rounded corners on all of the corners that will face out. Obviously, where it butts to the wall, you want it to stay as straight corners. The easier way to round those corners, once you have the template, is to clamp the template in place, use a hand saw to cut across the corner to remove most of the waste, then finish up with a straight trim bit in a router. At this point you can install your Formica. Once you have finished installing the Formica, you can then put a nice profile on the countertop, making sure to cut through the Formica just a little. What works particularly well in that regard is to use a roundover bit and cut it deeply enough that it creates a shoulder. The Formica is then on a "shelf," so to speak, just above where the round starts for the profile on the edge. The other bit I like for this purpose is a simple 60º bevel bit. On this one, you simply cut through until you are happy with the resulting profile. After that, you would finish the wood the same as you would the wood in your cabinets. It is really not that difficult to do, and as I say, it makes a truly dramatic edge treatment for a Formica countertop. It makes it look like the countertop is solid whatever wood you choose for your edging, and it finishes the edge wonderfully. Here is a link that might be useful: Cabinet & Furniture Trends & Information

Does anyone know the answer to this - I have a 2 1/2" mitered flat edge and shaker overlay doors. When the doors were installed I noticed that I only have a 1/8" overlay over the door and drawer fronts. The counter does not protect the doors at all. Now the fabricator tells me that with a mitered edge they can only make a 1" overlay and not the 1 1/2 overlay that is standard with a flat eased edge. They said that when using a mitered edge only an inset door and drawer will do so that you can get enough overhang. Has anyone ever heard of this before? Any suggestions in how to correct this problem? How to add on to a granite edge. I can't rip out the countertop. Could possibly plane down the doors and drawers or make new inset doors and drawers but this is problematic to do.