jimster - I thought I read somewhere that deer will push a weak fence over. That was my main concern, since I'm using a different strategy to discourage them from jumping. And this is only a temporary fence, so I'd be happy if it survived one season. I'm only going to loosely hang chicken wire, or some lightweight welded wire I already have. I won't be stretching it, so I don't think it would get pulled over by tension, unless something ran into it. And the only thing likely to do that here, is a deer. The problem with the 1/2 inch conduit seems to be it's diameter. It's easy to push over because it slices through the soil, whereas a t-post is wider, and has that spade thing attached to it. I'd need to reinforce it at the soil line I think, to keep it from falling over. If deer wouldn't run into it, and bend the pipe, it might work for my purpose. But I was also thinking about using my posts to anchor some trellis lines, and conduit posts wouldn't work for that. So I probably won't use them. I was just trying to find something cheaper than t-posts. bluebirdie - This is only a lightweight temporary fence, so whatever I use will just be pounded into the ground. Your right about them not holding up, if they're just stuck in the ground. I tried it, and realized pretty quickly it wouldn't work without some kind of reinforcement. lantanascape - When I read one of your posts, it gave me the idea it might work. I knew you had supports at the base. I had just never thought of using them for fence posts. They seem sturdy enough to hold up 4 foot tall chicken wire. And if they were secured at the base, and deer didn't try to bend them over, I think it could work. But I'm probably better off looking for a deal on t-posts. I just haven't seen one yet.

Yup, you are correct. With overhead spray it took nearly ten minutes to get water to the soil which is why I am now running drip tube. Of course I have the recommended 2-3 inches of mulch after the fluff goes away. It is very much a real problem. When I used shredded cypress mulch it seemed to be the worse. All those shreds interlocked. The shredded hardwood doesn't seem that bad. This week we had about a 1/2 of rainfall after none for nearly a month or more with none. due to the fact that I am a habitual procrastinator the 1QT container with that dead plant was still sitting on my patio. On a lark I turned it upside down and saw that less than the top one third was moist. I scratched the mulch away in the landscape and it was dusty in places where here is no drip tube. 1/2" rain all in the mulch. All organic products are going to act like a sponge to some degree or another. Inorganic would solve that problem but the choices are limited, not aesthetic pleasing (IMO, perhaps toxic long term (shredded tires)or not conducive to creating a healthy environment at the soil surface interface. In my one bed I have 300' looped every 18" approx of tube installed. I had it set for 3 hours. 900 gallons of water completely and totally flooded the area to include some ponding. That's a pretty large area. I've reduced it to 2.5 and finally to 2. 600 gallons totally saturates the area.

I have 3 tomato plant one beside each other in raised beds and the first one got early blight (many lower leaves infected and some tomatoes have light brown spot on them) but the others seem fine so far so I was wondering if it was logical to pull it out to prevent other tomatoes of catching it too? I have another 10 plants too but in different raised bed next to them. What i read to do to is to remove the lower leaves of my plants, to remove infected leaves and to spray an anti fungal spray (I heard water and baking soda works) does that seem right? If i don't pull out the whole plant should i remove affected tomato fruits as well?

I realize that this is an old thread but I want to respond for anyone with a similar problem in the future. I am amazed that someone would tell you to hire a licensed plumber for such an incredibly easy job. Come on, folks! Have we become so helpless? When I read the question, I assumed it was about copper or galvanized pipe which would be very easy to fix too but then I saw it's PVC pipe. Nothing could be easier to fix and I have no idea why the person asking the question thinks he cannot remove the elbow. Of course you can remove it! You can simply cut it out with a hacksaw and put in a new elbow. You can extend the pipe that is cut off easily with just a union and a piece of PVC. Working with PVC is so incredibly easy that I am baffled about why the question was even asked. A proper repair would take about ten minutes and cost a couple dollars. I never cease to be amazed by how helpless people are becoming. This is pretty sad.