Thanks for so many replies!! So glad that I posted this question. The pictures definitely help. I definitely don't want to notch out he woodwork, so that's not an option anymore. I think our fabricator said that he usually does a 3/4" overhang so I was thinking about holding back the base cabinets by 3/4", and my cabinet maker said she can make us a strip of wood to fill the gap. I dont want a tiny little strip of paint beween the base cabs and woodwork. The uppers could go straight to the molding, and it would give the appearance of all the cabinets lining up. Has anybody done something like this? Any pics? What do people usually do for an overhang on their granite? I think we are going to do a half bullnose. Thanks for all the help! Keep the comments coming!

18" is the "standard" distance b/w countertop and cabinet bottoms OR the bottom of your light rail, if you have it. Yes, you can buck the standard and go with a shorter distance but, be sure all small appliances you might use there (not just "plan" to use there) will fit. It doesn't really matter why the standard is 18", the fact that it is a standard means that manufacturers use it when designing small appliances for kitchens. My KA mixer, for example, is 17" tall... The other thing to keep in mind, as TresGirls also brings up, is that you need room to work under the cabinets...and if it's too short a distance you will be "cramped" when working there. If you and your entire family are short, it probably won't be a problem, but if any of you are at all tall (or even average height), it may very will be an issue. Do you plan to sell in the next 2 or 3 years? If so, then I would think twice about lowering the cabinets. OTOH, if this is your "forever" home or you plan on being in your house for many years to come, then do what works for you and your family. However, this is what I recommend you do: Measure the height of the tallest appliance you might use on that counter. Add 1/4" for "wiggle room" This is the minimum distance you need b/w the top of your countertop and: If you will have light rail on the bottom of your cabinets, then it's the distance b/w your countertop & the bottom of the light rail (and remember to account for the light rail in all upper cabinet measurements & installation!) If you will not have light rail but will have undercabinet lights, then it's the distance b/w your countertop and the bottom of the cabinets OR the lights...whichever will be lower. If you will not have light rail or undercabinet lights, then it's the distance b/w your countertop and the bottom of the cabinets. Even if you think you won't be pushing the appliance under the cabinets, you must still have room for them under the cabinets. It is very difficult to confine your work area to the 12" or so in front of the upper cabinets. You will at some point need to move your mixer (or other appliance) out of the way so you can work and you don't want to not be able to b/c it's too tall to fit.

I think it should be fine, if you don't do a backsplash just yet. If there are spots where cabinets rest on the counter of course, it won't work so well. There is so much variation in stone actual thicknesses, especially after installation, you can't predict totally if it'll end up higher or lower. I think! I don't think you have anything to be concerned about--just keep in mind a future counter swap when you put it all together.

Posted by remodelfla (My Page) on Sat, Jan 25, 14 at 19:18 I think I missed this! It is 100% my style and I LOVE it!! Glad you like it, I think the style has some Frank Lloyd Wright influence. ------ Posted by madtown_2006 (My Page) on Sat, Jan 25, 14 at 21:00 That video just blew my mind! That is amazing! Beautiful kitchen! LOVE your soapstone and the dark pulls/counters/appliances. Yeah, I thought that was wild how those cabinets are made and go together. The ORB pulls were suggested by the cabinet maker. They seem to go OK with the black appliances that were only 7 years old which we wanted to keep. ------- Posted by raehelen (My Page) on Sat, Jan 25, 14 at 21:14 I missed it the first time too. Gorgeous! This is when the limits of photography are so frustrating...I can just imagine how you must want to stroke both the oak and the soapstone...just hard to capture the depth in a picture. Thanks all for your kind comments. I've been using an iPhone for the pictures. It's really a lot easier that way though the pictures might look better with a better camera/photographer. At least you probably get an idea of how it looks. :-) It's interesting that the stone feels different on the underside of the island overhang, it's smoother! I learned that the stone comes to the fabricator with a smooth 400 grit finish and then gets cut and finished with 80 grit which is rougher but gives that soapstone feel. It also holds the oil better and makes the stone less susceptible to scratches. This post was edited by Quadesl on Sun, Jan 26, 14 at 10:00