We did get rid of most of our soffits, but there was one part that we could not. Our KD's design includes cabinets to the ceiling w/crown molding. Where the plumbing still sticks out, she's hiding it inside the cabinets...yes, that will probably make the top shelf in those few cabinets not very useful (at least not for big objects), but most of the cabinets will be completely useful as it only affects 2 or 3 of the 6 upper cabinets on that wall. Others have "embraced" their soffits by decorating them. Someone else trimmed them to make them look like part of the cabinetry w/skins and crown molding (this was actually what our KD was going to do as well if she couldn't regain at least 3 or 4 inches from our soffit depth). Someone, I think, also made a shelf out of theirs. I don't know if any of these kitchens are in the Finished Kitchens Blog, but you might check. I suggest you also do a search for "soffit" and "soffits" since there have been some threads about this very topic. Use the search box on the bottom of the thread list page, not the top. HTH!

You certainly have soffits all around this kitchen! I would like to see the underside of the soffit treated like the one above the sink: put the wall color on all sides of the soffit and don’t use the ceiling color on the underside. Additional lighting is the best idea for the soffit, but you have to consider the other light fixtures, too. 1. Will you be keeping it? If so, find something that compliments it, and decide if you want to switch that lights around to the new spot to use a different type of light in the center of the kitchen. 2. Buy new complementary lights for the 2-3 places. Small hanging pendants would be very nice there and there are many central kitchen ceiling light designs to choose from. FUTURE IDEA: I love Boxerpal’s faux cabinet solution for the future—if you end up keeping the cabinets when you are ready to completely change the kitchen, use that great idea. Otherwise consider taking the soffits out to go farther up with cabinets. (And just living with it for a bit can be very freeing...spend where it matters the most for the most impact.)

I can measure later when I get home. There were two *big* decisions we had to make, actually 3. The one we did NOT do was add glass in the top section of 5 upper cabinet doors to reduce the cost. The two choices we DID make (and would make again) for additional cost was (1) a no-reveal design . . . instead of a gap between cabinet doors and between drawers, they are, for lack of a better term, 'sleeker'. Chandler had both styles side by side, and the gap looked dated to my husband and I. We were willing to pay a little more for the better, more modern look, and (2) After much internal wrangling, we chose to have the cabinet color applied by Chandler in the shop. My research on Houzz and elsewhere + people I know who have worked with kitchen designers overwhelmingly said that was the best way to go. It was a good decision. They offered 2 shades of white, and we chose the brighter, whiter, less creamy one after carting two painted cabinet doors around to the slab yard, hardware store, etc., and looking at them both in our own light. I can email and ask what the paint color is, but there was not a brand name on the door samples when we chose our color, just the color name on the sample doors: Cotton (that was creamier) and 'Chandler White' that was the brighter white we chose. I can say that it was definitely worth the additional cost, although it took my breath away at first. Here's where I asked for help on Houzz: [Is It Worth the Cost[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/is-it-worth-it-to-have-new-cabinets-painted-by-the-cabinet-maker-dsvw-vd~5424802?n=14) .

A bit more info please. Why can’t you change them for instance. A to scale floor plan is what we need to start with show all windows, doorways and plumbing if it can’t be moved. Some info as to your style and what you have to have in the space . Mark all measurement clearly . I will say the first item is a counter depth fidge .