I have a Craftsman 139.53629SRT built in 1993. The remote number is 139.53759. I guess I am lucky it works at all at that age. I have searched the internet (including several locations listed in forums on this site) and am unable to find an online manual. I THINK I may have fixed it but want to see if someone can confirm I "repaired" correctly. Lately I have come home to find my garage door open. I had determined that my memory is failing me until today! Thinking I had neglected to close the GD when leaving home, or had accidentally pushed the button again while driving away, I purposely checked--I drove around the block and came back to make sure the door was still closed. Yesterday and today it was still closed when returning to check --both days I came home a few hours later to an open garage door. So thinking maybe one of my neighbors has their GDO set to the same frequency, I followed the instructions on the GDO to reset. What I don't know is if reset means that I reset the remote to match the old frequency or if I reset the frequency. DO any of you experts know?

Lornetta: You do not say which State you live in or what size/type house you have. Need this info for a good response. I looked up the unit on Bryant's website and it's their top of the line with 2-stage scroll compressor and R410A. But it's only a 13 SEER (minimum allowed by law) and most 2-stage compressors are used for hi-efficiency (16 SEER plus) applications. Not sure if you need a 2-stage scroll when most units, especially 13 SEER, use a single stage compressor. If you live in State with a long, hot summer you can conside a 2-stage but not at 13 SEER. I saw that Bryant had other models but I don't remember them as I type this. You should ask them to quote the all of the a/c models in their line so you can have a good idea of the price range within models. You must also get 2 other quotes to see the range between HVAC contractors. Bryant is made by Carrier but there are other mfrs: RUUD/Rheem, Trane/American Standard, Goodman, Lennox, and some make other names under their own unbrella. You may be surprised of the $$ difference among them. The more quotes you get, the smarter that you will be. You should be able to cut a nice chunk of $$ out of that quote depending upon where you live, sytem choice, and smart shopping (unless you are in a crisis replacement, then all bets are off). "existing Heil unit that can not carry the load of two floors (approx. 24,000 sq. ft.)" - should be 2400 sq ft Also, you do not say the size of the old a/c unit. If it's a lot smaller than the new 4-ton, the new 4-ton may require duct enlarging to get the airflow needed for 48,000 btu's of cooling. There are HVAC calculations called a Manual J for system sizing, and a Manual D for ductwork sizing. Most HVAC contractors do not do these, but they will help you get the right system to work in your home, especially if you are going to spend $14,000. Best of luck to you.

OK, I've read the entire thread, and I cannot speak for the actual devices being discussed, but for the non-mathematical out there, let me try to explain... We are considering AC-Alternating Current- in which the voltage is constantly varying from a positive peak value to a negative peak value, and back again, in a smooth curve called a Sine wave. If the load is resistive, like a water heater or even a standard light bulb, the peak voltage and peak current occur at the same instant, so the (peak) power is the product of these two. VA=Watts, PF=1 In an inductive load, the peak current occurs later than the voltage peak, so the current is lower when the voltage is max, and the voltage is lower when the current is max. Since voltmeters and ammeters do not know about each other, they will both read a value (the RMS value, which is similar to an "average) related to the peak of each parameter, but the actual product or real power at any given instant is less than the product of the two peak values since they do not peak at the same time. For a capacitive load, the current peak occurs before the voltage peak, but the result is the same, since the peak voltage and peak current do not occur at the same instant. The product of the two independent meter readings is Volts * Amps, or volt-amps. The actual product of all the instantaneous values is Watts. The power factor is the ratio of these two, and can never be greater than 1. I hope this is useful in helping understanding of AC power.

Virgil said: "More to the point, cost vary due to complexity, quality and frankly, lack of thought resulting in change orders during construction." Exactly. Are you building a basic house with clamshell molding or no molding around the windows, inexpensive carpeting throughout, minimal tile, laminate counters, etc or are you building a top of the line house with 10" crown moldings, 8" baseboard molding, calcutta marble tile in the bathrooms, Sub zero quality appliances, hand scraped hardwood floors throughout, and fireplaces in every room? Are you building in a HCOLA area or in you in a rural area where land and labor are inexpensive? A great example is my house which is custom. If I go with his basic features, which are still very nice, my cost per square foot will be $217 a square foot. Not cheap but it does include granite, tile, wood floors, a pool with hot tub, security system, a Bosch appliance package, tankless water system, semi custom cabinets, Kohler quality fixtures and many other options. However if I add every single option at the maximum price, meaning I decide I can't live without the $50 a square foot tile, or need more expensive wood flooring, the elevator, a full outdoor kitchen, upgraded moldings, a fancier staircase, etc, etc, the price could jump to as high as $279 a square foot. I can go outside my target area to an area that is 5-10 miles from where we're building and can build a house for 1/2 the price per square foot. Same zip code even. So as Virgil is saying, it really means nothing what the square foot price to build is.