No, it's not really pretty, but if you line the entire interior with bubble it will not only diffuse the light, it will add insulating qualities as it's the air trapped in the bubbles that insulate and why so many GH owners use it, but the lighter weight bubble we tend to have on-hand from packaging isn't going to last very long. Sealing all of the glass on the exterior, leaving a 1.5" space would be even better- IF you can seal it well enough to insure that the air is really trapped. However, film on the exterior won't last even as long as lightweight packing bubble and be impossible to clean. If you have a means of installing them, in the long run, permanent storm panels would be the most cost effective option and give you close to the equilant of thermopanes. Single pane safety glass is relatively cheap and given some carpentry skill and a bench saw with a dado blade, making non-operable storm panels is easy. For light diffusion, most of us use sunshades. I needed additional sun screening on one end of my GH and used semi-sheer white window panel curtains from a thrift shop and held them in place between the polybars (studs) with spring loaded curtain rods. I spent no more than $5.00 for enough semi-sheers to completely cover a 12 ft. wall. Of course, they weren't gathered nicely as they would be on a window in a decorated room in the house, but they worked wonderfully to diffuse sunlight in my GH. The problem with trying to make an innexpensive garden GH both tightly insulated against both direct sun/heat and cold attractive, is that sans very expensive triple pane, coated thermos, we need to suppliment and that supplimental insulation is rarely an attractive addition. Done right, it can be highly effective, but hardly attractive. BTW: One shade option glass GH owners have that is denied to those of us with polycarb, is good old fashoned whitewash. It's cheap to buy, easy to apply and remove and also control for the amount of opaqueness by the simple means of thinning it and/or applying multiple coats. Also not pretty, but again; effective.

RE: At least 12 benefits are realized when using newspaper and cardboard approach to landscape covering in addition to applying it only once each season (11) and never having to ever remove it. (12) Plus its FREE!!! (13 = bakers dozen). Prepare the dirt for planting. Mark row with a string and small stake at each end of the row so you will know where you intend for plants to grow. Make rows. Transplant or seed the garden rows. "Cover all areas" where a transplant or seed does not exist "with no less than 4 layers of newsprint up to within 1 inch of the plant or seeded rows" (do not cover seeds in rows or plants) . "Top the newsprint with 6 inches of cut lawn grass." (Most neighbors just throw grass clippings in a garbage can, which begin to deteriorate and stink waiting for garbage collection day. Ask for their discarded clippings. They will be happy to be rid of them. Good idea to provide a container or wheelbarrow for them to empty their lawn mowing bag into. Have them put grass clipping filled container on the street, a signal for you to collect. Collect the same day from their property. Clippings are easiest to work with when freshly cut.) After seedlings are up and thinning has been accomplished, you can fill in the 1 inch opening with the dry grass clippings to eliminate day light and exposure to direct air/airborne travelers-weeds. For most, the leaves and the expansion of the stem will take up most of the area and require no further attention depending on type and distance of crop. BENEFITS 1.) Keeps out the weeds, 2.) Holds in the moisture longer 3.) Allows for rain or any type of water system above or below newspaper/grass clipping barrier which gently waters crop 4.) Forms airy barrier between the ground and the plant so fruit/vegetable never sits in water/dirt and rots, 5.) Grass will turn white/tan color providing a nice background contrast for the green plantings,6.) Any weed that happens to be green and is not purposefully planted will be easy to spot and pull, 7.) Grass clippings provides a nice mud-free walkway for your shoes/feet when harvesting AND does not allow for germination of airborne or shoe-tracked seeds 8.) News-print and grass clippings are both biodegradable, deteriorating slowly throughout the growing season 9.) Rototill ALL of the garden complete with any discarded plant parts (stems, roots, leaves, fruit... discarded there in the garden through out the growing season) ALONG WITH the original newsprint and dead grass clippings, back into the ground. 10.) All will continue to decompose throughout the remainder of the year enriching your garden with the nutrients of free mulch. Bonus reward: If you want to replant in an area where you harvested an early crop, later in the same season, it will be easy to pullup those roots and the ground will be weed-free. Til or hoe to prepare soil and replant. Next season: repeat. It is recommended by professionals to rotate the place where you planted crops the previous year. It helps to keep a diagram/photo/drawing to remember. Hope this helps with your decision. After reading all of the posts, I decided to stay with this method. Terre

PW - Thanks for the kind words! also PPE - I received your recent message. I've been very busy with spring pruning/ repotting, which is why I haven't yet expressed my gratitude, but I will. Thank you - I was moved! Is there any downside to starting the layer via ringing method up to a year before I plan to prune + pot the propagule? There is no question things will move along much faster if the layering takes place with the plant outdoors, but you can start the layer a month or so before you expect to move it outdoors, which can be done A) when nights are reliably above 55*F, or B) by moving the plant in and out as temperatures allow (should be above 55*). Is it okay to keep it on over the winter? It depends on where the layer is located on the plant. Since you'll be cutting through the phloem tissue, you'll be cutting off flow of photosynthate from all foliage distal to the layer to roots. So, if the layer is on the main stem proximal to all foliage, there is a very good chance that the plant's root system could die; however, if you are layering the main stem distal to other branches on the stem, it wouldn't be a problem. It's best to start preparing for the layer in early to mid-spring and plan on separating the layer in mid to late summer. Faster is better because it decreases the probability of a fungal pathogen gumming up the plumbing before new roots have an opportunity to form a connection to the propagule's existing vasculature. Does layering on the main stem of a plant have any effect on the growth rate above? Yes. How much, depends on what fraction of the flow of photosynthate (food) is being cut off by the layer. If you have 10 branches below the layer on a main stem, it won't have much impact on growth rate. If you are air layering the main stem at a point proximal to all, the effect on growth rate would be greater. In any case, the reduction in growth rate should be temporal; this, because the layer also blocks the polar flow of auxin (it moves from shoots to roots only). With the flow of auxin reduced to almost nil, auxin's inhibitory effect on new lateral branching will be almost entirely eliminated (in apically dominant plants), so foliage on the new branches will start to provide a net return on energy outlay when the first of the new leaves are about 75% mature. Al

Talked to my tile installer and he was able to provide this to me. This is a residential steam shower and not a continuous use shower (which is what you need the DS for). See below for KERDI info. I’m a structural engineer and ran a calculation on a 10.5 ft 1/2” panel and it worked fine. The 3/8” was not working - BUT we were very conservative with our assumption (assumed spanned full height and will actually be supported on 4 sides). Looking for others who have done something this tall...trying to avoid a much deeper structural analysis to prove it will work and get installed feed-back. What did you use? Thanks!