... the handles need to be tied if the two circuits end on the same yoke. afaik, it isn't YET required that they be tied otherwise. I've got one MWBC in my project that doesn't have tied handles. Two circuits ran by "the last guy" magically got shorter when the wires were re-routed, I needed to extend them both about 3 feet, had a long enough scrap of 12/3 (actually 10/3) on the floor in front of me, and extended both circuits with the one cable. They're joined for a 3-foot run and seperate as soon as they hit a junction box on the ceiling above the panel (which is in its own little closet that will never receive a finished ceiling). Otherwise I would have done something about tying the handles. Pipe... well the cable to the garage finally got buried today, it is not in pipe, but does have some heavy plastic grating laid down about 6" above it. No idea what this stuff is meant for but it should definitely deter anyone digging there. Of course, since it's literally less than a 5-foot span, and one can see the LBs on both ends simultaneously, and the wire runs in a straight line otherwise... anyone digging in that spot, without being able to figure out that there's a high likelihood of a wire there, is a moron anyway. There are phone, data, and coax next to it, Those ARE in a pipe, it's some sort of semi-flexible black stuff originally affiliated with the now-nonexistant swimming pool.

First, the conductors in the flex conduit attached to the oven very likely are rated at a higher temperature than the conductors in the cables/conduits in the house walls. It is a requirement that the interface devices be rated for the higher temperature conductors. Wire nuts usually meet this requirement, as do various wire clamp schemes, but this needs to be confirmed. Second, the lower box can be wired within the wall to a new higher box with conventional conductors (e.g., TWHN) protected by approved cable design or conduit "suitable for the purpose." Third, the oven flex is connected to the box with a suitable connector and its conductors attached to the house wiring conductors inside the box. Depending on the wire gauge, wire nuts may prove to be difficult to deal with if oven detachment has to be performed more than once. I used clamp type devices in my configuration, removable using an Allen wrench. Fourth, but maybe zeroth, the entire process of attaching and detaching the connection and inserting and removing the oven should be thought through to make sure one can actually get to the box guts and work on it with the oven whip in place. Last, because this detachment will be inconvenient in many cases, unnecessary for some repairs, and a positive disconnection means is required, I suggest using a breaker device that allows "lock out/tag out" protection to service personnel.

Tell the builder to pull the cable TV line themself. They can leave a bunch on each end for Cox to play with.

brick color. even if you're a shade darker or lighter it will still be better than the gray. grab some small sample pots from behr and try out these BM colors. (they can color match. not exact, but close enough) You could even mix a few colors to get a custom match. are you allowed to erect a screen a foot or two in front of it? what if you did this type of container w/a wood slat, and a climbing vine/plant? set it a foot or two in front of that brick. you could still get behind it, but it wouldn't be visible. this is cool. it just swings open: https://designertrapped.com/diy-utility-box-cover/ you could even put this one on a hinge that opens like a door: or, any of these so many ideas. as long as the screen is removeable for access, any of these will work. then you could put a container w/a tall plant in it to further disguise it