Ugh! I love love my Bain Ultra air jetted acrylic tub, but, knowing exactly what to use to clean it has been nearly impossible. Calling the company, they tell me a "non abrasive cleaner". My favorite cleaner, Scrubbing Bubbles, is abrasive. I've looked and looked at the labels on cleaners and can't find one that is safe. They did give me a couple of suggestions (can't recall what they were) but my local stores didn't have them. Now, for what I KNOW works and is made for acrylic....Gel Gloss. I find it at Lowes. It's a lot of work and with my back problem, I can't do it anymore. With Gel-Gloss, you spray it, let it sit, wipe clean, let it dry and then buff. You'll get a spectacular glossy finish! Tub stays cleaner longer too. Wish I could still use it. From the website: Gel-Gloss Polish & Rejuvenator contains the most effective carnauba waxes to produce the highest surface luster possible. Gel-Gloss leaves a smooth, sealed surface that eliminates water-spotting and staining. In addition to fiberglass, marble and acrylics surfaces, use Gel-Gloss confidently on ceramic, chrome, stainless steel, porcelain and plastic laminate surfaces. Here is a link that might be useful: Gel-Gloss

For a jetted tub used as a shower, it has to have an integral tile flange. That allows the wall cladding to overhang and any water that hits the wall to not go behind your walls. There aren't that many in that size that are inexpensive. It will need a specialized drain, and, if you want to spend any time in the tub, a supplemental heater so the water doesn't cool off so fast. Since it's a tub/shower, the wall cladding will need to be redone to be waterproof into the tub. It's possible, if the build is recent, and it was done with the proper vapor barrier behind it, that only one row of the tile would need to be pulled in order to replace the tub. But, I wouldn't count on that. I'd count on having to replace all of the wall cladding in the alcove. That can be as cheap as a plastic surround for around $100 or cheap tile with the proper vapor barrier for probably $150 or so. The first is the easiest and the least chance of leaking. The second will read as more upscale, but you have to be sure your contractor understands about the vapor barrier and correct materials to use to tile this (NOT mastic.) And since you have that torn out, it would be foolish to try to keep your current control valves for the bath unless they are also very new. New safety standards are in place for anti scald mechanisms. So, you will need a new shower/bath faucet and valve. Then you will need the electrical line run from the panel to the location for the whirlpool pump and supplemental heater. That location is usually opposite the drain side of the tub. You will need to be able to site an access panel that is removable to be able to get to the electrical innards here. That can be from an adjacent room, or from a hidden panel on the tub itself. All in all, you might be able to get all of the needed materials for 2-3K if you shop the box stores carefully and find some bargains. The danger to that is that if you are inexperienced, you don't know if you're buying quality or crap. They sell both. And that's one reason that it would be simpler to let the pro pick the products after you tell him the features that you want. Then you've got to pay the contractor labor to install all of that. The electrician's price will depend on how difficult it will be to access the panel and run the wire to the location. For that, it's a really good thing you are on a crawlspace! That makes it cheaper for both the electrician and the plumber. On the whole, I'd expect your project to cost between 5-7K, depending on location, and if you have no DIY skills to bring to the table and have to hire professionals for the whole job. And be sure that you hire someone that is licensed and insured to be in your home, and will pull the proper permits to get the job inspected with your code office. Some handyman guy isn't licensed to do electrical of that nature, and while he might be able to do the demo and get the tub in place and glue on the plastic surround, it's unlikely that he'll have the right insurance to deal with a large job like that, and thus probably wont' want to pull permits and be inspected. They are usually limited to smaller jobs like simple fixture replacements like a faucet or light. Which this isn't. Just remember, you are doing a project that combines electricity and water. You really have to know what you're doing here! A small General Contractor should be able to do the complete job, and also carry the needed papers. And he should have no problem with the code guys coming in to inspect his work either. If he does, then he's not the right person for the job.

That's weird you're being told MTI is unavailable. They only make to order in their factory in Atlanta, and ship acrylic in 7 days. That tub looks like an MTI composit, and they do take a bit longer -- 14 days, IIRC. But in general, nothing can be had any faster than MTI unless it's sitting in a warehouse. Gorgeous tub, btw. My sister has an MTI with air and has had it about six years now. They love it. I'm with homepro01, however. I like a quiet soak.

I know this is an old thread. I'm comtemplating if I want a tub at all but if I get an air or a jetted tub, if the sides have stone around, how do you reach the motor if you need a repair? Just curious if anyone has dealt with that situation. For my current outdated tub, I can reach the motor through the the cabinet; I have a cut out there. I could do the same thing. But adding a slab of quartz to a tub make for a very expensive tub. Dominique, what did you decide and are you happy with your decision?