dadoes, Thanks for the ongoing help/expertise. I hope others will benefit from you help and my learning. An update on my "dirty fix" of putting a paper clip across the switched leads, at the connector to the to the control console panel. As noted, I left the ground wire unconnected, it seems it is run through the switch connector to make it easier to disconnect the console from wiring. There are two other large wire connectors on the timer/control. As stated, I checked the jumper out and the machine ran in all cycles with the lid up, no surprise here, the surprise was yet to come. As I hadn't yet check out the route of the safety ground I simply left it open and put a piece of electrical plastic tape around the paper clip jumper. This morning I put in a load of cloths and noted the agitation started even with the door open, confirming the jumper was still there. I was about going to other things when I noted a wisp of smoke coming out of the back of the panel. I shut the machine down, pulled the power plug, and opened the console again. There I found some of the electrical tape was softened and taking it off found the plastic connector had some heat damage. Seems there is more current than I assumed (checking the schematic I see all motor current pass through the lid switch - looks like wire no larger than 14 gauge stranded). I decided to plug the switch connector back into the switch. Strangely the switch is in the closed position, independent of the door position. It must be that my jiggling the switch around trying to remove it the first time caused it to no longer align with the lid position actuator - as you describe, I can't see any of this without removing the cabinet. Still, it appears one should be able to remove/replace the switch via the access provided by moving the control console. The switch itself has a "flat spring" (about 1/2" wide and thin) mounting clip, which when depressed allowed me to move the switch, but not to remove it with the short attempt I made. For now I closed up the counsel, with the switch connector plugged into the switch and the safety ground. The machine washed the load normally, and runs all cycles independent of the lid position. I am still not totally convinced that the control/timer isn't part of the intermittent problem. I will run it for a few loads to see if the machine runs properly (albeit with no lid position dependence). If it does I will consider replacing the switch, but I am inclined to run the machine absent the lid safety feature. I'll not have any problem remembering to keep my hand out of a running tub, in fact I will continue to run with the lid closed.

Refacing is not cost effective unless you do it yourself. And it is not a simple task, either. We did our own kitchen refacing, saved probably $8,000 in labor so it was worth it. But it was a lot of work, and applying the veneers took some practice and skill. I think what I would do is buy the new doors and new drawer fronts from Barker, they are very reasonable and they'll bore the hinge holes for you. Their website can give you a quote as soon as you enter the size, type of wood, etc. I'd paint the cabinet boxes, new doors and drawers (a bit of work, but hey, if you want to keep the cabinets...) Get the new soft close drawer glides if you must have them, (Rockler sells them I think) and either paint or line those drawers with something to cover the not so pretty inside bottoms. Add the new knobs or pulls, hang the doors, install the drawer fronts (this is not too difficult), and call it done. Shouldn't cost too much at all, and will update and refresh the cabinets. I agree with you, those older cabinets are solid, meant to last and I'd hate to rip them out too..

All of a sudden I am finding this much more interesting. In order for the UL to reject this design, there must be hazard, to person or property. If there is nothing like a fuse in the range, this outlet would only be protected by, what, a 30- or 40-amp fuse in a panel. If there is excessive current on the outlet, the outlet will heat up and melt or the wires will burn. Maybe the outlet and wires are rated for 30 or 40 amps. OTOH, maybe the level of concern is low because all of the flammable stuff is enclosed or installed in a metal chassis that will not burn. If the cable in the walls is stressed, it is protected to the level it needs to be by the panel equipment. The way I understand it, using a fuse or circuit breaker to protect the appliance or cord connected to an outlet is not the concern in the USA though it is elsewhere. You understand what I am thinking? I know that my mother acutely missed the outlet when her range was changed-out. The 1959 kitchen did not have enough circuits for her early 70s kitchen small appliances and she tended to use it for the electric griddle when making pancakes for a family of 6.

As someone who has been actively involved in the cabinet industry for more than 40 years, I find this discussion interesting. Blum is certainly a well-known brand for good reasons - good quality, innovation and gererally a good competitor in the marketplace. But, Blum's product is nowhere so superior to several competitive brands to command the premium price they do. Don't be misled because of extensive trade advertising - someone has had to pay for each ad after all. Yet there is one question I have yet to find well answered - WHY should a homeowner want to have soft-closing slides or hinges installed? Maybe that is a question for another forum. There are some facts designers, cabinetmakers and consumers need to consider: 1. Soft-close and self-close action are two totally different mechanisms. Be sure you know the difference and are not confusing them. 2. There are major differences between under-mount and side-mount soft-close drawer slides in terms of weight capacity, installation and adjustability, and price. Some applications clearly call for one type of slide versus another - but one type of slide may not be well-suited for every application. Also, know the true difference between slides referred to as "full extension" and "full access" - big difference in function and price/value. 3. Realize there are major differences when evaluating the required pull-force, closing speed, dampener length (at what point does the closing mechanism take over), and dampener design. Look for hydraulic dampeners,they are superior to air-filled dampeners as they eliminate drawer bounceback much better. 4. Finally, acknowledge many cabinetmakers have been experiencing hardtimes for the past several years and have sought opportunities to get something that looks and works like the quality brands. Buyer beware still rules - slides may look alike but have vastly different quality aspects. From a competitive point of view I'll give credit where credit is due, in my opinion the two soft-close slide programs that merit equal consideration are Blum and KV. They have many of the same design charactistics, both companies have drawer slides as a core competence, and both companies have reputations for superior quality and excellent service. Hope this helps the discussion with specifics.