If you think you’ve been exposed to asbestos, here’s what you should do. https://www.heatingair.org/ Consult a doctor. Talk to your doctor if you think you’ve been exposed to asbestos. They can help you determine your risk of developing an asbestos-related disease. “The good news is that one-off, limited exposure to asbestos is typically harmless short and long term. Most of the people who develop asbestos-related ilnesses were exposed to the material on a regular basis. These diseases usually take a long time to develop. Most people don’t have symptoms until 10 to 40 years after exposure, the National Cancer Institute says. If your doctor knows that you’ve been exposed to asbestos, they may monitor you for symptoms. If symptoms occur, get a diagnosis The signs of asbestos-related diseases can be similar to other health conditions. People with these diseases may have shortness of breath, chest pain and a chronic cough. Some asbestos-related diseases can also make you cough up blood or lose weight without trying to. To diagnose diseases associated with asbestos, doctors may use a variety of lung tests. Imaging tests, including chest X-rays or computerized tomography (CT) scans, can help your doctor spot changes in your lungs. Your doctor may also ask you to blow big breaths into a machine to see how well your lungs are working.

Even hollow core doors have room for trimming. Alternatively, you can replace the hinges with a specialty hinge that has a slight upward spiral to the barrels and this causes the door to lift a bit as you swing it open. It might be cheaper and easier to trim the doors, though.

Gosh, I'm not an expert but 4 x 4 ought to be OK. When you think about it, old time strip hardwood went down over just a subfloor so I don't see a problem. Other than it may be a bit more difficult to stagger seams just because you'll have more of them. No doubt full sheets would be preferable but sometimes you just gotta' do with what you have. Another thought--maybe rip the sheets lengthwise and put down 2x8 sections? Easier to handle than a 4 x 4?? Yes, you can do without the glue. I followed instructions that I found from some experienced floor guy on the internet somewhere (it's been a few years ago) and did the glue because my subfloor is only 1/2" plywood with visible dips and sags between joists and because the old floor was a squeaking nightmare. Also, it is a large high traffic kitchen/ great room where we removed two partitions and where squeaking would annoy me all day, every day. You're dealing with a bedroom, maybe even a spare bedroom? I had to sift thru a lot of information to even find how to deal with my situation of having only 1/2" ply. Sure wasn't up to removing it and having to walk on joists to install a thicker subfloor. The glue was extra insurance. Oh--I know you said that you knew to stagger seams; I assume you also know that the second plywood layer goes on perpendicular to the first layer? Mentioning just in case... Not something we do everyday so it's easy to forget even stuff we already know!

Hi, flooring company here. The moisture barrier padding is not going to make or break your investment. A moisture barrier pad's best use is to hold spills or pet accidents over the pad for a longer period of time than a standard foam pad. Honestly, it certainly is not waterproof and not 100% necessary. In our industry, padding is a huge "upseller". I would highly recommend a standard 8lb, 7/16" rebond padding. That is all that's necessarily honestly. it will wear excellent over a long period of time and is breathable. We have been installing this pad for 30+ years and past customers still come back to us and ask for the same pad again when replacing their 20 year old carpet/. Of course put a nylon carpet over it if you're hoping to live on it more than 1-3 years with regular usage. Hope this helps. Good luck in your carpet replacement!