Carlos, I strongly suggest that you contact your local Extension office to show them this image. Make a list of the plants that are being pestered by this insect and even some pictures of the damage. It looks like the Little Leaf Notcher Weevil, Myllocerus undatus.....a rather new introduction to Florida and one that is being watched closely.

Definitely an azalea lace bug infestation!! Control can be done any time but best to time for when plants are not exposed to full sun - i.e., early morning or late evening or on an overcast day. Azalea lace bug control. I tend to lean to Neem oil for this sort of problem - very effective and a natural control.

I followed three different approaches in last three years to deal with aphids & thrips. These are basically sap sucking insects that come on the fresh growth. Last to last year, I used neem water (not neem oil) and tobacco water. Both were very effective against aphids, specially neem water that I used to make by boiling neem leaves. However, it was quite a hassle preparing these solution once in 10 days as aphids would come again. More importantly, both neem water as well as tobacco water killed the beneficials too which was highly undesirable. So I wanted a permanent organic solution; a preventive measure that would discourage aphids in my garden. Last year, looking for an effective preventive measure, I went for a high Ca and low nitrogen therapy. Low nitrogen puts a check on rapid growth and Ca hardens the tissue walls. So we are looking at hard tissues with less inter-tissue gap which makes the fresh growth on a rose bush un-attractive for the sap sucking pests. Again a success and there were hardly any aphids or thrips on my roses last year. But I had a price to pay.... over doze of Ca resulted in lighter shades and low fragrance in my roses. Even those roses that have the reputation of being most fragrant had mediocre fragrance. This year I adopted the approach that was similar to what Valrose wrote. I just asked myself that how much of damage aphids or thrips caused? Not much perhaps, unless there are too many of them. So I decided to live with the aphids and thrips on my rose bushes this year and when I saw too many of them on a bush, just sprayed it with a water jet. Used nothing against them. It was much easier and I have had no issues with aphids so far. I would recommend the third approach. I would let the nature work and only interfere when it is necessary or un-avoidable. best regards

Timing is critical in dealing with lace bugs. Your extension service can recommend the date for first spraying of insecticidal soap or neem oil for your particular area. If you can make a dent in the first lace bug generation, it will greatly reduce subsequent generations. There are spray wands designed to cover leaf undersides which make things somewhat easier. The truth, however, is that good control of lace bugs is very difficult without using something with systemic action. It is also true that heavy lace bug infestation year after year can weaken plants enough to kill them. Systemic soil drenches are environmentally safer than sprays because you avoid any possibility of drift. Consumer products containing 1.47% imidacloprid applied after bloom pose very little danger to bees. I know of no studiesshowing this insecticide's presence in the following year's flowers. Check with your extension service or state agriculture department for their recommendations. Achieving good control one year, raking up and disposing of fallen leaves, will significantly reduce the problem in future years.