My project is to protect a vegetable garden from deer and rabbits. A couple of years ago I did this combination of light weight netting and some electric wires. it didn'[t work that well as it was only 7', patched together and often I forgot to keep it turned on.. This year I've had another enthusiasm so have tried a fence used by a co-worker. His consists of three low wires, electirifed, 6" apart. Has a big vegetable garden (10 children so as he put it he can't share produce with crritters). So i did almost the same except having most of the posts from the old fence I added a fourth wire nose high. It worked at first but this morning they got to my wife's sun flowers and a bit of the green beans. I was really annoyed as I put a lot of time into that fence. Well turns out the fence was all but dead. You could touch it and nothing. I had been meaning to string trim the weeds but the trimmer refused to keep working. Bought a new one and voila after trimming the voltage on the fence is now over 500 volts (500 is the limit on my meter). That's even higher than when I first put the fence up. I didn't do that thorough job in trimming. Plus I didn't realize that a few weeds would foul up the fence. Another factor besides the weeds touching the fence was expansion from the heat so in a couple of place the low wire was near or touching the ground. I need to keep a watch on that maybe figure out a spring in the system to keep up with the change in length from temp changes.

I'm doing the same thing (self-install) in my area, which like you, requires a perc test and soil analysis. Plus a permit up here, but you're allowed to do your own on your own land. I managed to score the *same* manual used in our septic installer's course for certification, and the 3-day (THREE DAYS is all the training required for anyone to become a certified installer here), was more about what a field is, then proper slope and installation. I'd recommend a chamber type system, as they're much easier (imo) to install then a pipe system. My local seller (the 2nd one...the first didn't want to lose the business of pro installers by helping little old me), was actually willing to help me clean up my septic design (I made it based on everything i learned, he sat down and improved it), and even gave me his number to call should I have any questions all weekend long. Seriously, NOT as complicated as they make you think. Heck, my dad's first septic field failed 3 times in the first 10 years and he had it done by a pro. Redid it himself finally and it's gone another 15 without issue. Go figure.

We were pretty sure we wanted a Dimplex electric fireplace installed. But one provider recommended the SimpliFire Unit. It does look nice but I’d never heard of it. Anyone with one and how do you like it?

My biggest concern is the total thickness (5/8" is thinner than 3/4" gold standard for solid hardwood). My second concern is the thickness of the wear layer...what is it???? Shaw is notorious for not mentioning these things. And the third concern is the wire brush finish. Do you have a sample that you can measure to figure out the top layer thickness. This will tell you if you are purchasing quality vs. a name with a 'look'. For an engineered wood floor that comes in at $12+/sf I would expect to see 4mm - 6mm wear layer (top wood layer). The width of these planks requires full glue spread install. That gets expensive. It will require an extra $1-$2/sf for labour + material (glue). Please DOWN LOAD and READ the installation instructions I'm including below: PDMS - PDMSViewDetails (shawinc.com) There are big warnings in the instructions which clearly point out what they cover and won't cover. This is normal...but Shaw has gone to the extremes (8 pages of SMALL PRINT instructions). They spell out the NWFA Wood Flooring Installation Best Practices. This tells me they have had PLENTY of 'builder/installer' issues in the past and they are sick and tired of taking all the blame. The requirements 'look' strict but they are in fact part of the NWFA (and Canadian Wood Flooring Association) Installation Hand book. The book, if you want to purchase it in Canada = $750! Right...so Shaw is covering it's collective butt in the VERY DETAILED installation instructions. The reason why I tell you to PRINT IT OUT and READ IT is you will need to PASS IT ON to the builder/installer SEVERAL WEEKS before the wood ARRIVES. I would print two copies. One for myself and one for the builder/contractor/installer. I would give one copy to the builder - with date and personal signature on the front page on both copies. This is to cover your own bottom line. If you have issues with the floor look to the INSTALLER first. This is normal but some homeowners blame the product first....which is not the right way to do it. Remember: 95% of flooring issues come from the HUMAN who installed it. Human error. The other 5% (or less) come down to the manufacturer.