Tub or no tub in master bath?
Rina DeRose
9 months ago
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WestCoast Hopeful
9 months agoartemis78
9 months agoRelated Discussions
Bath tub replacement results in an extra 6' at the rear of tub
Comments (5)I know I've seen some sizable niches here in the past year or so. Do a search at the bottom of the page for niches and see what you can pull up. I'll post some pics of the niches in our three bathrooms. Our niche sizes/placements/orientations were based on various factors; shower storage needs, tile shape/size, behind the wall restrictions (pipes, wiring, studs....). Guest bathroom niche: Hall Bathroom niche: MB niche: HTH!...See MoreTubs with built-in headrest or Wasauna brand bath tub?
Comments (3)seattlemamadrama ~Well my Wasauna story ended badly. The first tub was drained the wrong way for me. I shipped it back at their expense and received my replacement last week. The crate was in horrible condition, held together by plastic wrap about 2 times around it. The person who sent it to me must have received my tub and we just traded. I sent him one in perfect condition never removed from the crate. The tub he sent me was dirty, removed from the crate and damaged with scratches. I refused the delivery and call Alex for a refund. He tried to give me 300.00 off and get a new one sent to me but I just took my refund. I have not seen the credit on my card as yet, it has been 4 days. I would say stay away from them. I am in the process of looking for something else now. Good luck to you! Mariofo...See MoreReplace bath tub with jetted tub?
Comments (5)For a jetted tub used as a shower, it has to have an integral tile flange. That allows the wall cladding to overhang and any water that hits the wall to not go behind your walls. There aren't that many in that size that are inexpensive. It will need a specialized drain, and, if you want to spend any time in the tub, a supplemental heater so the water doesn't cool off so fast. Since it's a tub/shower, the wall cladding will need to be redone to be waterproof into the tub. It's possible, if the build is recent, and it was done with the proper vapor barrier behind it, that only one row of the tile would need to be pulled in order to replace the tub. But, I wouldn't count on that. I'd count on having to replace all of the wall cladding in the alcove. That can be as cheap as a plastic surround for around $100 or cheap tile with the proper vapor barrier for probably $150 or so. The first is the easiest and the least chance of leaking. The second will read as more upscale, but you have to be sure your contractor understands about the vapor barrier and correct materials to use to tile this (NOT mastic.) And since you have that torn out, it would be foolish to try to keep your current control valves for the bath unless they are also very new. New safety standards are in place for anti scald mechanisms. So, you will need a new shower/bath faucet and valve. Then you will need the electrical line run from the panel to the location for the whirlpool pump and supplemental heater. That location is usually opposite the drain side of the tub. You will need to be able to site an access panel that is removable to be able to get to the electrical innards here. That can be from an adjacent room, or from a hidden panel on the tub itself. All in all, you might be able to get all of the needed materials for 2-3K if you shop the box stores carefully and find some bargains. The danger to that is that if you are inexperienced, you don't know if you're buying quality or crap. They sell both. And that's one reason that it would be simpler to let the pro pick the products after you tell him the features that you want. Then you've got to pay the contractor labor to install all of that. The electrician's price will depend on how difficult it will be to access the panel and run the wire to the location. For that, it's a really good thing you are on a crawlspace! That makes it cheaper for both the electrician and the plumber. On the whole, I'd expect your project to cost between 5-7K, depending on location, and if you have no DIY skills to bring to the table and have to hire professionals for the whole job. And be sure that you hire someone that is licensed and insured to be in your home, and will pull the proper permits to get the job inspected with your code office. Some handyman guy isn't licensed to do electrical of that nature, and while he might be able to do the demo and get the tub in place and glue on the plastic surround, it's unlikely that he'll have the right insurance to deal with a large job like that, and thus probably wont' want to pull permits and be inspected. They are usually limited to smaller jobs like simple fixture replacements like a faucet or light. Which this isn't. Just remember, you are doing a project that combines electricity and water. You really have to know what you're doing here! A small General Contractor should be able to do the complete job, and also carry the needed papers. And he should have no problem with the code guys coming in to inspect his work either. If he does, then he's not the right person for the job....See Moreideas for behind master bath tub
Comments (5)I wouldn't do anything behind the tub, as much as I love art in its different forms etc. I like visual proportions as they are now-chandelier, window, tub with its faucet. I wouldn't want to interfere with it too much. Your window is your art...in a sense one really looks at it. I'd do someting both beautiful and very useful next to the tub-like a side table where one keep soaps/brushes (yeah..they should look good))..maybe a cool thing-y for towels (it's very hard, or else I found it to be real hard, to find something cool and free standing and narrow enough, especially new..new costs some abnormal amount of money. I personally decided to manage without..)..plants are always a good idea, to me at least One can do a shelf I suppose..but it won't stay empty, right? If you really prefer to, I'd go for smth not full length..assymetrical..I wouldn't want to repeat the window lines....See MoreSafelyBuild
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