I think you were just lucky. I did not post on your earlier question because it would have sounded bad no matter how I worded it. Although you may have blocked a few bugs the largest percentage would have come from the surrounding non blocked area. How many of the white grubs do you normally dig out from this area. July and August is the time to apply insecticide while the beetles are in the white grub stage.We do not have a major problem with Japanese beetles but I would like to know if they normally eat peonies in your area? Just a tibbit. If you would happen to pick up a garden book from the early 50's the Japanese beetle that was shown is not the current bug. At that time the green scarab beetle was what was shown as Japanese beetles not the brown things of today.

It's one of the "Sphinx" moths ... but I don't know which one. BIG moths with blunt, fuzzy heads. Maybe Pandora Sphinx moth http://tdserver1.fnal.gov/peterson/tom/Moths/Sphingidae/Sphingidae.html

jesus ,,,, i would have moved had she not taken it down ... how long a dead tree can stand.. is subject to the whim of nature and weather ... but pine is a soft wood ... so it could go faster ... anytine from death to 10 years .... but there are so many variables.. its really hard to give you any kind of direct answer ... e.g. we never really know if a tree is rotten inside.... until it is taken down ... ken

I am sensing by your comments, NYC, that you are not quite getting the purpose of the sketch I offered, which is to inspire a direction, not to prescribe a specific, etched-in-stone solution. The concept is: visually obscuring the back door some from a distance, and using minimal signage, combined with a modified walk layout (which you are invited to improve upon,) in order to direct traffic to the front of the house. Once people are on the way, they will continue to the front door. The concept would be refined by working out all of the details of how it is to be done in PLAN VIEW, not in a perspective view picture. The measured plan view lets you know exactly how much distance you have from one object to the next, in order that you can place things properly. Regarding proximity of arbor to back door and the issue of impeding light entering the house, it looks to me that you have roughly 40 or so feet of space between the house and the parking area with which to "play." By the look of the sketch, I think I've plopped the arbor somewhere between 12' and 16' clearance from the house. In the plan view that you create in order to organize future work, you could place the arbor 20' from the house, if you thought that improved upon its placement. So I can't really grasp why you'd use light entering the house as an obstacle. The arbor goes where you put it. Where I put it, it doesn't even look like an impediment to light to me. Any nearby trees have a much greater chance of affecting light entering the house. In another, separate, picture, it looks like you have much less distance between the parking and house. One, or possibly both picture views, may be misleading as to what the real truth is. That's, again, why the actual landscape-work-to-done must be laid out in a measured-to-scale, PLAN VIEW. Regarding "framing" -- edging -- the drive or walk with shrubs and/or groundcover, I do not see why you think this is necessary or desirable. Well grown and tended grass, in the places where there is sufficient light, seems preferable. In the areas where there is not sufficient light, a low groundcover would be best ... not as an "edging" per se to the paved areas, but as a bed of groundcover that works on its own accord. If it happens to abut the pavement, that is not a problem.