It's prohibited for one. And for two, to actually run an electric tankless will require most of the power that you currently have in your panel. 125-200 amps are needed. If you live in a cold climate, electrical is not really doable at all because of the incoming winter water temperature. Gas tankless is much easier to retrofit, and even it may require new gas service for the home.

Based on prices in my area: Hot water heater replacement = $1800 Electrical panel update = $2500-$4000 Cosmetic updates = $5k for carpet alone Garage Build = $18k That is why, based on the listings that have sold at $135k-$140k that already have the garage, better amenities, and better yards, I suggested a max of $115k. If the cosmetic changes also include kitchen appliances, counters, tile work in the baths, etc., you'll pay even more to bring the house up to where the comps were already at when purchased. Why should you pay more in purchase price to get less of a house to start with?

linste, there's another thread going right now about Perfection as a goal. On it there is some commentary about the paucity of small kitchen projects on the GW Kitchens Forum. Yours is a perfect example of what we need to be thinking about and I congratulate you for digging about for ideas here. Thanks for explaining the tight budget and retaining existing appliances. (I also began a project with the assumption that our existing white appliances would stay. Since then have updated range to a GE Profile two-oven, but that cost me the pan drawer. You haven't the luxury I would suspect.) But...a very modest pot rack or a wall-hung pots and pans pegboard? line of hooks? might fit to left of main door into your room to right of range. My daughter in Alaska who has a tiny house just put up a hanging pot rack and it won her some very helpful space elsewhere. Hey, even Julia Child put pots on her wall! __ Darn! Had hoped that the bathroom door could move down the wall. A pocket door is not a terrifically expensive thing to do but magically making more wall space is pretty tough at any price. You can't make the bath open into a different room, can you? ___ We need to point out to other readers that the appliances in the plan drawing are fantasy appliances. Look at the photos to see the real ones. No French door refrig! No 36 inch range! ___ Your kitchen is an example of one that will never reach "perfection" and the "high end" unless you get an infusion of cash and resolve. "Good enough" and a great paint job will have to suffice. Google "Uncle Thorvald's Happy Kitchen" for some reassurance that you're nevertheless on the right track. You might also want to dig out some GW discussions on European kitchens in general and on apartment kitchens. Look at The Kitchn and Apartment Therapy to see some real world modest spaces. A microwave hood will save you counterspace but it brings us back to the necessity of having "plunk space" for the hot stuff being removed from it. Back to square one I guess. Your original title for this thread still applies. Have fun stormin' the castle!

The 100 amp double breaker protects the wiring running to the house, so you cannot change it without verifying the size and ampacity of the wire to the subpanel, and making sure it matches. The 125 amp breaker in the house panel is simply a disconnect. Its size is does not really matter because the garage breaker will limit current to 100 amps. The 125 amp breaker in the subpanel just gives you a quick way to shut off power (and meet code requirements) at the house end. Bruce