They are a semi-reputible dealer, still the best way to buy a tree is from a nursery where you actually see it. Other than a few larger trees what most sell are large rooted cuttings with very little development at all. There are a few different varieties of 'Chinese Elm' on the market, most look the same, there are some (like some Oaks) which don't drop last years leaves until the new buds break. This could be what's happening, especially if it' was kept in a greenhouse or cold house over winter. I'd keep it just barely moist and watch for new buds before watering too much. Bob

Wow! That's a great list. Thank you. I may spend some time finding these plants and at the right size, but it worths the effort and with patience I will find quite a few. I have Eugenia Uniflora (Surinam cherry) which produces lots of delicious fruits with large seeds that sprout easily. Rosemarine as a bonsai seems interesting and I never thought of it. Portulacaria was never my favorite bonsai plant because the branches are too soft, they become floppy and grow untidily despite intensive pruning. I once headed-back such a plant and it regrew horizontal branches in the same fashion.

Stan, wedging will sometimes work...but it's rare to be able to wedge something tight enough where it doesn't shift because of a strong wind or a direct hit from the hose. So if you don't see any new roots attaching to the tree within the next couple of weeks...here are the possible causes... 1. insufficient light/heat - the closer you are to the coast, the more direct sun you'll need to give CAM orchids and/or intermediate/warm growers. 2. pests - slugs/snails can really climb! Sowbugs will also eat orchid roots and new growth. Not sure if mice/rats/squirrels will eat new roots but they will sure eat the pseudobulbs. 3. loosely attached - if an orchid has wiggle room, the delicate root tips can be broken off. Unlike Tillandsias, orchids are all about the roots. Moss is essential for some orchids...generally speaking orchids that lack decent storage facilities...such as most Pleurothallids. But moss has the significant drawback of providing a perfect haven for slugs, sowbugs and millipedes. Plus, it's risky to use with orchids that like to dry out between waterings...such as CAM orchids. It's not so much an issue during summer...but it can greatly increase the chances of rot during our occasionally wet winters. Regarding broken off pieces...it depends how large they are. If they are small enough that I'd lose track of them on a tree...then I'll tightly attach them to a piece of wood that I can hang somewhere.

Maybe I'm just blanking them out because I have seen so many of them all over the West but I don't remember a lot of ponderosa pines in the Bay Area, are you sure these aren't something else like Canary Island pine, Torrey pine or one of the other pines that have been much planted in coastal California communities? If you want a long-needled pine the endangered yet visually appealing Torrey pine is probably what you should plant anyway. See it at the San Francisco Botanic Garden and similar places. In cultivation it has grown much larger than in the wild. In case it pertains some kind of aggressive needle cast has been sweeping through long-planted and often rather sizable ponderosa and Coulter pines on properties up here, spoiling their appearance. So far I have not seen it on Jeffrey pine, perhaps this is resistant. This latter species is more handsome than ponderosa pine anyway; I see some structural features in your second photo that make me suspect the trees behind the lodge are actually examples of this species also. I know of only one Torrey pine around here so there isn't much basis for seeing if it could pick up the needle problem also (so far it looks good, as far as I have seen from a little distance anyway).