floraluk- 'Flowers may have a scent or not. Leaves may have a scent or not. Flowers and leaves on the same plant do not necessarily smell alike.' So, I guess I can conclude it is not the Cherry Laurel because the leaves should have a scent regardless of whether it flowers?

Did they tell you how the root the plant from cuttings? Viburnums are generally not too tricky to propagate from cuttings but there are techniques that will definitely enhance your chances of success. Timing. Ideally you want cuttings in the softwood stage - the tip of the branch bendable but not so bendy that it does not snap off. So any time from late spring through summer. You want a tip cutting that has at least two sets of leaves - about 3-5" in length. And preferrably no flowers (if any, cut off). Make the cut about 1" below the second set of leaves - strip these off. Dip in rooting hormone then plant in a well draining starting medium with the lower leaf nodes below the soil. Cut the remaining leaves in half to reduce transipration. It helps a lot if you place the starts in their pots inside a clear plastic bag to prevent evaporation, keeping the plastic off the leaves. Bottom heat, if you can provide it, will hasten root development. Provide room temperatures - right around 70F is good - and keep out of direct sunlight. Keep the potting medium moist but not wet. Rooting should occur in about 4-6 weeks. Once firm rooting has been established, the cuttings can be planted up into a larger pot. But it will take time for a proper root system to develop and you may not be able to plant them out in the garden without protection for a couple of growing seasons. A greenhouse or cold frame would be helpful. Can't say how likely your cuttings are to take this late in the season but it is always suggested to expect a fair percentage of failure at any time. IOW, take a whole lot more cuttings than you think you need :-)

Looks like current to me too. Most likely alpine current which is grown for an ornamental use unless someone planted a current variety there for the fruit (like Red lake, rovada ect) which make mighty fine current jelly.

Currant is a plant that as a landscape shrub has a limited use. As you've discovered, it's prone to some foliar problems, and there are a couple of insect issues that can arise. However, these are merely cosmetic blemishes, merely making the plant not look as great as you'd like it to. Something capable of outright killing this plant? while those problems do exist (as they do for just about anything alive), they are rare. When it comes to pruning currant, as a hedge, as they were planted before they were yours, they are quite forgiving. Also, these are established plants...so first, they are forgiving in nature when it comes to pruning (meaning, go ahead, do your worst...the only thing you have to lose is something you don't like), they are also plants that have an energy reserve in that root system. So yeah, go head, do your worst...uhm, best. You'll learn something, and you'll have done it yourself. The whole first year, second year, third year pruning thing is a little different than what you are looking to do. That's for size reduction but still keeping the plant is good shape. also, pruning for fruit production isn't really what you are looking to do. I commend you for doing some background in how to prune. Now I want you to forget it, don't worry about knowing everything before you do anything, and to in part, learn by doing. A little studying is good, a little practical experience is good...then after a little hands on, go back and read again...you'll see things with an entirely new understanding.