We took pictures of the preformed niche (below) when we installed it after the Hardibacker. We cut a hole in the hardibacker. It is made to fit perfectly between 2 studs. We stacked 2 on top of each other. In the other picture my husband is installing the first tile. We got this from the company in the link below. They were really helpful and answered all of our questions. [IMG]http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n311/Carolin777/bathroomremodel014.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n311/Carolin777/bathroomremodel022.jpg[/IMG] Here is a link that might be useful: Proform Niches

"...I don't know what is 8+9. ...." I see you used a liquid waterproofing from Laticrete now. Was the reinforcing mesh used? Was the concrete board all first taped with mesh and thin-set and allowed to dry prior to waterproofing? Was the waterproofing given seven days to cure prior to flood test? Did you flood test? "....Attaching some more pics to give an idea of original framing as well as waterproofing layers…....." I don't like any of the framing you show in that first picture. The walls appeared to be framed with "Hat Track" which we use for boarding ceilings here in Vancouver. You would expect to see 2"x4" wall studs metal with 2"x4" Metal Track top and bottom. Seeing these I fear your wall assembly was not rigid enough and the failed grout the result of the wall flexing when pushed on. At the very top you see the Metal Track. There is one up and one down. Both pinned to the concrete floor and ceiling with wedge pins. I raised the ceiling to make room for the rain head and am adding a boarder inside the shower to continue the old ceiling height. Even these studs are pretty light weight. I believe the proper stud by the book is the heavier gauge stud. The kind not stocked in Home Depots but rather the drywall metal speciality stores. Local inspectors let this fly but crack down hard on wood framing and no firestopping. The spray foam I used in stead of throwing away. I find it adds one more level of strength to a new dropped in stud. Once dry it gets screwed off from the back side. Why does it appear you used two layers of 1/4" backer board. Looks like first 1/4" Wonderboard then 1/4" Hardie? The poly behind the backer board would be I think designed to lap over a rubber liner or something like Noble Company's Chloral. Link URL: http://noblecompany.com/products/chloraloy/

If you don’t have an itemized quote, then you really should insist on one from here on out. The re-do is going to cost you half of that amount. Right now you are out of pocket $400.00 for the tile (are you interested in a different tile, because now is the time), the cost of labor, which you do not know and have already paid for, and the cost of demolition. My recommendation for moving forward is to agree to have him return the wall to its original condition if you trust him to do this, and subtract $800 from your next payment, $400 for your tile, $400 for the installation you already paid for. Chalk the other $800 up to the cost of doing business the way you’re doing it. But in the end, choose numbers that you think are fair. It is never easy negotiating this kind of thing. I hope you get out of it what you think is fair.

there is one schluter product with a 5/8 inch profile. I would prefer to miter but have heard it is tough with cement. Haven't tried it yet though.