Brick doesn't get messier with age. Good brick work should look the same for a hundred years unless the mortar deteriorates and then there would be gaps between the bricks. If you want it to look old choose a hand moulded or water struck brick and use the special brick shapes and detailing found on older buildings.

I think by the time you eliminate all of the warmth of those wood cabinets from the room, you are going to have a rather cold feel and will be desperately trying to inject some warmth back into it. Leave the island alone for now if you are committed to painting. But, I'll also repeat what has been said already about the lighting. That is the FIRST thing to address before you start down the unalterable road of painting wood cabinets. With the lighting addressed properly, you may actually feel quite differently about what's there. It really isn't so bad. It works well together color wise, and depending on what the rest of the home looks like, it may even work better with the rest of the home than a white kitchen would. If you "just need a change", then I think simply addressing the island itself while leaving the perimeter cabinets alone could do that for you. A terra cotta island with the warm wood cabinets is a really great look. Either way, make sure that the cabinets are painted properly, whether you DIY or have them done. Here is how I would expect a pro to spray paint kitchen cabinets. A brush painted job would differ slightly in that you wouldn't hang the doors to paint. You'd place them on a work table or easel instead. It's time intensive work, and should take 7-14 days to accomplish completely and cost between 3K-7K depending on kitchen size and amount of detail in cabinets. Remove doors and drawer fronts. Remove hinges and hardware. Clean with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) Rinse and let dry. Scrape any loose finish. Fill any damaged spots or hardware holes that won't be reused. Sand fill smooth. Scuff sand the rest. Tack off dust. Hang in dust free paint booth with wires through hardware points. Tack off dust again. Spray with alkyd based primer. Scuff sand again. Tack off dust. Spray with second coat of primer. Spray with first finish coat of latex enamel. Spray with second coat of latex. If glazing is to occur, that is next. Spray with conversion varnish. (If being brush painted, this step is typically skipped.) Add more molding or decorative details to boxes, filling nail holes and sanding smooth. Repeat prep process with face frames and exposed cabinet sides using plastic to create a spray booth on site. If interiors are to be done, they are done before face frames and sides. Interiors are difficult, and add both time and expense to the job. Allow everything to fully cure. Clean hinges and hardware and clear coat if you're keeping the old hardware. Install new (or old) hinges and hardware. Re-install doors and drawers and adjust for proper clearances. If you are receiving a job without this amount of effort, then you are not receiving a quality professional job.

The garage door is clay. The trim is sand. Changing the siding, trim, facia, gutters etc is not in the budget so I have to choose windows that will go with what I have. In general, I love white, but would think I need something else on the house for it to relate to. Would bronze give it a nice pop? Thanks!

@clairebuoyant1 all I know is that it's a Marcus William embroidered fabric and NOT cheap but I can find out the # if needed. I'm leaving this one up to my decorator and prob never would have chosen it although it does go well with grey-ish backsplash Walker Zanger tile called "Wedgewood Blue" believe it or not. It's a "chameleon" of a color and I love it with my Imperial Danby marble countertops. The only reason I need the extra trim is due to the fact that the window is wider than the fabric.