Ptgr: Tygon is a Generic Brand Name for Petroleum Based Use. For your Older Husky you may have to verify both ID and OD of the Fuel line you currently have at a local auto supply via bringing in a section of your current line. Much easier would be to just pick up a foot of OEM Hose from your Local Saw Dealer. Ensure to check / replace if warranted all Carburetor and return to tank and vent lines along with thorough inspection or replacement of Fuel Filter and check tightness of all connections while your at it. As you are aware OEM Fuel lines can last up to 25-30 Yrs Service if maintained , rather cheap price for such extended use , Right ? Note: I have both Pioneer , Husky and Stihl saws all use different Style and composite material fuel line 5mm thru 1/4" & 5/16" OD with different ID dimensions accordingly lol . Good luck Dude with your line replacement and Happy Cutting !

DMForcier - depending on how many peppers you're using (by weight) you may be risking botulism only using 1/3C of vinegar. University of GA did salsa acidification studies, including onions only and peppers only for comparison. Study concentrated on lemon and lime juice since they are more acidic and result in a more authentic salsa flavor, but it's worth noting that 1/4C of lemon or lime juice safely acidified up to 1 full pint (or app 300g by weight) of peppers (1/4" dice). I wouldn't go over the 300g weight for under 1/4C (60ml) lemon/lime juice. VINEGAR REQUIRES APP. TWICE AS MUCH (3/8C) TO GIVE THE SAME RESULTS (they were shooting for a pH below 4.0). 1/4C of vinegar only brought the salsa (with tomatoes which are more acidic than peppers) to 4.23, 1/8C to 4.48 which is on the hairy edge. They did not test vinegar in onion-only or pepper-only cases but I'd say 3/8C (90ml) for 300g would give a pH of under 4.0 that could be tested with litmus paper, less than that and you'd have to use a pH meter according to the FDA since pH would be over 4.0, 1/3C per 300g may be safe around 4.4 - 4.5 but you'd have to use a pH meter (a good one, properly calibrated) to measure it. They also processed the jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes to aid in acidification, make a stronger seal, and less chance of mold (which also can raise pH to an unsafe level over time). There are many pickled pepper recipes available on the UGA/NCHFP website. You can skip the sugar, spices, etc. if all you want is acidified peppers to drain (or not) and blend up later for a sauce. But the ratio of peppers (and size if going by volume not weight) to vinegar is crucial. Please don't vacuum seal (even a weak vacuum by what you are doing, called open kettle canning, or using a Foodsaver jar attachment) peppers or other low-acid foods without proper acidification unless you are freezing them. Here is a link that might be useful: NCHFP Salsa Acidification study

I see your solution I don't like it. If the water from the downspout freezes in the vertical line it will prevent your discharge line from letting water exit from the sump pump. That verticals line can freeze gradually if the downspout is only dripping water into the vehicle line. If you don't have a good flow of water it will freeze before it gets to the end of the line no matter what drop vertically there is. It's referred to as slow flow freeze here. Drip freeze, drip freeze, repeat. A larger diameter line as Brickeeye suggests makes the problem worse because in a larger diameter line there is less water vertically in the line which means the depth of water is less and the flow is wider which helps it freeze faster. A shallow puddle will freeze faster than a deep puddle. Heat trace the exit line from the sump or at least insulate it with insulating pipe tape. Many sewage lines to cisterns and septic beds have frozen this year because in the wisdom of our county they changed the code from 3" discharge to 4" from the dwelling to the septic bed or cistern We have a bit of experience with freezing here. Some places have frozen water this year that never froze in the history of the home. If you think it won't freeze again this year what brings you to that conclusion? This will be a long winter and late spring. I've lived here on the Great Lakes for 60 years and never felt the cold and constant wind like this winter. My heat trace line is good to minus 40C and it froze, 40C is where centigrade and Fahrenheit meets. -40C is -40F. Edit, do not put heat tracing on this line, of there isn't any water in the line it will melt the PVC or ABS. This post was edited by SouthernCanuck on Fri, Feb 28, 14 at 9:35

1. Universal Lid can be sealed with the hand-held FreshSaver - no hose or lid sealer needed. I'm glad you asked, I've never tried using the FreshSaver for that task. The Universal Lids come in two sizes and you can use them on any "solid" container that has a smooth rim. I do have one concern using the FreshSaver instead of the FoodSaver with hose and jar sealer. When all the air is out of the container, the FoodSaver stops. You're never really sure that's true using the hand-held FreshSaver. You might want to call FoodSaver and talk to them for more information. 2. From FoodSaver user manual: To Vacuum with Mason Jar - Always pre-soak new metal lids. Bring water to boil, then turn off. Pre-soak lids 5-10 minutes. Helpful hint: Make sure your lids are separated during this process. When you do several lids at a time they tend to stack. I love my little Lid Sterilizing Rack for this process. You can put 12 regular or wide-mouth lids in the rack, which keeps the lids separated for maximum exposure to the hot water 3. It works great for salad greens, just make sure you do NOT vacuum-seal strong smelling vegetables, such as cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower. Do not vacuum package whole avocados with their pits, but I do vacuum-seal guacamole and it will stay fresh much longer. 4. If you have a Tuesday Morning store near you, you might want to look there for FoodSaver items. That's where I got my FreshSaver. I also bought a FoodSaver there for $60 (included bags, rolls of bags, 1 canister, jar sealer and hose). 5. One thing to keep in mind with a new dehydrator, make sure it has a variable temperature thermostat. Check out the link below for more general information. Sounds like you are ready for a new food adventure! ;-) -Grainlady Here is a link that might be useful: NCHFP - Dehydrators