Thanks. Yes, I added the lime because of the soil test recommendation, but they did recommend calcitic lime, and none of the ones at Home Depot said calcitic, so I just assumed they were all calcitic. I still don't know if they are or not, but I went to Agway recently and saw virtually no magnesium in their lime, and the cashier told me it was calcitic lime. I bought a bag, which I haven't yet used. I figure I'll wait until the next soil test. I'll do the structural test you mention. I'll gather it from different areas and test each. I do already notice some bumpiness in the new lawn area, so that's not a comforting thing after what you've told me can happen over years. It seems very sensitive to the lawnmower. At nearly every mower turn, I feel I disturb at least some of the grading that I did before seeding. It was dead flat then. I also pulled a lot of weeds, which made it even more bumpy. I'm a bit concerned now about potential amendments. Am I understanding you correctly that you don't believe it's possible to repair the areas of your lawn and your neighbors because of the addition of topsoil over the years? I want to believe there's a solution for everything. Core or liquid aeration maybe? Different seed variety? Digging up the soil and adding a deep layer of good soil? There has to be something, right? BTW, a sprinkler system was just installed here and talk about bumpy! The sprinkler guy recommended getting soil and feathering it out around the bumps. But yes, this lawn is going to need some real work to get it flat again. Now you're making me wonder about topdressing, which I was planning on doing later on this year. This is becoming quite a project. I really should have sodded, and I'm thinking that careful cutting down of the high spots might be better in many areas than feathering with more soil.

I've never grown a Meyer indoors; so I don't have an answer about coloration. In general the primary factor in coloration is maturity and the difference between day and night temperatures that causes the color; too little difference equals minimal coloring. Maturity for a Meyer is 8 to 8.5 brix; at that point the full yellow color is developed; but may be hidden by chlorophyl. There is a lot of technical jibberish; but essentially there is an enzyme called chlorphylase which breaks down the chlorophyll and reveals the underlying color. For oranges and grapefruits commercial growers sometimes use ethylene gas or ethephon bath to promote degreening; but that doesn't seem to work very well with Meyers. Anyway, you ask an interesting question; let us know what happens.

Yes figs are EXTREMELY easy to root and fortunately there are several good methods that can be used. However, M Taggart indicated he/she does not have a heating mat and is questioning whether or not moving to a warmer room is advisable. I believe that I have answered those specific questions. Al is the one confusing the situation by throwing in the use of propagation mats.....which M Taggert has already stated he/she does not have. Maybe one day we will see the details of AL's written fig rooting method(s). I know that he has been passing a rooting method around to certain forum members. The IMPROPER use of heating mats can be very problematic and is often THE CAUSE of rooting failures. IMO the risk/benefit and cost/benefit analysis of using any external heating source is not justified for a hobby rooter when very reliable rooting can be conducted INDOORS at room temperature. Normal room temperature (70 - 75 degs F) works real well and no propagation mat is needed. Al recently posted this suggestion to another forum member: "I've rooted thousands of deciduous cuttings by sticking in a damp, sterile medium and applying bottom heat to keep the cuttings in the 70-75* range. I normally provide some type of tenting to keep humidity very high, but vent the tent. Keeping air temps a little cooler than soil temps (10*) is also helpful. I remove bottom heat a soon as the cuttings have struck." In answer to M Taggert's question in this thread, Al references a 55 to 65 degree rooting temperature. In the quotation I reference above Al recommends a 70 to 75 deg rooting temperature to another person. Which is it?????..... the 55 to 65 cited above or is it the 70 to 75 range he cited in another post???? A post, by the way, in which I was criticized by some forum members when I stated the obvious......that a 70 to 75 deg temperature range is plain old room temperature (see link below). It would be helpful to forum members if Al posted his exact fig rooting method(s). Maybe there would be less confusion. M Taggert, in answer to your question and in consideration of your particular situation.....move your cuttings as I've suggested above. Keep the top on your Rubbermaid box. Save your money and do not go out to buy a propagation mat.....it simply IS NOT NEEDED in your situation. FYI.... if interested in reading more about my preferred ROOM TEMPERATURE rooting method see the attached thread (link below). You will be very pleased with the results that you obtain if you follow this very simple fig rooting method. I consistently obtain a very high rooting success using this method. You DO NOT NEED a heating pad, nor a propagation mat, nor a temperature controlled device, nor any additional heat whatsoever from any source when rooting indoors. Many forum members have had their cuttings severely damaged or destroyed thru the improper use of heating devices that were recommended by others. Those devices are better used in an OUTDOOR (Greenhouse) type of rooting environment. Dan Here is a link that might be useful: An easy and reliable rooting method

Thank you for responding! Many recipes have times for different sizes, but never mention what to do if going to a smaller size. I wanted to do this for myself also for various things that I know good n well my kids won't help me eat. Certain relishes, salsas, sauces, etc, just want to make enough for a serving for me with some leftovers. I served this chili sauce with some leftover grilled chicken, shredded up, as a sandwich. Fantastic! Like a fruity-sweet Manwich sauce, not too bbq-y and not too Italian.