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How to install a heavy wall mount range hood with one off center stud

12 months ago

last modified: 12 months ago

I need to install a heavy (at least 70 lbs not counting the duct and duct cover above), wall mount 30 inch width range hood on a lath and plaster wall. Initially I thought there were two usable studs, but after I pulled the range away from the wall, I realized likely only one (the one on the right) is usable because the previous owner had cut a 6 inch chunk out of the stud on the left to accommodate a recess for the gas line. The one intact stud is only 4 inches away from the right edge of where the range hood would be, which means it is extremely off center. I wonder what the best way is to mount this range hood.

Just to add, the manufacturer's installation instructions say that additional screws can be applied directly through the back panel of the range hood to provide additional security. I wonder if it makes sense to just screw the back of the hood to multiple laths. While a single lath doesn't provide enough strength, if I screw the hood to multple pieces, maybe it'd be more secure?

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Comments (5)

A Mat
12 months ago
Add a ”usable stud”. Remove wall covering add required framing, replace wall covering.
xh_ac
Original Author
12 months ago
@User: Are you referring to something like what's done in this video? Where would the blocking be added (e.g., where the chopped off stud is vs where the hood will be mounted?)
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If your hood is on an outside wall, your not going to want to protrude through the roof too close to an overhang, especially if you are in cold country with ice dam concerns.You would have to elbow up to a higher location.In our area,a fire stop is required where the ducting enters the cieling/attic with any framing required to be 2" away from the duct.A fire stop is a sheet metal jack that accepts the ducting in the center.The fire stop is attached in your attic to cieling joists or blocking or both.The fire stop isn't so much for heat,as hoods aren't high heat,but are required to slow fire through penetrations.Your roof sheathing should be cut 2" larger than the ducting as well. The roof jack will easily cover that. A t-top roof jack is simply a jack that has a horizontal "hood" that keeps water out of the jack/ducting. You are going to want to study how other vents on your roof were flashed as well concerning your roofing, as an improper flashed jack is a guaranteed leak.If you use foil tape on the seams of your ducting,(my choice), make sure it is rated for heat.Good luck on your project! You might want to check in with your local yocals for venting requirements in your area. That's what they are there for and is a safer bet.
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I get so frustrated with the advice to make do with half a**ed work. No - these are supposed to be professional tradesmen. This is a reno and sometimes it is tough to work around existing structure, but this is when they needed to touch base with you and provide you with options. Original design will be impossible, will cost $x.00 to make happen, special order cabinets to work with the distance, opt for counter mounted faucets. It is your money, your home and your decision. There is no excuse for not placing the plumbing exactly as designed or explaining the issues with you before proceeding to do what they assumed would be okay. I am mid way through a whole home reno and have had a couple of issues where things couldn't be done exactly the way I envisioned, I have an electrical outlet that I wanted to have moved over so it wouldn't require a cutout in the mirror. My electrician explained that it would run a few hundred dollars to move the outlet due to a vent pipe in the wall and something about code violation. I opted for the cutout in the mirror, but it was my choice.
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Say what? I've had gas stoves from antiques to 48" "professional" ones installed next to the drywall. The IRC, building, and fire codes are silent on this. The installation for various appliances may place clearance limits, on the side/rear, but many that have a raised rear (i.e. not drop ins) have 0 rear clearance requirements. Drop-ins typically have a 6" limit on the rear. And none of this has squat to do with gas versus electric. The only thing different about gas appliances typically is venting and the requirement for CO detectors.
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wdccruise
12 months ago
last modified: 12 months ago
"6 inch chunk out of the stud"

"chopped off stud"

I don't know what these terms describe, but the blocking would be installed between two studs at the height needed for the screws that attach the hood to the wall. For example, look at page 14 of these Zephy hood installation instructions. The hood is positioned 26" above the cooktop. The hood is attached to the wall at Line B, 12-1/4" above the bottom of the hood. Therefore the blocking must include a height of 38-1/4" (= 26 + 12-1/4) above the cooktop. (Note also that the screws are 2" and 3-1/2" right and left, respectively, from the centerline of the hood.)
xh_ac
Original Author
12 months ago
@wdccruise, sorry I meant something like in this photo that I found online. In my case, one of the two studs in the wall behind the gas ranged was cut by 6 inches or so near the floor for a recess space for the gas line. I wonder if blocking will help if one of the two studs is not really usable anymore. If it still will help, then I would definitely go with the blocking route.
kaseki
12 months ago
last modified: 12 months ago
Ref: photo linked above. Totally unsat in my opinion. I looks like the entire wall is being held up by the sheerock. I would be surprised if the top of that wall is specially constructed to hang the wall, and in any case the bottoms of the studs should be tied together by a sill with some type of support. Any stud that is cut should be framed out so that its load is carried by extra studs to the sides, as for windows, or some other structural means employed. The cut stud of the OP similarly needs to be addressed. Here is a randomly selected overview: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/framing/anatomy-of-a-load-bearing-wood-framed-wall

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