Yes, I've got broccoli, cabbage, peas, onions, oregano, chives and sage all growing out there without a solitary issue. It's only my pak choi, and I've got two batches of it growing at opposite ends of my garden, both with this same problem. I'm also remembering that I didn't have this problem with the leaves until recently. When I planted them out, they were fine for a while. I'm thinking a couple weeks at least. Then they developed this "rash" almost overnight. I'm wondering if it's just an oddity with this particular variety. Maybe it doesn't like the sharp fluctuation in temperatures we can get around here. Thanks for the advice on the containers, BTW. They're new to the garden this year and I've never tried to grow veggies in a container (I hate watering). I'll remember that when I get my tomatoes and peppers in there.

You shouldn't prune anything green from a plant in steep decline. 'Green' is the color of the pigment chlorophyll which is essential to photosynthesis, which is the process by which plants make their food - carbohydrate/ sugar. Also, the first phase of the shedding process is resorption, during which the plant reclaims and recycles nutrients and other biocompounds already paid for in terms of energy outlay. The plant has the look of having being chronically over-watered or suffering from a high level of dissolved solids in the soil. Your pot does have a drain hole - yes? If you've fertilized with an organic fertilizer or one deriving its nitrogen from urea, the damage could potentially be ammonium toxicity. Ideally. you would depot the tree, inspect for root rot, and correct if required by cutting all rot back to sound tissue. If you find no root rot, make sure your watering is under control. The oft parroted advice to water when the top 2.5-5cm of soil is dry is a recipe for over-watering. Unless your pot is 10cm deep or less, it doesn't matter a whit whether the top 5cm of the soil is dry or not. There are few if any fine roots there anyway; and if there are, it's proof of over-watering. What's important is the moisture level at the bottom of the pot, and you can determine that by using a 'tell'. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. You didn't say much about what else you're doing for the plant, culturally? Al

From the other thread, I see you're in Winnipeg, Manitoba. If memory serves, that's south central Canada. Is the pH usually that high in your area? I would think it would be neutral to low. If the normal condition of your soil is low pH and the pH is high because of over liming, I would hesitate before adding sulfur. The pH will likely move lower anyway. If your soil is naturally high in pH, it's very difficult to get much of a change in pH over a large area like a lawn using sulfur, anyway, so it is usually used on a more localized basis to correct chlorosis in individual plants. You may well see better results by adding as much organic matter as you can. The OM will help bring the pH closer to neutral, but it also acts as a buffering agent, so that high pH doesn't interfere with plants' ability to use nutrients. If you have iron chlorosis now, adding iron isn't likely to help much unless you add EDDHA chelated iron. With a pH that high, iron chlorosis is more likely to be caused by the iron being in an unavailable state rather than being absent. Iron Sulfate won't help at all, and even EDTA chelated iron isn't likely to be very helpful.

Pv Picotee, Allgemeine Deutsche Rosenneuheitenprufung (ADR), is a German rose trial. There are ten test gardens throughout Germany, where new roses are intensely tested for three year terms. They are tested mostly for disease resistance and winter hardiness under a variety of GERMAN growing conditions, hence 10 gardens in differing locales are used to get a broader picture of a rose's attributes. Those roses that pass the trial garden tests are awarded the coveted ADR designation. A rose can lose its ADR award if it later proves to have been given the award prematurely, and later on begins to show its true nature of disease and winter hardiness issues that it did not show during its 3 yr. trial, and do not now meet the judges minimum requirements. Although the very varying growing zones and environmental conditions we experience in the USA may cause an ADR award to be irrelevant. However, many of us who have similar zones (usually USA zones 6 an 7) to the zones of the test gardens in Gemany where the roses are put through their trials, find an ADR awarded rose a good indication that it will perform very well in our gardens regarding disease resistances and winter hardiness. Moses