Thank you for your responses. Yes, Ultra Windows and millworkman, I did get a quote for Don Young windows. It's the most affordable quote so far, but I do not love the way they look and I'm also not convinced that pure aluminum will work well in my climate. When comparing Marvin Integrity and Andersen 100 purely from a quality/performance perspective, are there BIG differences? In other words, can I expect the Integrity fiberglass option to give me a couple decades of good performance and is that same quality not expected from Andersen 100, since it's their entry-level window? OR would you say they're similar in this regard? I ask because, for the same 8 windows (no divided light grids), the quote for Integrity is $5803 and the quote from Andersen 100 is $3910. So, obviously, if there are no significant performance differences--AND because I generally like the look of both, I would go with Andersen. However, here's the catch. I am considering a different stylistic option as well. Since I'm so fond of the steel casements that were originally on my house, I'm considering paying extra for divided light grids. IF I go with divided lights, I'm thinking of going with Semco aluminum clad wood, which quote the same 8 windows above (WITH divided light grids) at $6512. The cost to add grids to the Semco windows is only about 20% more than non-grids. Mysteriously, the Andersen price jumps to 60% higher (from $3910 to $6111) with grids! What's the deal with that?? I asked the rep why the price jumps so much with grids but she didn't really have an explanation except to say that the MORE grids you have the higher the price...I'll be sending her a list of windows specifying how many grids per window. I'm not considering the Integrity grid windows because they only have grids between the glass--not on the interior and exterior, and I'm not a fan of that look. That's a LOT of information--now you all have a view of the chaos currently in my mind. I appreciate whatever insight/expertise you can share!

Ok, you've convinced me to go with dark sashes and muntins! Thank you for the feedback! Some more variations (I'm kind of obsessed). Bottom left is existing window frame colours with muntins added, and stucco painted (tudor boards kept the existing colour) Bottom right is dark sashes, a taupe-y casing, and both stucco and tudor boards repainted. (Top left existing, top right was an old version with lighter muntins/sash)

Wow Celery...your renderings are very cool. Definitely helps to visualize. Love the look over cover above but regretfully conflicts with the window over front door and as much as I would like a taller door, cannot change this at this time. I would like to remove the oversized columns and free up some space on the bricked patio...add planters left and right of door. I love Amy Lynns suggestions for new lighting. Attaching a photo of corbels that I thought might be workable with existing cover minus the dental moulding that is there. Either these or squared columns cut in half against the brick to free up some room on patio...maybe keeping trim lighter in color except the darkening gutters and downspouts...partly to keep cleaner looking...they get sooo dirty..thoughts?

Spring is for planting!!!! Plant the grass now. Don't buy grass seed from bags in a big box store. Much of what's in them is weeds. Well they're weeds in your climate. In other climates the seed you need would also be weeds for them. But your not only paying for seed you don't need but you're planting seed that'll haunt you forever. I'm talking Bermuda grass. My neighbor planted about a 1/3 of an acre with the stuff. It's all over the beds, A 3 foot wall of brown grass all winter in the vacant lawn on the other side of me. It's invaded the deep woods in back. And it sends runners all through my gardens. Find a place that sells grass seed from a large container with a scoop and a scale. Find a mix with perennial rye, fescue and Kentucky Blue grass. Here they sell a mix called Penn State Mix, maybe they sell the same mix as Mass Mix, I don't know. What I've always used is from Pennington Seed. They're getting bashed on the Internet, but I've never had problems with it. They used to recommend 3 pounds per 1000 Sq Ft. Now they say 4 pounds. I've always applied grass seed thick. Maybe 6 pounds per 1000 Sq Ft. I'd suggest you cover it with bulk Mushroom Compost which doesn't smell as bad as manure. When it rains on it or you water it most of the smell is gone. On either product. Spread the seed and then the mushroom compost about an inch thick. Throw the shovels full or rock the shovel so it falls off the sides as you rock. The depth isn't a science project. Two inches won't stop the seed from sprouting or keep the old grass from coming up thru it. But 2 inches costs twice as much as an inch. As far as the crab grass it's too late for this year. It's already sprouted. 2nd or 3rd week of April is about it to keep it from sprouting with pre-emergent. Weed killer won't kill it as it's a grass. As far as watering don't over do it. If it rains don't water. If it rains this evening don't water tomorrow, unless it gets to 90 or so. Remember one of the advantages of the mushroom compost is it keeps moisture in and under it. After it sprouts you'll see off grass sprouting. It has a different lighter green color. Pull it, it should come out easy. Walking on the grass won't hurt it. Mow it when it needs it. Waiting till you can't get the mower thru it or can't pick up the clippings won't make it worth putting off mowing. You can use a weed killer a month after the seed germinates. But remember; the fescue and Kentucky Blue grass takes 3 weeks to germinate. So wait at least 6 weeks to apply weed killer. This fall over seed with the same grass seed or spot seed as needed. Next spring apply the Pre-emergent for the crab grass.