Support beam inquiry - something thin and flat?
Holly Robinson
last year
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millworkman
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thin stems not holding up blooms
Comments (12)My experience is that a couple more seasons of maturity firms up those spindly canes, so I just give the wavering ones support--sometimes a twiglet that fell off a tree, although I have some nice green metal stakes with a circular "head" that can hold the weak cane also. I've also had the problem with my Braveheart which from the beginning grew big, fat canes that spread out near the top to form large cluster blooms. Those were so heavy that the stout canes couldn't always stay upright, so I would have to prop them up. However, I discovered this year that I need to prune this rose more drastically than I do most of my shrub roses. I cut it back by more than half. It is now forming all that heavy cluster growth, but it is down lower on the cane and seems able to support it much better--as opposed to taller canes that suddenly became top-heavy with all that spreading candelabra kind of growth at the top. Learning the individual likes and dislikes of our different roses is part of the fun of rose gardening. Kate...See Morebuild out flat mirror section to line up with med cabinet
Comments (4)sloyd - yes, I think you are right about building out the plywood. Though think we need to worry about an edge on the bottom. At least the glass guy that was out here already said that glue is not enough for holding up the mirror, need something on bottom (I'm sure clips would work but think a ledge could kind of disappear.) horsenemisis - the details for my inspiration picture definitely explain there is a flat piece of mirror between two separate med cabinets. that's what makes it so great since this isn't obvious looking at it. I agree - the shim edges don't need to be exposed though the only way to open the cabinets is by putting fingers on edge - nothing to grab very well. But this is a separate problem and I'm checking out some other hardware that may help with this. And I think you may be right about there not needing to be a shelf (scratch what I wrote to sloyd) - If my contractor (not the glass installer) agrees, we may go with that assumption. Like your idea about the white boards - my contractor is more of a tile guy than a carpenter so glad to have more details on this. enduring - priming and finishing in advance sounds like a good thing for me to ask my contractor. Thanks everyone. Funny how I panic about these kind of problems which though real turn out to have some kind of solution so far. This forum really helps with my "peace of mind". Thanks again....See MoreHow to strengthen beam in order to remove posts
Comments (18)"which is by code larger than I'd like, around 30x30"" Without an actual load calculation he better put in a larger footing. If you go looking at beam tables you will not find any for large span steel or even wood beams that do not require a load value to be computed. The actual sizing of beams ONCE THE LOAD IS KNOWN is pretty simple. Computing the load is always the issue. This is a perfect example of GOGO (Garbage In, Garbage Out). Make a mistake in the load calculation and the beam will be sized incorrectly, and regretfully the most common error is to UNDERSIZE by missing loads. Just as an example, to size a door header in a two story house requires accounting for the second floor loads above the header, and the roof loads since they are transfered to the wall also. The load values are done at the design values of 30 PSF live + 10 PSF dead for the second floor, while the roof load includes the roof itself AND the snow loads and sometimes even wind loads, pitch corrections may also be required....See MoreBeam structure to support two joists
Comments (4)John, In the first picture you have the right idea of a temporary supporting structure while you do the work. If the existing joists are 2x8's then you should double or even triple the ones that will stay on either side of the proposed opening (known as "trimmer joists"). Of course the span of the existing joists will dictate whether you need to double or triple the trimmer joists. The trimmer joists will have to be supported on both ends to carry the weight of the load. The ends of the trimmer joists nearest the brick wall can have a 2x ledger board attached to the brick to provide support but should also have a number of 2x's layed flat against the brick under the ledger from floor to ledger to give additional proper support to the ledger. The "cross beam" also known as a "header" or "girder" should be a double 2x8 header supported by joist hangers. This should eliminate the need for any supporting posts underneath giving you a true clear area. Hopefully this helps........See MoreHolly Robinson
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