I posted after seeing only your first photo. After looking at the newer pictures and close ups I rescind my first statement. If those canes are coming from ABOVE the graft, which they appear to be, they are probably Tropicana. They are just new young canes. I would wait and see if they bloom before doing anything else with it. In order to post more than one picture at a time you have to put your photos on some kind of photo hosting site like Photobucket, Shutterfly or Picture Trail. Then from there you would copy and paste the HTML code into your post. You can post as many as you want that way.

Thanks hort, I really appreciate the feedback. If it is incompatibility, then the graft seems likely to eventually fail. I had a matte over around the base, with mulch on top to cut off all light to the rootstock hoping that would curtail suckering...... NOPE! Pulled it up yesterday, and there is a full ring around the base of pale white suckers from the RS looking for a way out to the light. I'm seriously considering allowing one of them to grow at this point and taking my chances on getting a female tree. Even if it turns out to be female, other than my two dwarfs, there are NO other Ginkgo ANYWHERE near, so pollination would not be likely. If I did this, I could leave the current graft in place and keep my female significant other counterpart happy, while something more satisfying came up. I know she likes it even though I'm not so happy. I also thought about trying to find a place for another one. On a side note, do you have an opinion as to which cultivar develops yellow fall color the earliest? I'm subject to early and late freezes in my location, and I'm thinking that an earlier turning selection (if I replace this one) might be a wise consideration. Thanks in advance, Arktrees

You're welcome, Lyna! Yes ma'am, each one HAS its own personality. It's observing them then determining what other "personalities" you want to mate them to that's part of the fun of breeding. If your cuttings are rotting, they're too wet. Whether that's due to too heavy soil, watering them too frequently or having too high humidity due to covering them, something is keeping them too wet, so they rot. If they shrivel, they're usually drying out. I'd not had success rooting roses in my new climate until I ran across the wrapping method, which I termed "Burrito Method" and detailed on my blog below. Like all the other methods, it requires tweaking to get it set just right for your specific conditions, but once you get the hang of it, the method works! A few months ago, I received bud wood of a rose I'd sought, from a lovely lady in Northern California. The wood was quite thin and I didn't know what exactly I could do with it. I had stocks rooted, so I tried budding it, then took what wasn't really suitable and tried a modified method of rooting. It was actively growing, and it was warm, so the wrapping method wouldn't work. I treated them as I would any cuttings, then planted them very deeply in seed starter mix, in gallon cans and placed them under other potted roses where they would have higher humidity, some filtered sun, but protection from the real heat and extreme sun. Most failed, but a few ARE rooted! Many of the buds also failed, but some are remaining green after a few months and appear to be successful. I figured by planting them deep, so most of the cutting length was immersed in cool, damp soil, they wouldn't dry out. It's what I do with callused cuttings out of the wraps, and it works perfectly with them. With only an inch or so of cutting poking out of the soil, and only a leaf or two remaining on them, they could provide some photosynthesis to help carry them along until roots formed. Once it begins raining, I will transplant them from their communal pots, lifting them to the level I want them to grow. Until then, I'll let them continue forming roots. The rains will help to harden them off so they won't be lost to being subjected to too high heat, too brilliant sun and too dry conditions too quickly. I'm also getting ready to break the tops of the root stocks so the foliage will remain attached to help keep them fed, but much of the sap flow will be interrupted so it is directed into the inserted buds, forcing them to begin growing. I use both the traditional "T" budding method and Burling's Chip Budding Method on several different root stocks so I hedge my bet with whatever I have and want to insure takes. Using several methods helps spread the risk of loss so chances of success improve dramatically. I use VI IXL, Cardinal Hume and Sequoia's Pink Clouds. I should also obtain some VI Dr. Huey and VI Ragged Robbin. I had the Ragged Robin VI from the Heritage Rose Garden, but lost it. I also have Dr. Manner's VI Fortuniana. It's finally put out enough thicker growth to provide some decent stocks next spring, so I'll probably start messing with budding to it then. If I have material I want to reproduce in the appropriate window here for rooting; I know it roots OK and grows OK own root; and it is of the appropriate condition for wrapping, I will wrap it. If it's summer, hence hotter (too hot for wrapping) and the material is actively growing, I'll try budding it. Whatever remains which isn't suitable for budding, I'll strike as cuttings to see if something works. But, if you wait until you have what you've been looking for, forever, to learn how to make the methods you want to use, work, you're guaranteed to fail. Murphy assures that. It's like waiting until the day before you take your world cruise to buy your new, elaborate camera you have absolutely no idea how to use. You're doomed. Rooting and budding are about equally as easy to learn. The hardest part is determining you are NOT going to allow it to overwhelm you. If it doesn't work, don't get frustrated. Put on your diagnostician's hat, figure out WHY it didn't so you can fix the problems, then get back on that horse to show it who's boss. Kim Here is a link that might be useful: Wrapping cuttings

always when cell division takes place, there is a small, small, chance that a DNA error takes place. Many of the DNA errors are lethal, but occasional errors take place that are not lethal. These errors might not be expressed, or the error might take place in a critical spot of the gene, which for instance, determines the color of the flower, the petal shape, number of petals, almost anything you can think of - including also the morphology of the leaves, and canes, prickles, etc. could also affect the hardiness of the new cane. you are interested if the mutation is in the "bud" part of the bush, not a mutation in the rootstock. the rootstock will send up suckers, that are obviously different from the bud, because the rootstock has different genetics. a sucker, and a sport, are two different things. a sport is always a mutation, and the sucker, is (practically) never a mutation. since a sucker involves cell division, it is possible for it to mutate, so very very rarely you can have a sucker sport. if you are growing bushes that are "own root", then these kind of bushes will send up canes from the roots which will bear flowers that you are interested in. some strains grown on their own roots will send out new root shoots, and the bush can spread this way, by "suckering". In this case, this can be a good thing, and something you want. the root shoots, also, can mutate, and it is possible for a very hardy, or slightly hardier root to arise, by mutation, as well. or a less hardy one, for that matter. I also agree with rosesnpots, I prefer to buy own root roses, or buy roses that are out of patent protection, so I can cultivate my own, either by layering (easy), or cuttings(not quite as easy, but not so hard either).