My Swanstone tub/shower surround is pictured in the thread kitchenkrazed posted and we are still really happy with it adn how easy it is to maintain. Our contractor gutted the room (removing all old tile) down to the supports to reinstall new drywall (and greenboard--not sure what name of that is) so the Swanstone kit is installed on to supports based on the installation instructions that came with the kit. I suggest meet with a remodeling contractor for a quote just to remove the tile and install a Swanstone kit that doesn't adhere to old tile. Swanstone has a communications contact named Jenny Baur who helped me with two big questions -- new color selections and a big delivery issue. She was so helpful that I later emailed the company to commend her customer service. Why don't you email her with your concerns and questions. I suggest you ask what are the recommended preparation steps for that kit you are considering. Maybe she can email a pdf to you of the installation instructions. And ask if they recommend this for long term quality/moisture control issues. Her information is Jenny Baur jbaur@swanstone.com

Just curious...how'd you come up with 31 sqft for tiling to the ceiling? For a typical tub surround: -poly sheeting: $10 -Half-inch thick Tile backer board, 4 sheets: $60 -Roll of mesh alkali-resistant tape: $7.50 -Tile: Name your price. Say $5 a foot for grins, for 60sqft it's $300. -One bag highly modified thinset $30 -One bag Grout $15 -Caulk $15 So materials, rounding way up, about $150 not counting the tile. Tools? -Stapler to staple up the poly sheet to the studs. -Utility knife and blades: You can score and cut the tile backer board like Hardiebacker with a utility knife. You can even cut holes with a utility knife, score the perimeter with the knife and pop out the center with a hammer. -Stapler to staple up the poly sheet to the studs. Hammer/nails: to nail up the backer board. You could use screws, but you'd need a drill with driver bit. To cut the tile: The box stores will do it for you on a per cut basis. I have no idea what they charge. For for basic tile you can use a score and snap cutter. They can be had for $25-$50. Or you can buy a cheap wetsaw at the box stores for $50. Or buy one on craigslist then resell it when you are done. So...$50 let;s say. Always good to have tile nippers, $20. Have your plumbing fall on grout lines instead of in the middle of a tile and you can nip a hole instead of having to drill a hole. To mix and spread the thinset: -bucket -margin trowel: $7.50 Yup. To hand mix the thinset and grout. The thinset, mix maybe a third of a bag at a time. Pace yourself. Or you can buy a paddle if you have a low-speed drill that has the torque to spin it. -notched trowel: $5, 1/4" x 1/4" to spread the thinset. To Grout: -Grout float: $10 -Grout Sponges: 2- or 3-multi-pack for $5 Basic hand tools, about $50. Add $50 for a tile cutter, so total tools is about $100. Materials: $150 Tile: $300 @ $5 a ft Tools: $100 Total, about $550 Rough guess.

This is so helpful, everybody! I realize I should have specified that I have a 9' ceiling in the bathroom, so it's taller than either the length (almost 8') or width (almost 7') of the room. That's part of the reason I don't want to run tile all the way up to the ceiling. I think it would look overwhelmingly tall and out of proportion. House Vixen, I'm having trouble seeing what you're describing as running bond – unless you mean in the field tile itself. I do rather like that pattern used with square tiles. (I confess I'm getting a little tired of rectangular subway tile absolutely everywhere, which is not to say there aren't a lot of bathrooms that use it that are both period and gorgeous.) House Vixen, btw I love the baseboard+floor border further set off by red pencil liner in that yellow bath.

I don’t have anything to offer but I’m wondering - before the base was attached or put into place, did you happen to set the surround on top of it just to verify that the pegs & holes lined up on all sides? One would assume they did if it was all predrilled but RTA furniture pieces are often just a bit off.