Draw what you are describing and you will get the answer yourself.

Normally 4'-1" (stud to stud) is the narrowest I make a hallway. Comfort of use should be considered.

When I drew it up, it came to 37.5" (32+2.25+2.25+.5+.5), but because that's not an answer I've seen anywhere and because I might be missing something (besides comfort of use), I'm not all that confident that's correct (especially with it being a pocket door). Also not sure having no reveal or unfinished wallboard creates a problem. Regarding comfort of use, I'm comfortable with the 32" door and the 37.5" stud to stud hallway width, as it's a very short hallway

Rough framing: 32" door = 32" + 2" rough opening + 3" + 3" (King&Jack stud each side) = 40".

Finished clear width = 39", not including protrusion of baseboard.

Even if the King&Jack stud is not there (e.g. perpendicular wall intersecting the middle of the 64" pocket door frame) doesn't affect the width of the space that should be given.

Of course, as mentioned comfort of the hall for elbow room to maneuver to open doors, the length of hall, other doors, etc should always be considered for final hallway design width.

Is it possible you may be in a wheelchair for some reason for a period of time?

(hint: yes)

I would also check the minimum hallway width required in your area.

Where does the door go? Do you have 64" to 72" of clea wall total, in that wall at the end for the door + the pocket. No outlets, ducts, wiring plumbing or other obstructions?

No obstructions and enough room in pocket wall--thank you for reminding me to check that because we made some subsequent changes and needed to re-check. Minimum hallway per code is 36" finished, so we'll be ok there. Coincidentally, we had someone in a wheel chair before and used a 32" pocket door. It may not meet ADA requirements, but we didn't have a problem. It actually worked better than a regular (not pocket) 36" door we had in a different room.

Added in a hurry. In the detail 38 should be 37.5 and code min. should be 37.

A little confused-- you're building a hallway based on the size of door? Why? Decide what size hallway you want (as Mark said, at least 4'1") and then install the appropriate door. They come in all different sizes and are not that expensive.

Apparently the OP assumed the width of the hall would be determined by the door size and casing trim rather than the min. code width.
I would add a few inches to avoid problems but it’s pointless to suggest a wider hall if we don’t know what it serves.

Thanks all.

We'd already decided to use a 32" pocket door., as It worked well previously for someone in the house who had a wheel chair--even though it wasn't ADA standard. The 36" regular door they used previously didn't work as well due to opening and closing, and we don't have enough wall for anything more than a 32" pocket door. Needing as much room in the adjacent rooms as possible, the question then became what is the minimum hallway width necessary--while still complying with the building codes and using at least 2 1/4" casing--that can accommodate the 32" pocket door.

We are set on a 38.5" hallway (before wallboard/drywall). Near as I can tell by the various responses, it will meet residential code of 36" finished (though not ADA) and still allow for 2 1/4" casing (though with little to know reveal). It will certainly be snug, but the old hallway with the 32" pocket door was even more narrow and worked just fine.

Really appreciate all this help!

*little to "no" reveal (typo)

This is a remodeling?

Those dimensions will result in a finished hall width of 37" and the space between the casing trim and the wall will be approximately 5/8".

I suspect you are not subtracting the depth of the 3/8" stops and the /8" space needed to allow removal of the door which totals approximately 1/2" each side for a total of 1".

But that 1" will leave some room for error or different pocket door hardware.

Thanks again! It's sort of a remodel. Large tree took out section of house. Foundation is good, but can't expand due to side lot setback (and it would be costly). So trying to make better use of the space available using the existing foundation. The hallway will actually be slightly wider than before. The original 32" pocket door cheated a little by not going quite all the way into the pocket, so the wheel chair barely fit through it, though it got easier with practice . Adjacent rooms would be slightly smaller, but an updated layout, technology advancements since the original construction, and maybe even some creative stud-turning around a walk-in closet (if it flies) should allow for a nice overall improvement. Considered cantilever but the side lot setback wouldn't allow it (and I generally dislike them anyway). Not a huge fan of pocket doors, but gonna have to use a few. Not sure how much more they cost in parts and labor than a regular door, so if anybody wants to "brace" me for the incremental out of "pocket" material and labor costs of pocket doors relative to regular doors, I'm all ears!

Would have to see drawings or pics to fully understand what you are doing. But sounds like you have your own plan and you're moving on it. I'm just happy you are not using a barn door.

The door panel can be 36" wide with a 35 1/2" clear opening if you get rid of the jambs.

If you don't mind the smaller opening, use a standard pocket door frame to create a "pullman" door where 4" of the door protrudes when open and has a pull handle on each face making it easier to open and close.