Help designing attic office set up - skylights
Hannah Koenker
last year
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Patricia Colwell Consulting
last yearPaul F.
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Total Nube! Need a set up for the office!
Comments (8)Dave needs to be careful what he says about LEDs because he sells them on his website, and it would contravene Gardenweb policies to promote them too explicity ;) Light is Light is Light If this was true then LEDs would be useless. They produce less light per watt of electricity than fluorescents or HID lights. In the future, they show the promise of being more efficient than the fluorescents, and this has been demonstrated in labs, but they aren't available to you and me yet. Remember this when you see claims about low energy use and low heat output, LED lamps use somewhat more energy and produce somewhat more heat than a fluorescent producing the same amount of light. The reason that the units seen for sale use so little energy, typically 2W-6W per lamp, is because they produce very little light ;) LEDs have several useful properties. They are light (don't weigh much!), almost unbreakable, last a long time, produce a very directional light output, and produce an almost monochromatic light. The long life may be useful in a plant light, but this is where you have to start being careful about claims from people selling LEDs. The typical number you will see quoted is 100,000 hours. In practice this is meaningless. LEDs do not fail, they just get dimmer over time while continuing to draw power. The 100,000 hours is some time that someone in a lab found they were still getting light out of their LED. In practice LEDs become too dim to be useful as a plant light after as little as 5,000 hours. Other LEDs can still be producing good light output for as much as 50,000 hours. Until the sellers show you lumen maintenance curves for their lamps, you should be cautious. The directional light output is quite useful in a compact plant light, one intended to light a limited number of plants, but you can get the same result with a reflector and a conventional light source. Again the LED unit can be very compact because it doesn't need an extra reflector. The main thing that makes LEDs viable as plant lights at this point is the monochromatic light output. Plants use light at some wavelengths, red and blue, between 2 and 5 times more efficiently as green light. An LED system can be designed to produce only those wavelengths and so maximise the effectiveness of the light on the plants. In fact they produce mostly the red light because it takes less energy to produce one red photon than it does to produce one blue photon, and then they add in a little blue light which is required to make the plants grow healthily. It isn't clear exactly how much more power-efficient this can make an LED lamp compared to a fuorescent and it seems to vary depending on the plant, but claims of 33 times better which you will see are bogus. That number may come from comparing an LED system to an incandescent bulb with a bunch of best-case assumptions, I really don't know. I think you will find that you can get equivalent growth with an LED lamp for about half the power of a fluorescent, possibly as little as a fifth the power in some cases. The takeup of LED lighting by commercial growers can tell you a lot about when these are the preferred lighting system. Takeup is essentially zero because they are not cost-effective. A very few systems are in place in Japan, and are claimed to be cost-effective over other lighting systems, where both space and electricity are very expensice and the setup cost probably a lot lower than most other countries. So, use LEDs if space, weightm or robustness are issues, they were used for space shuttle experiments for those reasons. You may also choose them if the lowest possible electricity use is vital. Perhaps the design or appearance may be preferred, my own home-built light setup is hardly attractive! Set those factors against the very high initial cost, several hundred dollars for even the most basic system....See MoreWhich white shade to paint attic office...almost no natural light
Comments (8)Depends on what type of white that you want. If you want a crisp white w/ no undertones of any color but is still rich, bright and vibrant w/o being cold I'd highly recommend SW High Reflectance White. The paint guy described it as pure white w/ extra 'oomph'. I recommend viewing the chip on the SW white collection handout. You can see how it stands out amongst all of the other whites. SW HRF is typically used as a base to add other tints to. Since there are no tints this color picks up and reflects back large blocks of other colors quite easily. I hated it in my hallway where it turned pink becuase of my stained glass window. I love it in my office becuase there are no other outside color influences - just blues in the form of flowers and pillows. Here it is in my office. I chose it for this room becuase I wanted the wall color to stand out and hold it's own combined w/ all of the black and white.: Here is SW Pure White in my LR at one point which has a NE exposure and low light. I had a hard time getting the right white becuase of all of the green foliage outside of the window. This was just a very soft white w/ no yellow or creamy tones. Really liked it a lot! Please don't judge me on the sad silk floral whatever in the vases - I was just trying to visually figure something out!:...See MoreFinishing up "attic master" remodel, looking for bathroom pointer
Comments (4)"1st question, since I have bought CBU for the walls but all the how-tos for kerdi have them using it on sheet rock. Im still leaning toward CBU, but figured it was worth asking. " Good instincts to use CBU. For several reasons I recommend you stick with stick with the CBU. Here's a Kerdi over CBU ditty, it might help if you've never used Kerdi before. 2) "2 The ceiling in the shower. Initially, i was going to tile the ceiling, but my wife thinks it would look like a cave...I had several people suggest to me PVC Beadboard. Any other thoughts? " If a beadboard ceiling will fit the style, you can go in that direction. If you want beadboard but want to avoid the sterile look of PVC, how about teak beadboard? Or a teak plank ceiling. Wood can go well with marble/travertine. Then you can always fake wood on the ceiling with wood-look tile. Or go for a lighter look with glass tile on the ceiling, though plain glass can look cold and modern. Of those I listed, I'd consider teak boards. Natural stone and a natural wood? Why not? 3) L/1100 is plenty good for travertine. But you have to consider deflection in two directions; deflection along the length of the joist (your L/1100), and the often overlooked across deflection fo the plywood that spans the joist bays, in your case, across the 19.2" space between the joists. I recommend you consider two layers of plywood (3/4" subfloor and then 1/2" underlayment if able. If not 1/2", then 3/8" minimum. Ditra (or equivalent) over that. Then tile. Large format travertine demands a protective floor beneath it. 4) Your last photo shows a 1/4" thick to 3/4" thick sloped bed of "sandmortar and membrane". I presume "sandmortar" is deck mud? Mud generally requires a 1-1/4" thickness at the drain. You can go thinner, some guys ust an admix and go 1", some push hard to 3/4" thick. . But going to 1/4" thick, it may not provide a durable base to the shower; cracks, etc. Deck mud just doesn't have any structural integrity when placed that thin. Have you considered QuickSlope or one if its derivatives to establish your slope. I mention QS because it pretty much feathers down to nothing. I think it's an 1/8" thick at the drain end, it's honeycomb structure gives the bed structural integrity. which fits your low-profile requirements. Going hybrid? It can be done. But I generally recommend staying within a company's product line and avoiding "hybrid showers" unless the hybrid version has been warranted, ie, Laticrete's Hydroban membrane with Schluter's Kerdi Drain. Enough for now. Got to go. I'll try to check in tomorrow...Oh, and I'm glad I didn't have to do that drywall. Fun fun fun!!...See MoreHelp design Home Office in small windowless attic!!
Comments (45)Before purchasing any furniture, figure out the rooms needed uses & best furniture placement to get most function. Make a list of measured use areas, then get items. Get extra decor after placement configured. Floorplan Placement Ideas. Option 1...See MoreHannah Koenker
last yearBarbara Almandarz
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last yearRedRyder
last yearHannah Koenker
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last yearHannah Koenker
last yearHannah Koenker
last yearlisedv
last yearPaul F.
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last yearHannah Koenker
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