This is an issue for me, too. We've finally (after 25 years here!!) got the front porch off in December. And we will NOT be replacing it. But I do intend to reuse the substantially intact columns, entablature, frieze, roof and deck framing etc. on a porch on the other side of the house - north side where there won't be any loss of light. Can't believe I suffered through 24 winters in the near darkness in my first floor due to that damn porch. Removing it made a tremendous, and completely positive change in my experience of my old house. I spent way to much time agonizing about altering an "old" element of the house. I was hoping that when we excavated we'd find it was a later addition. Alas, there it turned out to be no evidence to support that, and no evidence that the parts of the vertical wall framing that had been covered by the thickness of the porch roof had ever been covered by siding. So the porch must have been installed before it was first sided. By the time we could see this, however, we had already removed a good chunk of the roof decking and ceiling and it was nearly dark. The next morning I stumbled downstairs and I had sun streaming in through my front windows in my sitting room and dining room. It was around the winter solstice when, as you know sun is so precious. I couldn't get over it. When my DH asked for a decision about whether to continue, or not, I just said let's get it down. So there, I did it. I tore off and orginal, important element of my antique house - a half-height, but full-facade, Greek revival porch. And I am not the least bit sorry. But I did salvage everything and will allay any lingering guilt by re-erecting it on the back. What were they thinking when the blocked all that light since 1849? But the far edge of my decking is unsound, too. I have considered making the new porch narrower. I was hoping to find new replacement material, but it sounds as though I'll be out of luck. So my fall back plan is this: put the replaced (new material) section inboard, next to the house and install the salvaged floor boards turned around so the old, formerly protected parts will now be on the weather edge, and the seam between the two will be deep under the porch roof. That butt joint will be a place for development of problems in the long run (and with houses as old as ours, the long is run everything.) Therefore, the drier it stays, the better. I may also turn the salvaged boards upside down as 160 + years of use have worn out the grain a bit, but the undersides are still fresh. Also the old face nail holes would be less visible. I realize this will put the "seam" between the two surfaces in a somewhat more prominent place, but considering that I plan to paint it, and normally have a big door mat and an old settle against the wall of the house, I think it will be OK, and mostly hidden. What choice do we have, anyway? No way would I want to think I was using any freshly harvested old-growth Doug fir. Nor do I feel comfortable with any of the tropical hardwoods (primarily teaks), notwithstanding the "certification" system. I considered using one of the fake outdoor flooring materials (i.e. Trex). Can't go there for a flooring surface that I would want to walk on in barefeet. Though I do have a couple of pieces in very damp place in my spring house and I've been satisfied with them. L.

Your best bet would be to call a concrete construction contractor or a pool construction contractor. I looked at your pool picture on the other thread. If you had less than 400sq/ft I'd charge 15+-per sq/ft, and if you had around 750sq/ft I'd be around 11+-. This is a job where I look more at the amount of the total invoice than I do at the unit pricing. I'd want 4500-5000 on a small 300+- deck, around 7500 for a mid sized 700+-, and 10000 if it was a deck around 1000 square. This would be a demo, haul-off, and re-pour quote. My area is SE Texas, and our prices may be lower than your area. I hope this helps. See ya, Kelly

Ipe: Natural dense grain, semi water resistant naturally, wood that will go gray if left untreated. Original brown color will stay with annual treatment. Does not splinter easily. Does not get unusually hot in the sun. Can have a mold problem if incorrect cleaning/sealing products/procedures are used. Availible in many sizes and can be used as framing and decking. Grain is hard enough to be hard on saw blades or other woodworking tools. Saw dust can be left. Often the most expensive and requires the most maintenance. Properly designed and built deck looks expensive. Composite: Some good, some not so good, some terrible. Gets unusually hot in full sun. Can degrade in direct sun. Can get mildew and need frequent cleaning. Pressure washing can degrade the material. Cannot be used for framing(as a rule). Wood framing would need to be cladded to hide the wood, adding extra expense. Can be machined with normal woodworking tools. Saw debris has to be removed as it will not degrade naturally. More expensive than PT, but only needs occasional cleaning if it does not degrade. Properly designed and built deck looks modern and clean. Pressure treated wood: The specific chemical treatment has a lot to do with staining/dying/finishing. ACQ(the replacement for CCA) is greenish. The newer YellaWood is light yellow. Staining YellaWood is easier than staining ACQ because of the original color. ACQ can be very wet, necessitating a 6 month or so drying out before staining/finishing. The wood is pine/spruce/etc. and can splinter easily. Special screws/nails have to be used(should be quite common now). Can dry rot and wet rot. Can crack or warp in direct sun. Can be used for framing and decking. Needs occasional maintenance and is usually the least expensive. Properly designed and built deck looks good, but built with PT wood(least modern/expensive looking). Choosing the right material is dependent on location, dedication to required maintenance, sun exposure and intended use. Composite is better in cool/cold/rainy climates since it is more moisture resistant and does not swell/shrink as much as wood. It does not require as much ongoing maintenance. Not good in hot climates as it can get painfully hot in direct sun. Ipe looks better than PT, but requires more maintenance to retain color. And is more expensive. PT works well anywhere with minimal maintenance, but can splinter with hard use.

Pictures of the area in question would help. But for best results and longevity of the deck, removing the pavers will be optimum. Of course this advice is obviously sight unseen.